Which manual to get?

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slowr1der

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So I have a Speer reloading manual and for all of the calibers I use it says they tested it using a Winchester brand piece of brass. It says in big letters not to use any other brand of brass as it may cause higher pressures or something to that effect. 98% of the brass I have is Federal so them testing with Winchester does me no good. Is there a reloading manual that uses Federal brass in their book? I also want to reload Honardy SSTs, Federal Fusion bullets they sell now, and Speer Hot Cores. I will usually reload these in Federal brass although I have a few pieces of Winchester brass. Just not much. I plan to use Winchester primers. Any recommendations on what manual to get?
 
There have to be literally tens of thousands of variations of powder, primer, brass, and bullets for any given caliber. Odds are, you're not gonna get you exact combo unless you build it the way the book says.

Personally, I take their advice and start close to minimum and work my way up. I think that's the way most guys do it
 
The "work up" advice is commonly encountered, and is good practice.

My understanding is that most manufacturers are fairly consistent in brass thickness, so case volume for a given cartridge won't vary markedly between headstamps.

EXCEPT for military cases. The military likes to specify heavier than normal thickness, to withstand the abuse that semi- and full-auto weapons impose. Here's an example from Accurate Powder (re: .30-06 reloading) -

Shooters should exercise caution when loading military cases as the increased thickness of these cases may require charge weight reduction of up to 10%.
 
Somebody is selling winchester brass.
I have almost every manual on the market.
I use all kinds of brass.
Work from the middle up-like redneck said.
Hornady has a very good manual
Go to the powder mfrs. sites--they will send you a free( in most cases) reloading data
 
What caliber are you asking about? 308? If so, there is a huge internal difference between FC and Win brass. For example, you can safely stuff 45 grains of Varget behind a 175gr SMK in a Winchester case. If you do that with a FC case, the primer pocket will dump the primer when you extract the case, if you are able to extract it. FC 308 brass calls for a 3-4 grain reduction over Winchester. If you look at Sierrs's data, they use FC brass and you'll see lower max charges.
 
Every component change makes a difference in the load, even the lot differences changes things. The brass used is just one. Start with the min recommended load and work up with a careful eye on your brass for signs of pressure. The warnings do indicate that pressures with other brass makes have been found to vary but, they shouldn`t vary enough the base load isn`t safe. Speer states loads in mil-surp brass should be reduced by ~5% due to reduced case volume
 
I'm reloading .243 Winchester.

Can anyone that has the latest Lyman manual look and see if it lists data for Hornady 6mm (.243 Winchester) SST 95 Grain bullets? That's what I'm hoping to load. I'd be using Federal brass with Winchester primers. I don't want to buy the book and then it not have the info I need. Thanks.
 
I am new to this but I have been loading federal brass with speer data and have not had a problem. 45 acp only though. I am using winn brass on the 308.
 
The Lyman manual does not give a load for that bullet.

The Hornady manual does. They were using Hornady/Frontier brass.

The advice to start low and work up is sound, although Hornady cautions on the use of reduced loads with slow burning powders and long bullets.

H 4350 or IMR 4064 might be a good powder for this bullet.

You can get loading data online from the powder manufacturers. Usually they don't specify a brand of casing, and may just give the max load. In this case start 10% lower.
 
I believe the correct question should be which manual(s) should I get. More is better!
 
"I use it says they tested it using a Winchester brand piece of brass. It says in big letters not to use any other brand of brass as it may cause higher pressures or something to that effect."

They also say to start low and only work up....etc. Done intelligently that takes care of any potential differences in any thing at all.

Contrary to some fixed beliefs, ALL published reloading data is generic to the powder type and bullet weight. The greatest change any of us can make to the book makers info is the weapon we use, everything else is much less significant.

Hodgdon's manuals have more pure reloading data than any others, Lee's is a close second.
 
Personally, I rely on my Lyman manuals for most of my handloading.
Followed by - Sierra, Hornady, Speer, Hodgdon, etc. When in doubt,
I also consult Ken Water's "Pet Loads" book by Wolfe publishing. Its
a collection of articles (and load data) that he personally tested.
Yes, its expensive as books ago; 'bout $50 a copy, but well worth
it~! :scrutiny: ;)
 
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