1911's ( Stove Pipeing ) Question

What Is Your Valued Opinion Please.


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My valued opinion is that 1911s are no more prone to stove piping than any other gun, perhaps less prone.
 
Why? Short cycle due to oversprung slides is the primary cause. Underpowered ammo. Bad extractor setup. Broken/loose ejector.

If you're talking live round stovepipe, aka Bolt Over Base Misfeed...short cycle and or/ magazine spring issue.
 
I didn't vote, because I didn't find a question that I felt applied.
As Tuner noted, the reasons are many, but if there is a leading cause, it is too much recoil spring.

The media, in it's infinite experience and wisdom, often recommends replacing the factory spring with a stronger one. According to them, "this gives you greater control for fast double-taps, more positive feeding, reduces gun battering, and even cooks breakfast for you before you go shooting."

Most folks would be better served to leave the dang stock springs alone.

Couple that with a quick glance through the Brownell's catalog, and you find that with the possible exception of the AR-15, more after-market parts, accessories, and useless do-dad's in various quality levels are sold for the 1911 then all other guns combined.

That makes every shade-tree mechanic with a big hammer, a medium screwdriver, and a Credit Card an expert 1911 gunsmith.
Right?

Then, after Billy-Bob buys or builds his first 1911, he finds out those big bullets cost a lot more, and 230 grain hard-ball kicks a little more then he is used to with his 9mm.

So, he takes up reloading to save money and tailer his ammo to his recoil tolerance level.
He uses fast powder in small doses to save .01 cent a round on reload expenses.

Add it all up (junk advice, junk guns, and junk ammo) and you may have a few problems with a few 1911's.

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rcmodel
 
Most folks would be better served to leave the dang stock springs alone.

Amen! Testify!

According to them, "this gives you greater control for fast double-taps, more positive feeding, reduces gun battering, and even cooks breakfast for you before you go shooting."

In truth...stronger than stock recoil springs actually make the recoil sharper.
Fire a 1911 with hardball with a 14-pound spring...and then switch to a 20-pound spring.


That makes every shade-tree mechanic with a big hammer, a medium screwdriver, and a Credit Card an expert 1911 gunsmith.
Right?

Oh, Gawd! Don't get me started... :D
 
I have a Kimber .45 that I bought used that gave me problems (stove/pipes) with my own cast reloads, but factory ammo shot fine. Also had problems with cartridges not going to full battery, called LEE Realoding and they suggested I get a factory crimp die. I got the factory crimp die and end of problem, don't know just why this would cure stove pipes but I no longer have the problem.
 
That your reloads wouldn't fully chamber indicates that the case mouth bell was not being removed completely, or not getting a complete taper crimp, when the seating die did it's thing.

That would allow an empties rim to catch slightly on the case mouth of the next loaded round in the magazine as it was being extracted, and cause it to become at least partially un-hooked from the extractor.

That in turn, sets up a new set of rules for the ejector to deal with, and the empty case may get a spinning start while still inside the ejection port before it can get out of the way of the closing slide.

Purely a guess on my part if that was happening.
But about all a Lee FCD does is squeeze the case back into the shape it is supposed to be in in the first place when it comes out of the seating die.

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rcmodel
 
Reading your reply it makes sense what you say. The end result of it curing the problem was what I was after tho. I dont know why the sating die did not solve the problem like you said, but the FCD did, possible it was a trifle smaller ID. Never measured it tho.
 
Hi Guys,
First of all, my best whishes for the incoming year to all THR and staff. Secondly, I have read this thread and others in the past about balance between spring and stove pipe. A question came to me. How many Ipsc competitors have a spring so weak that they can rack the slide with two fingers without feeding problems (e.g.: at steel match powder charges can't be so low); their slides only go back and forward, no flipping when a heavier spring is recommended for fastest sight acquisition. Thanks in advance.

CZhen
FL
 
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