What ammo should I use in my Garand?

[RavenVT100]

I'm going to order my CMP Garand tomorrow. I want to make sure that I can feed it what it likes.

Given that .30-0-6 is one of the most common .30 rounds ever, which of the many varieties and brands should I go for? Is the Garand like the SKS, which will slam-fire if not fed ammo with hard primers? Or can you shoot the softer commercial primers with the Garand? What brand do most recreational shooters prefer?

I'd also like some tips on how to lube this thing. My SKS seems to do ok with FP-10, but people tell me that the Garand does better with some actual Grease. What should I use, TW-25B? Or some other sort of grease?

Thanks!

 

[chickenfried]

Since you're already ordering a rifle from the cmp. Might as well order some ammo from them.

Item ID: 405
Description: M2 Ball-Surplus 30.06 Lake Cty 960 rds/cs
This ammunition is packaged 20 rounds per box, 12 boxes per
can, 4 cans per case (960 rounds per case). Cases we have
opened have all been LC-68 to 72. Sales are by case
lot only. $192.00 per case + $38.00 S&H per case.
The bullet attracts a magnet. Ammo is delinked M2 ball.
NON-CORROSIVE


Stock: 10+


Price: $192.00

 

[RavenVT100]

Can I include that order on the same page as the rifle when I send my rifle order into CMP south, or do I need to order that seperately from CMP north?

Oh yeah, and does only the last page of my order form need to be notarized? Thanks.

 

[Mulliga]

The CMP ammo is the best choice. Pretty much the only other cheap milsurp .30-06 left is the Korean stuff, which may or may not be corrosive (the rounds in boxes are supposed to be clean, whereas the ones on Garand clips are supposedly corrosive - I'd treat them both as corrosive).

 

[George S.]

As far as "types", military surplus M2 ball ammo is the best ammo to shoot in a Garand. The powder in military loads were selected with the gas operating system in mind. Some commercial loads will have powder that burns too fast and will increase gas pressures to where it will cause problems.

I use Korean surplus ammo with a "PS" headstamp on the case base. Most all of the PS stuff will work just fine. Korean ammo with a "KA" headstamp is considered to be corrosive and extra cleaning steps will be necessary. Salts in the primer will corrode the rifle and the best way to stop that is to soak the bolt face and chamber with Windex with Ammonia then follow with a normal cleaning.

Here's a web page with some interesting info on M2 ball ammo:
http://www.100megsfree4.com/airground/ammo/ammo.htm

I use Militech-1 grease on my M1 and it seems to work fine. Go to www.militech1.com where you can get a free sample.
Some folks will use regular automotive grease

 

[Bridger]

Well, keeping in mind that I don't own a Garand yet...CMP is taking care of that in a few weeks hopefully.

Anyway, I have been told to use M2 ball spec ammo in the Garand. Some of the 180 grain hunting stuff and other commercial 30-06 is loaded to pressures that might harm the operating rod. I believe that the Federal American Eagle brand and UMC brand 150 grain FMJ ammo is m2 spec though. I'm also interested in what else is recommended though, especially if I want to use the M1 Garand for hunting ever.

 

[chickenfried]

You can include the ammo order on the same form as the rifle. You're right only the last page with the header "Certification" needs to be notarized.

Can I include that order on the same page as the rifle when I send my rifle order into CMP south, or do I need to order that seperately from CMP north?
Oh yeah, and does only the last page of my order form need to be notarized?

 

[Steve in PA]

Primers- I reload for all my guns, and for my M1 I use CCI 200 primers (regular large rifle) and in the 2 years that I've been reloading for it, I've never had a problem, no slam fires, etc.

Ammo- Again because I reload I don't use factory ammo. Federal Amercian Eagle, Winchester white box, Remington UMC all are ok in the M1.

Lube- I use Lubriplate, which according to some is "old school", but it works for me. Some things in the M1 get greased, others you use oil. For this I use RemOil.

 

[Dienekes]

Sounds like you might want to get a copy of Hatcher's "Book of the Garand", or perhaps Duff's intro book. Kuhnhausen's book is excellent but gets very technical real fast. Check out the Culver Shooting Page over at www.jouster. com and the Garand site for lots of good info.

Best to stick with bullet weights under 180 grains, and basic M2 equivalent.

For lube, use grease in the appropriate places. Lubriplate 130-A is the original stuff, but any current auto chassis lube works fine. I have been using Militec grease of late but that is just an affectation.

Slam fires were unheard of in the military. The usual cause is sloppy handloading; high primers, improper sizing, possibly very worn rifle. Proper precautions make a slam-fire very unlikely. Trim your brass, size it properly, and gauging brass and ammo pays off. Not single-loading rounds and letting the bolt slam closed on it full force is a good policy. Load from a clip or "sled". CCI makes a #34 military (hard) primer but I have fired many, many rounds of M2 equivalent ammo with standard Winchester primers in M1s.

BTW, a normal Garand in good condition *will* allow the firing pin to indent the primer very slightly when it chambers the round. To repeat, this is normal and all of mine plus my M1A do it. As usual just don't have it pointed at anything you value.

There is a lot of good info around for those old warhorses. You are about to have a lot of fun.

 

[WhoKnowsWho]

http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/ctd/product.asp?sku=CLN-956&mscssid=1TMP3WG7F43F9JKEBA34PJ30F7380CGC

One of the suggested greases is available at Cheaper than Dirt, 144 2CC cups is $10.

 

[RavenVT100]

Thanks for all the replies.

What tools should I have on hand for diassembly/cleaning of the Garand? I know there's some kind of multitool that they used specifically for the Garand; where can I find one of those?

 

[Steve in PA]

The only "specialized" tool you need is the M10 combo tool which helps in taking apart the bolt and removing the lock screw, although both can be done with other items.

I suggest you go here How to disassemble the Garand bolt for further instruction on the care, cleaning and maintenancen of the M1 Garand

 

[RavenVT100]

Since I already have an extensive collection of punches as well as a hojillion different sizes and shape screwdrivers, I'll hold off on ordering the tool. I probably don't need it.

Thanks!