Build your own AR vs. buying a new one out of the box

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I am an AR newbie, I have never shot one and only handled one a few times. I am not familiar with assembly and disassembly, maintenance and the operation of the AR.

SO…..did I let building one stop me. NOT!

Like others youtube was my friend. I watch several different ones several times over until I can assemble it by memory. By building my own I saved $229.00 off of retail prices ($1018 retail vs. $789 actual including 10 magazines) and used better quality parts.

I did not build the Upper. I brought a complete upper with a .223 Wylde chamber and 16” Wilson Arms barrel and free float forearm that was on sale saving $165.00.

The stripped lower is an Anderson I brought new for $40.00.

Saving a few more bucks I brought a Lower Parts Kit with a ALG QMS trigger and Magpul MOE grip.

I saved a few more bucks by buying the BCA buffer tube assembly and Magpul ACS-L that was on sale.

I added Magpul MBUS sights that were on sale saving another $15.00.

Since an AR is only as good as the magazines I brought a 10 pack of Magpul Gen. 3 30 round magazines for $105.00.

It is not necessary to buy $200.00 worth of tools. I only built the Lower so I only brought a combination Castle Nut and Barrel Nut wrench. I brought it new for $15.00 at a gunshow.

Oh I couldn’t find my center punch so I brought a new one. $5.00.

I made a vise block to hold the lower out of a scrap piece of 1” x 4” pine board and a couple of wraps of Duck Tape to keep from marring the finish.

I used Channel Locks (tape on jaws to avoid marring the finish) for the roll pin.

Ok for my next AR I plan on building the Upper also. I may buy a set of roll punches depending on what gas block I use. If I can’t find one ot borrow I will pick up a inexpensive Torque Wrench. I am going to buy the BCG complete and will be watching for sales on them.

As I plan on building several more AR’s the cost of the Torque Wrench, Center Punch, Castle/ Barrel Nut Wrench and Roll Pin Punches (maybe) will be split up four ways.

It was a fun, easy and rewarding project for me and I only have fair mechanical skills.
 
berettaprofessor said:
Unlike the intimidating list posted somewhere above, I completed my first Stag lower with a hammer, set of pliers, bronze punch set, and a few strips of masking tape and didn't break anything or mar the finish. No blocks, no roll pin punches, none of that crap. And I have little mechanical ability or tool experience. Read up, follow directions, and be ye not afraid.
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Intimidating? My post was not intimidating, and wasn't meant to be. It simply reflected my view of what tools would be needed to do the job as easily and consistently as possible.

Keep in mind that I am by nature very very particular, and I am also unfortunately a bit ham fisted with some tools. I don't claim to be the incredible hulk, but I do like to weight train and evidently my "feel" for torque specifications or what constitutes "snug" are not well refined. I've been known to way over torque fasteners by hand in the past. So for me a torque wrench is mandatory, not only so I don't break parts but so that I can record torque settings for repeatability if I have to disassemble and reassemble something.
 
Building your own not only teaches you how the firearm operates, gives you better understanding on how to repair it, but it also avoids that box of spare parts most end up with after personalizing it.

Good to find a buddy that has already done one for help, I have personally introduced a number of new shooters to the AR in this exact way.


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I
 
Back to the OP's goals, I'll add my own thoughts in regards to goals with the carbine as it pertains to my use.

I like to shoot a lot more than I like to tinker and troubleshoot gear that doesn't work. Not to say that a home build will not work right, far from it, but statistically you're a lot more likely to get a gun that runs right from a reputable manufacturer building to the M4 TDP (minus full auto bits, and short barrels) or better, than you will be with a home build. Just look at all the threads about diagnosing problems with an AR build on this forum...there are even more on AR specific forums.

I have tinkered with the AR by necessity since I bought an off brand that has had issues, and crap for warranty support (rubbish CMMG). I bought this before I knew any better, figuring an AR is an AR. I bought 2 very high quality factory built guns later, allowing me the luxury of tinkering more since I have my bases covered. Kind of like having a good solid daily driver vehicle, and a fun project car on the side. The daily driver is priority number one.

I submit that your "daily driver" M4 should look a lot like the Colt, BCM, DD, etc top tier carbines from a materials, and construction standpoint. The largest operator of the M4 weapon system in the world specifies certain attributes that their M4's must have, we'll call these features the most cost effective way to obtain an M4 that meets their function, reliability, and durability standards. You get to benefit from the huge user knowledge data base that came up with these attributes resulting in a gun that works, and works very well.

Others may disagree for a variety of reasons, and they can all argue their case and have valuable information too.
 
I had no desire to tackle a build job, so I did it like coloradoshooter. I just bought a complete lower and upper from PSA, BCG, CH and sights for about $500. So it's clear, this is not a build, it is buying a complete gun that is field stripped.

If you do decide to build your own AR, there are instructional videos on Youtube that may help.

We've had a lot of threads in the past about what is mil-spec, is a top tier gun worth the price, is PSA quality suspect, what is the most accurate AR, what rifles would be acceptable for duty use, etc. A lot of argument in the discussions, but also some interesting and helpful information. You can do searches on those archived threads if you're interested. The only thing I would add is that I'm personally very impressed with the platform, so I would encourage you to get one whatever you choose.
 
readyeddy said:
I had no desire to tackle a build job, so I did it like coloradoshooter. I just bought a complete lower and upper from PSA, BCG, CH and sights for about $500. So it's clear, this is not a build, it is buying a complete gun that is field stripped.

If you do decide to build your own AR, there are instructional videos on Youtube that may help.

We've had a lot of threads in the past about what is mil-spec, is a top tier gun worth the price, is PSA quality suspect, what is the most accurate AR, what rifles would be acceptable for duty use, etc. A lot of argument in the discussions, but also some interesting and helpful information. You can do searches on those archived threads if you're interested. The only thing I would add is that I'm personally very impressed with the platform, so I would encourage you to get one whatever you choose.
Click to expand...

I feel the same way probably wouldn't want to build my own and take the time
 
I'm in the process of building/assembling my first AR. The reason I went this route is simple I don't have $700 to plunk down for an entry level rifle. So I'll get it "one piece at a time" and eventually have a gun that is what I want.
 
I'm going with a build for my first.
I am not doing it to save money. I could buy a Smith and Wesson M&P Sport for less than what I'm building it for.

I'm doing it because I'm getting exactly what I want.
I want a 14.5" barrel with flash hider pinned and welded.
I want an upgraded nickel boron bolt carrier group.
I wanted specific furniture.

I'm getting all of this exactly like I want it and I will have less than $800 in it when I'm finished.

That is why it is beneficial to build one. I could very well purchase a fine quality AR for around the same money.
And the one purchased may bring more at resale, though I don't think I'll ever sell it. But you never know. If there's another panic and someone offers me 4x what I've got in it, I probably will.
 
Arkansas Paul said:
I'm going with a build for my first.
I am not doing it to save money. I could buy a Smith and Wesson M&P Sport for less than what I'm building it for.

I'm doing it because I'm getting exactly what I want.
I want a 14.5" barrel with flash hider pinned and welded.
I want an upgraded nickel boron bolt carrier group.
I wanted specific furniture.

I'm getting all of this exactly like I want it and I will have less than $800 in it when I'm finished.

That is why it is beneficial to build one. I could very well purchase a fine quality AR for around the same money.
And the one purchased may bring more at resale, though I don't think I'll ever sell it. But you never know. If there's another panic and someone offers me 4x what I've got in it, I probably will.
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I saw an ad for a Colt AR for $999. Not much more (It's a COLT) and better than the S&W MP model that sells for a little less?
 
Yes, there is an advantage to having a warranty on a complete rifle, as opposed to a conglomeration of parts.

I love the notion that you can build a better rifle than major firearms manufacturers at your kitchen table with channel-locks and vise grips. Sure, and you can fix most anything with duct tape. Let me put it this way, I do not want an AR that was NOT built with at least $200 worth of tools. Cheap DSLR's have made everyone a photographer just like the highly modular AR has made everyone a gunsmith. :rolleyes:


Tirod said:
One quick way to know the poster hasn't got a true grasp of the mechanics is when they start on using a torque wrench, which is entirely unnecessary. If you are experienced about threaded fasteners, you know you can go too far, all the torque wrench does is keep you from doing it.
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One thing is for sure, I will never hire you to build me an engine. You obviously are clueless about the purpose of a torque wrench.
 
Varminterror said:
Warranty issues are kind of a bunk excuse for not building your own. Any reputable parts manufacturer will warrant their parts just the same as the firearms manufacturers do, all you have to be able to do is determine what parts are out of spec - which is incredibly easy. The AR is a remarkably simple mechanism, it doesn't take much mechanical understanding to be able to ask the right questions for troubleshooting. If you ask the right questions, the rifle will tell you what is wrong.

I don't at all agree with the premise Colt uses better springs than other manufacturers. Plus, all springs in an AR (or any firearm, or any spring mechanism in general) need to be replaced multiple times within the service life of the barrel, let alone the service life of the rifle itself. If an owner buys a cheap replacement spring, it doesn't matter what's engraved on the side of the lower. There are far better springs on the market than colt offers, and frankly, an owner can choose the colt springs for their self build if they really believe having a pony on the label matters. There's nothing wrong with the Colts, and they are very high quality rifles, but there are far better rifles on the market in their price class, especially when you consider a self build. The Colts are accurate and reliable, but it's false to say they are "the most" accurate of most reliable, as there isn't a single model out there which can claim that, even among its price point peers.
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"there are far better rifles on the market in their price class" What other brands besides Colt?
 
stinger 327 said:
I saw an ad for a Colt AR for $999. Not much more (It's a COLT) and better than the S&W MP model that sells for a little less?
Click to expand...

I see you put the word "Colt" in all caps so it is obvious you place them in higher esteem than others.

I don't fault your preference, as Colts are great quality rifles.
But do not make the mistake of thinking they are the end all be all of AR-15s. They are a very good one, but there are plenty of others out there that are very good as well.
 
Arkansas Paul said:
I see you put the word "Colt" in all caps so it is obvious you place them in higher esteem than others.

I don't fault your preference, as Colts are great quality rifles.
But do not make the mistake of thinking they are the end all be all of AR-15s. They are a very good one, but there are plenty of others out there that are very good as well.
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Which other brands?
 
Some thoughts:

1. As mentioned, ARs can be had for record low prices today, so the savings of DIY may be minimal to non-existent.

2. If you want to build, assembling a LPK in a stripped lower is pretty easy and can be done with basic tools (lot's of YouTube videos out there), but putting together the upper is a little trickier and requires either an AR barrel wrench and a vise block, or a creative mind (and willingness to live with a scratch or two). Buying these will put you over the price of a new rifle. So buying a rifle kit, with an assembled upper and a LPK (shipped to your door with no FFL) and a stripped lower (FFL transfer required) is the way many start out.

3. Resale value of a new rifle will be greater than your home brew rifle, as not everybody will trust your workmanship.

4. Many put together their AR simply for the satisfaction of it.
 
Another reason to build your own is to get a gun with features that are not offered on a factory rifle.

As previously commented I am planning on doing a complete build on my next AR. Towards this goal I am considering a lightweight carbine using a Upper Receiver that does not have the Forward Assist and Ejection port cover and a lighter weight 14.7" barrel. I have been surfing the web looking at the weight and style of various companies parts. I am giving a lot of thought of keeping it's weight at 5 lbs.

When it is done I will have a unique carbine built exactly to my tastes.

As for resale I don't care. I'll keep them until I die in which my wife and kids can decide what they want to do with them.

p.s. Both Kids are Army vets and like the M-4 so I am not concerned about my AR's not finding a good home.
 
BSA1 said:
Another reason to build your own is to get a gun with features that are not offered on a factory rifle.

As previously commented I am planning on doing a complete build on my next AR. Towards this goal I am considering a lightweight carbine using a Upper Receiver that does not have the Forward Assist and Ejection port cover and a lighter weight 14.7" barrel. I have been surfing the web looking at the weight and style of various companies parts. I am giving a lot of thought of keeping it's weight at 5 lbs.

When it is done I will have a unique carbine built exactly to my tastes.

As for resale I don't care. I'll keep them until I die in which my wife and kids can decide what they want to do with them.

p.s. Both Kids are Army vets and like the M-4 so I am not concerned about my AR's not finding a good home.
Click to expand...

That is an ideal situation. Luckily for me I will stick with the longer barrel versions.
 
I've learned over time to buy what you need / want and leave it alone OR out of the gate plan a build to get what you want. My colt 6720 is stock and will stay, including trigger. My build PA is a lightweight with M lock forearm, SSAE trigger, heavy buffer, etc. I like em both for what they are but enjoyed learning more about the platform through the build.
 
I've "built" two. I built the lowers and bought complete uppers. The first has a RRA 2-stage trigger and a RRA Predator Pursuit 20" upper. The lower is a stag. It's the most accurate rifle I own at the moment and loves 60 gr Hornady SP bullets. The second one is an Anderson lower, CMMG LPG, cheap adjustable buttstock. It has a 16" AR-Stoner 5.56 upper that I got on sale from Midway. I think I have about $450 in that one including an H2 buffer. It has a carbine length gas system and I may rebarrel it to be a mid-length because it acts like it's very overgassed ( at least from my very limited AR experience, thus the H2 buffer bandaid ) Is it on par with a Colt? No, but it was fun putting it together and I'll probably swap out enough parts on it to re-use the original parts on another upper. :D

I'm not worried about resale value, but if I was I'd probably go with Colt or some other well-know complete rifle even if it costs more.

And building one to save money is like handloading to save money or tying flies to save money. It usually doesn't end up that way in the long run. (Not that it's a bad thing, especially if you like tinkering, handloading, and tying flies.)

Matt
 
morcey2 said:
I've "built" two. I built the lowers and bought complete uppers. The first has a RRA 2-stage trigger and a RRA Predator Pursuit 20" upper. The lower is a stag. It's the most accurate rifle I own at the moment and loves 60 gr Hornady SP bullets. The second one is an Anderson lower, CMMG LPG, cheap adjustable buttstock. It has a 16" AR-Stoner 5.56 upper that I got on sale from Midway. I think I have about $450 in that one including an H2 buffer. It has a carbine length gas system and I may rebarrel it to be a mid-length because it acts like it's very overgassed ( at least from my very limited AR experience, thus the H2 buffer bandaid ) Is it on par with a Colt? No, but it was fun putting it together and I'll probably swap out enough parts on it to re-use the original parts on another upper. :D

I'm not worried about resale value, but if I was I'd probably go with Colt or some other well-know complete rifle even if it costs more.

And building one to save money is like handloading to save money or tying flies to save money. It usually doesn't end up that way in the long run. (Not that it's a bad thing, especially if you like tinkering, handloading, and tying flies.)

Matt
Click to expand...
I prefer not to tinker with things just like cars if it ain't broke don't fix it. Won't buy handloads neither as I prefer factory loads. Yes you could end up spendingmore building someting unreliable and having to change this or that.
 
3. Resale value of a new rifle will be greater than your home brew rifle, as not everybody will trust your workmanship.
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The resale value is dependent on many things, not just if its a factory built vs home built.

A new factory built rifle may have a similar resale value than a home-built rifle. It all depends on the quality of parts used, brand value, and workmanship of the rifle.

A Colt or BCM AR15 may fetch a good resale, but a DPMS or Diamondback may not.
I've assembled my own rifles for $400 for a complete AR15 and sold it for $600.

If you know how to build a good quality AR on a budget, you can make a decent profit reselling it. Palmetto State Armory, for example, has some excellent deals all the time. I have been buying their $199 complete uppers (w/o BCG) and mating it with a basic $130 Anderson complete lower.

As an example, here is the breakdown of my last AR build under $400:

$ 270 - PSA 16" Freedom upper with Stainless 1:7 barrel, BCG, and CH
+ 125 - Anderson complete lower (home built)
$ 395 for a complete brand new AR15.
 
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stinger 327 said:
I prefer not to tinker with things just like cars if it ain't broke don't fix it. Won't buy handloads neither as I prefer factory loads. Yes you could end up spendingmore building someting unreliable and having to change this or that.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure about the "Won't buy handloads" since I was talking about me doing my own handloading, not buying anyone else's handloads. And I'm not talking about tinkering with something that's unreliable to make it reliable, but changing it to make it more what I want. For example, I own a 1985 Chevy K15 that came to me effectively dead stock. Reliable? Yeah. But I can get better gas mileage out of it by "tinkering" with the carb, changing the vacuum advance canister and mechanical advance mechanism on the distributor, and putting on a more open exhaust. Result? Better mileage and more usable power. Would I do it to my wife's van? No, but I'm always tinkering and I can fix pretty much anything in or around our house and all of our vehicles. The only things I won't do is anything where a license is needed to fix it legally like certain natural gas, plumbing, or electrical changes.

There's lots to be learned from "tinkering", but if it's not something you enjoy, no problem.

Matt
 
How familiar are you with AR-15s? What do you know about quality of the various parts. What alloys and finish treatments do you want for various parts?
What parts are the best design aspects of various factory guns, and what combos would result in an even better gun than what you could buy? What parts do you want unique to your gun beyond simple furniture?
When you build yours are you really assembling it all? Are you putting the barrel on the receiver or are you just buying an upper which is basically already a complete rifle? Are you putting all the parts in a stripped lower? Are you buying those parts separate or in a kit and will you be able to tell the good included in a kit from the junk?
Do you know what makes it function reliably, what kinda of quality control can you exercise over your build?


If you know what you are doing and are willing to put in research for each part that goes beyond just what manufacturers of cheap parts advertise, you can definitely build a good rifle.
You can also spend a lot more than necessary if you don't really know what makes a quality part a quality part and just buy what is top end. While at the same time make something that is low quality if you get some junk parts.
Or a combination of the two and have high end expensive components matched with some junk that brings the reliability of the whole thing down or keeps you from getting what you could out of the good components.

If you don't know what you are doing, but have the patience to assemble it right, you can certainly end up with a less expensive rifle that will still run fine. However you will have made some less than ideal decisions because you don't know enough yet.

When the difference between making one and building one of similar quality is maybe a couple hundred bucks, what is a couple hundred bucks really worth to you?
If I was new to ARs I would just buy a factory one at current prices.
You can get one around $1,000 from good manufacturers, which is the same rifle were paying $2000+ for in the last panic.
While the cheapest builds start at probably around $600. So the price difference between the cheapest that will run and one that is actually good quality is between that.


Start with one nice factory one at current prices then learn what you like and dislike before building one.
If however building means merely putting an upper and lower together that you purchase separate from a big manufacturer, then you are practically buying a factory gun anyways 'building' a gun like that.
 
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