Working up load for unbranded bullets?

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p5200

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Hello, is it safe to work up a load for 6.5 Creedmoor 120gn (no brand) sp. bullets? If so, how should I go about it? I've never came across this problem before so I thought I'd better ask someone else more experienced than I, because I'd rather be safe than sorry. Thanks! upload_2022-10-29_9-57-9.gif Also, they are flat based no, boat tail. :)
 
Look for load dats for a similar profile/weight using your powder, drop 5% of the starting charge, then load 5 in increments looking for signs of pressure. Once you're about where you want to be MV/Pressure wise, work on your load development. Most of the powder companies will have load data available. Some will list specific bullets other's won't.

The odds are you'll end up right in the middle of the published loads.

Normally I just go with published data for that weight bullet and start on the low end.

Hodgdons has data for 3 makes of powder for example:

https://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-data-center?rdc=true&type=54
 
Where did the unbranded bullets come from?
Dollars to donuts, if you posted a picture, we could likely identify the actual source.
MidwayUSA sells a lot of Hornady blems.
MidSouth gets a lot of Nosler that are “house branded”. The Match Monster are actually bulk packed Nosler Custom Competition.

If you look at Lee #2 manual, many times brand isn’t specified. Just weights and composition. ie: Cast or jacketed.
 
Hello, is it safe to work up a load for 6.5 Creedmoor 120gn (no brand) sp. bullets? If so, how should I go about it? I've never came across this problem before so I thought I'd better ask someone else more experienced than I, because I'd rather be safe than sorry. Thanks!
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Also, they are flat based no, boat tail.

Sierra 120 gr. ProHunters certainly fit that description. I just try and find data for the same weight and bullet style and proceed from there.
 
Find a simular bullet in your load manual. By that I mean weight and construction. If it's between listed bullets choose the heavier option. Start at start or minimum, never reduce rifle cases below a start load!!!!!!
 
I look up a same weight bullet with a similar profile and load it to the lower end of the spec to start.
 
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I usually go with the data for a same weight or next heavier if its an odd weight. I have and still do purchase a lot of blem, pulled, and factory second bullets. They are either for hunting or target practice to go hunting. That said, sometimes I can compare and identify them against a factory sometimes not.

I start at the max magazine length for my OAL and make up a test dummy round to make sure they chamber. If not i adjust down in .005" increments.

Once everything fits I start at the starting load and work up slow from there. I usually make up 3-5 rounds of each charge weight from low to about a half to a grain under max.

Depending upon the caliber or powder burn rate I work up in .02 - .05 grain increments until something groups, I hit the velocity range I'm looking for, or see pressure signs like a jump in velocity or touchy extraction.

Once I find something promising, I'll adjust the seating depth down in .003"- .005" increments and usually shoot 3-5 rounds per change. Whatever load groups the best I'll load up 20 for higher round count test.

I load for hunting but prefer the best I can get and usually end up with around an inch or less groups at 100yds sometimes that at 200.

Hope that helps.
 
A good picture with weight and dimensions we could probably identify it 100%. Many sellers, not that many manufacturers. Not knowing @AJC1 nailed it. But if we could ID if for ya it saves some of the work up and guess work.
 
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