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What to look for in a gun safe
- Thread starter RM
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There are very few "professional" residential burglars who will bring tools for a big job with them. IMHO safes are oversold.
All you need is something that will take time and big tools to open. That should cause them to seek easier prey. Treadlock used to sell really good gun cabinets (not "safes") for about $300. I have two of them bolted to the wall. That's really all you need.
Some "safes" are just gun cabinets with combination locks. You should be able to find one for under $600. Check these out: http://www.thesportsauthority.com/s...x=11&searchId=10324096743&page=1&pageBucket=0
All you need is something that will take time and big tools to open. That should cause them to seek easier prey. Treadlock used to sell really good gun cabinets (not "safes") for about $300. I have two of them bolted to the wall. That's really all you need.
Some "safes" are just gun cabinets with combination locks. You should be able to find one for under $600. Check these out: http://www.thesportsauthority.com/s...x=11&searchId=10324096743&page=1&pageBucket=0
BluesBear
member
Sam's Club has a nice Winchester safe in the $600 range.
I don't know where you are but here in Washington state, we don't have to pay sales tax on gun safes.
If you have your guns listed on your homeowners or renters insurance you'll pay for the safe in just a few years with the insurance savings.
I don't know where you are but here in Washington state, we don't have to pay sales tax on gun safes.
If you have your guns listed on your homeowners or renters insurance you'll pay for the safe in just a few years with the insurance savings.
HankL
Member
Size, size and more size. 8^)
Size is important. You'll be suprised by what other stuff gets put in the safe. (For example, I remove my hard drive and put it in the safe whenever I go on a trip.)
Actual armor is important. Those basic "gun cabinets" can be cut through by a guy with a hammer and chisel in less than a minute.
Weight is important. I have seen guys take a 300 lb floor jack over an 8' wall. The only time I ever saw a big gun safe taken they used a tow truck and pulled it through the side of the house. (Make sure you are placing it on a section of floor that can handle the weight.)
Fire proofing is not so important. If your house burns it will exceed most fire ratings several times over.
Electronic locks cause the majority of all locksmith calls. Avoid them.
A second (key) lock is nice.
My experience is that the multi spoked handles are a pain.
Actual armor is important. Those basic "gun cabinets" can be cut through by a guy with a hammer and chisel in less than a minute.
Weight is important. I have seen guys take a 300 lb floor jack over an 8' wall. The only time I ever saw a big gun safe taken they used a tow truck and pulled it through the side of the house. (Make sure you are placing it on a section of floor that can handle the weight.)
Fire proofing is not so important. If your house burns it will exceed most fire ratings several times over.
Electronic locks cause the majority of all locksmith calls. Avoid them.
A second (key) lock is nice.
My experience is that the multi spoked handles are a pain.
ARperson
Member
The biggest risk to your firearms is not from burglarly but from fire, hence the choice of a safe is paramount. Yes, you're correct in that a well made safe is likely to deter the crook and persuade him to look for easier targets (like that glass-fronted wood beauty the old-time next door has).
Because of this you will want to pay close attention to the fire rating for your safe. It's construction will also play a role in this. The high school locker-style (you know the one with the cheap thin bendable sheet metal, the kind the idiot liked to dent with his head) is not what you want for fire protection.
If you're interested, I'll send you some info on fire ratings and what to look for in a safe.
Because of this you will want to pay close attention to the fire rating for your safe. It's construction will also play a role in this. The high school locker-style (you know the one with the cheap thin bendable sheet metal, the kind the idiot liked to dent with his head) is not what you want for fire protection.
If you're interested, I'll send you some info on fire ratings and what to look for in a safe.
Thanks, AR. My email address is [email protected]. I would appreciate some additional information on this subject.
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