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223/5.56 Routine

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by Henry45, Oct 3, 2012.

  1. Henry45

    Henry45 Well-Known Member

    Just got a new Dillon 650 for 223/5.56.

    What are you guys routines to loading these up?

    Brass prep, then lube resize and all then tumble to get the lube off after loading?

    Or do you find it best to resize, then tumble then load?

    Trying to figure out the most efficient method for loading this caliber..


    SKLFCO Active Member

    On mine I tumble clean the brass, run them through to resize and deprime, then trim and debur, swage if needed, tumble again to remove lube and finally run through again to load. Then the fun starts all over again.
  3. slowr1der

    slowr1der Well-Known Member

    That's the same method I use as well.
  4. NeuseRvrRat

    NeuseRvrRat Well-Known Member

    same here
  5. Canuck-IL

    Canuck-IL Well-Known Member

    If you're going to run dirty brass into the sizing die, why bother tumbling at all?

    It's not really caliber specific ... bottle neck cases in general are only "partially" progressive ... they require prep, a die operation, more prep often to include trimming, and then finally prime and load.

  6. Henry45

    Henry45 Well-Known Member

    No, I mean, starting with clean brass... :)

    So, do you not put a sizing die on your progressive? I have a Lee single that I thought of using to size and deprime. Then swage if needed, clean the lube off and dump into the casefeeder..
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2012
  7. Canuck-IL

    Canuck-IL Well-Known Member

    I'm fussy about the inside of my sizers ... I
    - deprime on an old single stage with a Lee universal decapper,
    - swage if needed,
    - for new to me cases that matter, ream the pocket and deburr the flash hole
    - tumble w SS media,
    - size - sometimes with an X-die, on a single stage
    - trim/chamfer/deburr as needed
    - tumble or wipe off lube w mineral spirits on a rag(depends on quantity/purpose)
    - prime/powder/bullet on a progressive or single stage - again, depends upon intended use of the ammo.
  8. MrCountyCop

    MrCountyCop Well-Known Member

    Initial cleaning in Walnut (2 hours)
    Chamfer/Debur/Swage Primer Pocket
    2nd Cleaning in Corn Cob adding NuFinish (4-6 hours)

  9. stavman11

    stavman11 Well-Known Member

    I have not been doing reloading too long... 6-8 months.

    I researched a lot.... and have found a good process that works for me

    All my Brass is factory loads, and NO Military primers...
    I use a Lee Progressive 1000 press

    Clean Brass (3hrs minimum)
    Stage 1 de-prime and Size
    Stage 2 Powder
    Stage 3 Seat Bullet

    I have not had any issues with over 5000 rounds. I have a lot to load and may start on Sunday and May de-Prime and size in 1 step and clean again since I have a lot of Brass that is 5-6x loaded. I may also see if any need Trimming as well.

    With my Case Size gauge... i have found most Brass dosent need trimming as often as i thought.

    Many many way's to do It... Just be sure and check your rounds.... and Find a process that suites you

    Good Luck

  10. Shmackey

    Shmackey Well-Known Member

    This--but I have been thinking about doing a truly fast, progressive run of plinking ammo one of these days, doing them up just like .45ACP and wiping off the cases at the end. N
  11. Pete D.

    Pete D. Well-Known Member


    You fellas work really hard.
    I tumble my brass until it shines. Then, if I haven't already done so, I may chamfer the mouth of the cases. Since, however, I load virtually all boat tailed bullets, the chamfer is not needed. I gave up cleaning primer pockets twenty years ago and have never noticed a difference in the ammo. Then I lube the cases and run them through the press until they are complete. Them I clean the lube off.
    The fewer operations per case, the happier I am.
    Trimming - only expensive cases like the .416 Rigby or the .375 H&H - about every fourth firing I will trim. More standard cases like .223 and .30-06....I have many, many cases to cycle through so trimming is a rarity.
    That's the spirit. I am willing to bet that you won't notice much difference in performance, if any at all.

    Last edited: Oct 5, 2012
  12. Walkalong

    Walkalong Moderator

    Shoot it.
    Tumble it.
    Size/decap it on the LNL.
    Tumble it.
    Trim it.
    Chamfer & Deburr it.
    Hand prime it.
    Load it on the LNL.
  13. CGT80

    CGT80 Well-Known Member

    size and deprime on old hollywood single stage
    wipe off lube or tumble
    chamfer and debur
    hand prime or use bench mounted RCBS APS tool
    load into station 2 of dillon 550 to powder and then seat bullets

    I use a 550 with a case feeder and can't run rifle brass through the press at station 1, so I found this method best for rifle (low volume rifle shooter).
  14. edfardos

    edfardos Well-Known Member

    hold loading block up to the light, look inside necks for splits/slits
    trim any > 1.754". (they never grow more than .006" for me during sizing)
    lube-pad every other brass in the loading block
    draw a #2 pencil line inside every other neck
    load full progressive in rcbs pro2000
    wipe off lube and inspect
    put cartidges back in same box, write down lot number, recipe, and times reloaded

    (military brass goes in the bin until I find a reliable way to remove the primer pocket crimp)
    (junk after 6 loadings, neck splits begin after this for me)
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2012
  15. Baryngyl

    Baryngyl Well-Known Member

    Why the pencil line?

    Michael Grace
  16. stavman11

    stavman11 Well-Known Member

    Im with you Pete

    and no issues to date yet
  17. edfardos

    edfardos Well-Known Member

    pencil lead is "graphite", a dry lubricant, prevents galling as the expander ball pulls through the neck. If your press squeeks or grinds as you pull the ram down, give pencil lead a try. It's probably more important for larger calibers like 30'06.
  18. Hondo 60

    Hondo 60 Well-Known Member

    Tumble it, lube it, deprime/resize, trim & chamfer, tumble, & then run it thru the Dillon.

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