If you're planning on shooting much, I'd steer clear of any .44 with a brass frame. Steel isn't that much more expensive, and will hold up many times longer in actual use.
Brass is more affected by BP fouling, especially sulpher and nitrates, than steel. It is much softer, and will change dimensionally under the stress of recoil, etc. sooner and to a greater degree than iron or steel. The cylinder base pin screws directly into the frame on the open-top Colt design and is usually the first place where accelerated wear shows up.
IIWY, and wanted a C&B 'Colt' I'd get either a true 1851 Navy replica in .36 or an 1860 Army .44. Both have a steel frame and will hold up much better in actual use.
FWIW, the only reason that most of the Confederate copies of both Colt and Remington revolvers were made with brass frames is that they had little choice. The South lacked both the resources and manufacturing tools for iron or steel to be a viable option. IMO, this is also why nearly all of them were chambered in .36, too. The smaller caliber allowed for a more acceptable service life before they had to be replaced.
Since you've already ordered it, I'd use smaller charges than usual, say in the 20 gr. range. Use the ball size recommended in your manual, usually 0.451".
Loding should be covered in it too. Briefly, most folks find it easier to use a flask with a spout of predetermined volume (eg: 18 gr.) for powder. Pyrodex and most other BP substitutes are made to be used as volumetric equivalents, not actual weight. There are exceptions out there, so read the label!!
I follow each charge with a lubricated wad from Ox Yoke Originals. Some folks prefer to top off each loaded chamber with Crisco or grease. They both serve the same pupose: lubrication and prevention of "chain-firing". This last happens when flash-over from firing ignites the adjacent chambers, ruining one's entire afternoon at the very least.
Top each charged chamber with a ball or conical bullet of the appropriate size and seat it firmly with the rammer. Try to be as uniform here as possible without leaving any air space between the ball and the charge.
Finally, place a cap of the correct size on each nipple. For safety's sake, this should be done immediately prior to firing. If you're going to carry it loaded, never load more than five chambers and leave the hammer down on an EMPTY chamber. NEVER trust those little 'safety' pins on the rear face of the cylinder.
Cleaning involves detail stripping to be done thoroughly. If your frame is brass, avoid using any solvent made for conventional firearms as they will usually contain chemicals which attack copper, of which brass is mostly composed. Windex (without ammonia, if possible. Ammonia eats brass, too.) followed by hot, soapy water will remove most fouling, An old nylon toothbrush will help get it out of nooks and crannies. you might need to use a bore brush to remove any leading from the barrel. Follow with a thorough rinse in the hottest water you can get. This is to heat the metal enough for most of the moisture left to evaporate. When cool enough to handle, wipe any remaining moisture off of the parts and spray them down with WD-40. Let them cool completely, wipe off excess WD-40, lubricate per your manual, and reassemble.
