New Lock n Load Setup Question

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tjd78z

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I just received a Lock n Lock Ammo plant for Christmas and am planing on doing the following with it for reloading bulk .223

1st pass
RCBS lube die
Open
Dillon 1200b trimmer

Tumble

2nd Pass
RCBS full length sizing die
Powder
Powder Cop
MrBulletfeeder
RCBS seat/crimp die


My question is, do i need to re-lube before my second pass? And if so then couldn't I just add my full length die to the first pass to avoid lubing twice?
 
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the Dillon RT1200b trimmer both sizes and trims. This would eliminate the need for the full length sizing die completely.

Using the full length sizing die on the 2nd pass would require you to relube the cases, and would offer no benefit that I can see.

Perhaps you might consider a universal decapping die on the 2nd pass instead of the full length sizing die. This would ensure that your flash holes were clear of tumbling media, and would not require any additional lube.

Just a thought...
 
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You are correct, just looked at the dillon site. So could I still use the RCBS sizing die to clean the flash hole?
 
no, a universal decapper (about $15, i think) would be a much better option. sizing again would require lubing again and works the brass again.
 
I'm all over the place with this, the RCBS die is actually a expander/decapper not sizing die which can both clean the flash hole and expand enough to help with the bullet feeder correct?
 
you shouldn't need an expander for bottleneck rifle cartridges, like .223

do you have a link to the rcbs expander/decapper you were planning to use?
 
that is a basic 2-die rifle set. it has a full length sizing die and a bullet seater die.

the sizing die has a rod in the middle. the rod has a large spot sometimes referred to as the expander ball or expander button. when you run the case up in the sizing die, it pushes the neck of the case inward a little smaller than what we actually want. then, when you pull it out of the die, the expander ball drags through the inside of the neck and pushes it out to the proper inside diameter from the inside. this is because we're more concerned with the inside diameter of the neck than its outside diameter. there is also a decapping pin on the end of that rod.

long story short, if you use that sizing die on the second pass, you'll have to lube your cases again and you will be sizing them again, which is gonna work that neck twice as much as necessary. just put a universal decapper in the first station to clean out the flash hole.
 
If you back the die out a couple of turns, and run the decapper/expander rod down as far as it will go, it might work.

You might still hit the taper of the body and move the shoulder some, which I've had happen when trying to neck size .308 with full length dies. Not sure if this will be a problem with .223 or not.

You're much better off using a universal decapping die, or possibly just leave station 1 open, and inspect all flash holes before loading.

If you plan on crimping, you might be better off priming the brass in between sessions. This will allow you to inspect flash holes before priming, and will let you move your powder measure to station 1. You can then seat and crimp separately on stations 4 & 5.

Crimping should not be necessary under most circumstances, so I would go with either the universal decapping die or leaving station 1 empty.

Personally, I run a universal decapping die in station 1, and run station 3 empty. I don't have a powder cop die, so leaving the station empty lets the brass stick up through the top of the press, allowing for easy visual indication of powder charge.

Please let me know how you like the RT1200b on the LnL. That might be one of my next investments.
 
I don't reload 223 yet, but I found this You Tube video awhile ago that is similar to what you are trying to do. His first pass deprimes and lubes in station one using a RCBS Lube die and then sizes and trims in one station using a Dillon sizer/trimmer. He then tumbles the brass. The second pass then: 1. uses a universal deprimer to clean the primer holes and expand; 1-a. primes; 2. Drops powder; 3. inserts bullet; 4. seats bullet and 5. crimps bullet.

He apparently does not re-lube since he resizes in the first pass.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBQ_vJHiGek&context=C3a735d4ADOEgsToPDskLjDuZCE6M-7Wx_5OFTXf2y
 
I dont know much about the dillon 1200 trimmer other than it sizes and trims the case. If the sizing die that you have to get with the trimmer has a traditional type sizer/deprime die that deprimes, there is not a passage for the spent primer to fall through on any station but station #1. At some point you will have to deprime at station #1.
 
I dont know much about the dillon 1200 trimmer other than it sizes and trims the case. If the sizing die that you have to get with the trimmer has a traditional type sizer/deprime die that deprimes, there is not a passage for the spent primer to fall through on any station but station #1. At some point you will have to deprime at station #1.

Good point, I forgot about depriming.

In that case, I would buy the universal decapping die and run it in station 1, followed by the lube die in station 2, and then the RT1200b in station 3.

I'd then leave the universal decapping die in station 1 for the second pass, and you should be all set.

The other option would be to batch lube the brass before hand (with Hornady One-Shot or Dillon case lube) instead of using the lube die, and size and trim in station 1 only. It's all a matter of preference.
 
I dont know if you have the lube die yet, but you can lube cases quickly with a case lube pad. The hornady spray lube isokand workes great fo pistol brass in a carbide die. I did notice that it took more effort to resize 223 with it vs using traditional lube. Do you already have the dillon trimmer yet? I look at one a while ago, but I always try to balance speed with cost. I ended up getting a WFT trimmer from little crow gun works. It was around $70 from Midway USA.
 
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