I would prefer a 165/168 always in a 308 unless it's a mono. Very different terminal needs.When I was doing my 308 Win load workup for deer, I went with the easy to find Hornady 150 Interlock. Flat based 150, despite the fact that the clerk at the reloading shop handed me a box of Hornady 165 boat tail Interlocks.......and a pound of Varget and assurances that was what I wanted. The 150's over 46.5 grains of Varget have a muzzle velocity of around 2900 fps and shoots .75 MOA or less. But after looking at a ballistics chart, that may change. This is a side by side comparison of a Hornady 150 btsp vs. the 165 btsp. Despite having a higher muzzle velocity, after as little as 100 yards, there isn't much difference, and at 200 yards, they are the same. Past that, the 165 retains more velocity and energy.
Out to 250 yards or so, a well placed shot should blow out both lungs and anchor anything from elk on down. A 165 Nosler partition might be more better.
BTW, chart zero was 100 yards. If sighted in at 2 inches high at 100 yards, there is no need to do anything but point and shoot out to 250 to 300 yards.
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Most accurate 308 load I ever made was using 4064 and the 165 sgk -hp
All sierras I've shot shoot great, I was stupid and forgot to right down the load but don't have the rifle any longer so it doesn't hurt as much not remembering the load. Not like it would shoot so well in any other rifle but was amazing out of that 700 mil spec clone I built. Never did get to pop a deer with one, used the normal sgk before but never the hollow point sgk's.You can not go wrong with the 165 SGKs
Interesting.Thing that never made sense to me is it the copper bullets penetrate so much better why do they seem to be caught so often in the animal, I can see in a big animal but see a lot stopped by whitetails.
Thing that never made sense to me is it the copper bullets penetrate so much better why do they seem to be caught so often in the animal, I can see in a big animal but see a lot stopped by whitetails.
Interesting.
I wonder what angle the shots were taken at? Broadside, quartering….?
Could that be why?
You tout an accurate load without touting the skill a group this size requires. That's some fine shooting, sir... well done!I’ve not been lucky enough to get on an elk hunt yet but I’ve done a good bit of hunting load work ups for .308 and I really like 165 Accubond.
Very accurate and deadly on deer.
This load is using 44gn of Varget, Nosler brass, 2.820” OAL
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I'm going to reiterate that I think a premium bullet is nearly a necessity when shooting elk. You need the penetration.
By way of example, my brother in law shot a nice 6x6 this year with his 308. He was using factory Federal 180 grain trophy bonded tipped bullets. I chrony'd them at about 2575 from his 18" barrel. He shot the bull quartering to him at about 75 yards; took the bull on the point of the shoulder. The bullet took out both lungs and the heart, but it failed to pass through. We found it under the hide on the opposite side. Textbook expansion, a good shot and good penetration, but still no exit---at under 100 yards! (My BIL also lost an elk a few years back that was shot with 150 SGKs out of a 270, again under 100 yards). Elk are big, tough critters. Bring enough bullet.
If I were handloading for a 308 to take elk hunting, my first pick would probably be a 165 accubond. A monometal would also be a good choice if you can get enough speed to ensure expansion at the max distance you're going to shoot. I've had mixed results on whether I can get enough speed behind them to make them interesting. Personally, I would avoid cup-and-core bullets (including the SGK) for elk. If you need to take an angled shot of any kind, they are likely to be trouble, IMO. Good powders have been mentioned by others.
Edit to add: If you do go the Barnes route for your bullet, I suggest the 168 TTSX rather than the 165. Per Barnes, the168 is desiged to expand at lower velocities than the 165, which is intended for the magnums.