Wolff Springs Too Springy?

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Confederate

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I bought three sets of Wolff spring kits for my Ruger Security-Sixes, but when I tried to replace the mainspring, I found the Wolff mainsprings were way too long to be loaded onto the SS's stem. It was listed as a 14 lb. spring and I can't get the bloody thing on without putting the stem in a vice (which I don't have here). I tried pushing it on and having my wife put the pin through the hole, but there was no way the spring could go on. The factory spring went on fine.

Has anyone had similar problems? And is it possible someone at Wolff put in springs for the GP-100?

I've just about had it with Wolff lately. Seems like this happened a year ago and am looking for the package. The other spring looks like it will be fine, but the mainspring is where most of the weight comes from.

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Sounds like might have the wrong spring. If you have a lighter spring they are longer but for the ones I have used have allways been easy to compress and worked great. IF its a heavier spring ,they can be hell to compress to get on. But so can new stock with some brands. I am not up to speed on rugers but between the newer 101 and 100and your speed six ,maybe you simple have the wrong springs??? As covered ,contact Wolff and ask. There great people to work with.
 
In 20 years of working on guns I have never seen anyone install any mainspring in any gun with just their bare hands. You have to use a vise.
 
About a week ago I got a Wolff spring kit for my Single Six. The main spring that came in the kit is much longer than the main spring from Ruger.

I wonder if this is because my Single Six has the lock and the kit is for a pre-lock main spring seat?
 
Hope all goes well but point that spring into a clean corner so if you shoot it across the room you might find it.haha

Drail Only spring in 20 years I could not do by hand with out help was a taurus stock 22lr hammer spring with out help. Darn near did not do it then. Still got it compressed and had my wife stick a heavy neddel thru the retainer hole. That spring marks on my fingers for several hours after.
 
I have changed a number of hammer springs in ruger revolvers; I always use two things: a fork (to compress the spring around the strut–the strut fits between two tines) and a big, clear ziplock bag. I do all spring work inside the bag, so if I mess up it only shoots so far, as opposed to across the room and down the heater duct.

If you look on youtube and do a search for "security six spring" or "ruger disassembly" or some such, you will find plenty of guidance.

I have done numerous GP and SP springs bare handed this way, but it takes some effort. If I was serious about this stuff, I'd be better off with a good vice, but I'm sort of a cheapskate.

HTH.
 
Use an old dinner fork to compress the spring onto the strut. Saves your fingers.

The spring "free length" is meaningless. Normally a new spring will have a longer free length than the old spring.

The length that will give you problems is the compressed length. You can calculate that by measuring the wire diameter with a calipers, counting the number of coils and multiplying that number by the diameter. Compare the old spring to the new spring. If the compressed length of the new spring is too long you will never get it on the strut.

One last word: safety glasses!
 
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