When to full length resize?

[jski]

I’ve read and heard what appears to be contradictory advice on full length resizing. I just bought Lapua brass for my Triple Deuce for my recently inherited a Ruger #1. I have just received my RCBS dies for the aforementioned cartridge.

Now the question is: Do I full length resize the virgin brass? I’ve read this is the 1 time when you full length resize your brass. After the brass has been fired, it’s now form fitted to your gun’s chamber and doesn’t need resizing.

What’s the truth of the matter?

 

[DocRock]

Yes to resizing virgin brass. Always. Then trim to uniform length and deburr/uniform the flash holes. I would anneal as well, but if not set up for that, no worries.

Then you have options. If you only have the one rifle in 222, then neck sizing only is an option. You will likely get several firings (how many is several depends on chamber and loads, but say, 4-6) before a crush fit may become a crunch fit. Then full length resize again (and anneal), bumping the shoulder back a few thousands. If you have more than one rifle in 222, and you only want to neck size, then you need to find a way to segregate brass, so that each rifle has its own. Otherwise full length size it all with the shoulder set to bump a few thousands off the shorter of the two.

If you are loading predominantly for paper in one rifle, then neck sizing only may make the best sense for you. If loading for Prairie Dog Town decimation, FLS to ensure rapid, consistent feeding and extraction is probably better. If a mix, and not segregating, probably FLS every time.

 

[troy fairweather]

You can probably get away not fl the lapua, any other brand yes. Eventually you will have to FL or at least bump the shoulder back some. The case in the no1 is very supported so unless you load hot the web area may not even need to be size much.

For the most consistent ammo guys will anneal every firing, bump the shoulder and body with a body die, then neck size.

 

[jski]

I thought Lapua brass comes annealed?

 

[troy fairweather]

I thought Lapua brass comes annealed?

It does

 

[jski]

It does

I’m assuming that’s a procedure that needs to be done only once?

 

[troy fairweather]

I’m assuming that’s a procedure that needs to be done only once?

It's common to do it every 2-3 firings, it's mostly to prevent the necks from cracking, brass work hardens to hard it cracks and can give inconsistent neck tension. Most match shooters will anneal every firing it just helps keep things consistent.

 

[Dale Alan]

I would just make sure the necks are round , no sizing needed. You can use a mandrel or by just starting the expander ball of your die to make contact .

 

[Walkalong]

I thought Lapua brass comes annealed?

It all does, part of the process.

Full length size new rifle cases? It depends really. My new Alpha 6 Dasher brass? All I did was expand the necks with the .241 expander which is my last step with prepping Dasher brass. That made the neck tension what it would be each time after that. Lapua .308? Same thing. .223 plinkers? Who cares, FL size every time to fit a gauge, shoot it until the primer pockets wear out, 8 to 12ish firings, and no issues, no internal ruts, etc. Even my "accuracy" load with all the same .223 brass and good bullets, same thing, I don't get real serious with brass unless it will be used at a match of some kind.

I am annealing my Lapua Dasher brass (fire formed 6BR) every other time. I'll likely end up doing Alpha cases the same way. Lapua .308? Same thing, anneal every other time, but it won't hurt a thing to do it every time, and you don't have to keep track. You can usually get away with three firings, so even if one gets to that, you'll be OK.

 

[Blue68f100]

FL sizing is not needed with Lapua factory new brass. But I would run a expander through to make sure all of the necks are round, no dings from shipping. Lapua brass is annealed from the factory, so not needed on the 1st firing. I'm one that anneals every time, just to keep everything in the same state of hardness.

 

[lightman]

I resize all new brass. Most likely the die will not touch the shoulder but it rounds out the dings and dents in the case neck.

I'm not a big fan of neck sizing. My limited test show very little to no improvement in case life or accuracy in a factory rifle. Most brass fails from loose primer pockets or splits in the case neck. You will eventually have to full length resize anyway. Probably somewhere around 3 or 4 firings. But to each his own.

I do neck size for my tight chambered rifles that I have to turn the case necks for. I use bushing dies with those rifles too.

 

[NMexJim]

I’m not sure I understand why you would need to F/L size new brass most especially Lapua. The most that I do with new brass is make sure the neck is the correct ID for uniform bullet tension which you can do by backing the die out and just running the expander ball through the neck (if you don’t have a mandrel). Case shoulder will not be a decent fit until you get them fire formed anyway.

Lapua is annealed. To re-anneal depends on the caliber. Brass work hardens and starts to give bolt lift problems (headspace). You can get away with more firings on small cases than you can with over-bored. My .223 never has given me a sign, but I did start to anneal anyway after 4x. My .243 won’t stand but 3x and then I see headspace issues.

I used to just neck size betweeen annealing, but you can get still get caught with the same problem you’re seeing. I’ve quit that entirely. Now, I F/L and bump the shoulder back .002. I think most folks on here are similar.

 

[jski]

I’m not sure I understand why you would need to F/L size new brass most especially Lapua. The most that I do with new brass is make sure the neck is the correct ID for uniform bullet tension which you can do by backing the die out and just running the expander ball through the neck (if you don’t have a mandrel). Case shoulder will not be a decent fit until you get them fire formed anyway.

Lapua is annealed. To re-anneal depends on the caliber. Brass work hardens and starts to give bolt lift problems (headspace). You can get away with more firings on small cases than you can with over-bored. My .223 never has given me a sign, but I did start to anneal anyway after 4x. My .243 won’t stand but 3x and then I see headspace issues.

I used to just neck size betweeen annealing, but you can get still get caught with the same problem you’re seeing. I’ve quit that entirely. Now, I F/L and bump the shoulder back .002. I think most folks on here are similar.

I’m a newbie to bottleneck rifle cartridge reloading. Lots of experience with reloading straight wall pistol cartridges though. So I’m pushing nothing about the Triple Deuce as far as reloading is concerned.

I always size my new pistol brass so I simply thought this would be advisable for bottleneck rifle brass as well? In addition, I’ve read about whether or not to full length resize and there seems to be a difference of opinions on when to full length resize.

 

[AJC1]

I’m a newbie to bottleneck rifle cartridge reloading. Lots of experience with reloading straight wall pistol cartridges though. So I’m pushing nothing about the Triple Deuce as far as reloading is concerned.

I always size my new pistol brass so I simply thought this would be advisable for bottleneck rifle brass as well? In addition, I’ve read about whether or not to full length resize and there seems to be a difference of opinions on when to full length resize.

Maybe the best discussion point for me was consistency of process. Do everything the same every time for consistant results. You plan to anneal, do it every time. When repeatability is the game it makes sense to me.