35 Remington Recipes

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ArchAngelCD

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OK, while I have loaded for many cartridges I have not loaded the 35 Remington for accuracy.

Yes, I know every rifle and barrel is different so please don't go through that. Much of the time an accurate load is an accurate load. I'm asking for Pet Loads only, not common ammo. If you are kind enough to share your most accurate load combinations I will of course tweak it for my rifle if needed.

Any powder or bullet is fine, I will buy powder if need be. I have many of the powders listed in the manuals I have. I'm just looking for a good starting place for an accurate hunting load because time is tight.

Thank you in advance.
 
I have a Marlin 336 in .35 Remington. Haven't reloaded it yet but I would use Varget which I have plenty on hand and a 200 gr bullet. Probably a lot of powders that will work with this cartridge.
 
I have a Thompson gen 1 contender in .35 remington, It's a monster to shoot, so I don't shoot it often at all. It was my late father's deer gun of choice so I hang onto it. If your looking for a good solid large game caliber for northeastern areas, it's hard to beat. I still have his dies and cases, bullets, powder etc, but haven't taken the time to work up a load for it. In a rifle I can see the attraction, but in a pistol configuration it's just too punishing.
 
I'm just starting into 35 Rem with cast bullets, so no pet loads yet. I did find a disappointing lack of data in modern manuals, and finally found Lyman 44 has a broader selection including IMR4227 and 2400 fit 158-200ish.

I've also demonstrated that gas checks make a positive difference. . .
 
I just pulled out my father's reloading notebook, here is what he was running for the 35 remington
200 grain Sierra round nose bullets
41.5 grains of winchester W-748
for a velocity of 2074 fps

Looks like that was his go to load for it. He was taking large deer at closer ranges (50 to 100 yards) in heavily wooded areas with it.
 
I only shoot one load in my 141.

200 gr. Hornady RN with 39 grs. of 4320.
It has been an accurate load for me and I like the way 4320 meters.

JT
 
My gun is a Marlin 336 Sporting Carbine with Ballard rifling, 1954 so pre-microgrove. I shoot 200gn RN Sierras and H322 33.5gn

Shot Speed
1 1839 ft/s
2 1858 ft/s
3 1840 ft/s
4 1927 ft/s
5 1810 ft/s
 
Wrong forum. Try Marlinowners.com.

WARNING, MOST OF THIS DATA EXCEEDS PUBLISHED MAXIMUM LOADS. USE WITH DISCRETION.
You didn't say what rifle. If an older Remington auto loader, stick with published max loads, or less.

Most published data for .35Rem is to "Burrito Fart" pressure levels.
My .35Rem loads usually start at published max and go up from there.
Many powders give good results. However, best are H4895, IMR3031, and LVR.
My pet loads are:
#1.
40gr H4895 under a 200gr Remington Corlokt (no longer sold as a component), or Sierra 200gr RNSpt. I seat to cannelure and crimp with a Lee FCD. Gets 2,275fps from my Marlin M336. It will shoot 1" 3-shot groups at my 185yd backyard range. Done it multiple times. However, after 3 shots, barrel will heat up, and poi "walks".
#2.
39.0gr BLC2 under the RCBS 200gr FNGC cast bullet. Likewise crimped to crimp groove. My mold casts to 220gr lubed and gas checked. Cast from 50/50 wheel weighs and plumbers lead, this is a powerful accurate load suitable for anything in lower 48 states up to 200yds. It's running 2,050fps. Noticeable recoil.
Since 2008 and all jacketed.358 rifle bullets being unavailable, I now use this load exclusively in my .35Rem. Jacketed bullets go in the BLR .358win.

A few observations on the .35Rem.
The Marlins have a very short throat. Most suitable bullets seated and crimped to cannelure are very close to touching the lands. This greatly aids accuracy but also requires that close attention be paid to trimming the brass for uniform seating and crimping.

I don't care for the 200gr Hornady RN or FTX. I've had the FTX get the rubber tips get wedged between case head and magazine tubes jamming them in the magazine tube. I've also experienced failure to expand with both bullets. Likewise the 180gr Speer. Both Hornady bullets are accurate though, and available. MidwayUSA has them on sale for attractive prices. However, the Sierra RN is the best available IMO.
Starting out, I'd recommend starting at 36.0gr of IMR3031, work up, with the 200gr Sierra. 38-38.5 is where most users usually find best accuracy.
I had a Rem. M760 in .35 Rem that would shoot clover leaf groups at 100yds at 2,400fps over a full case of H322. This load will "lock up" most .35's so I don't suggest it.
But from a suitably strong action, the .35 will reach within 70-90fps of the .358win. A very underrated and unappreciated cartridge.
 
I just pulled out my father's reloading notebook, here is what he was running for the 35 remington
200 grain Sierra round nose bullets
41.5 grains of winchester W-748
for a velocity of 2074 fps

Looks like that was his go to load for it. He was taking large deer at closer ranges (50 to 100 yards) in heavily wooded areas with it.
I want to thank everyone for posting their loads. It's a great head start. A special thanks to ar-newbie for taking the time to dig out Dad's notes and for the willingness to share it.

Thanks to all, I do appreciate it.
 
ArchAngelCD, below is a recipe I used for my Marlin 336 .35 Rem rifle. This is a stainless model which I believe is Ballard rifled. I was so pleased with the result the first few times out I figured I got lucky and checked this one off as done.

Federal brass
Lee die set
CCI BR-2 primer
38.0 grains Varget
Hornady FTX 200 grain bullet
COL 2.510"
Crimped
 
In my 336T Marlin I've used only jacketed bullets and IMR 3031
180 gr Speer FP 38.0 grains
200 Hornady RN 36.0 grains
220 Speer FP 33.0 grains
All gave 2" or better accuracy at 100 yards with a 2.5 power weaver scope.
Good luck, it's a great but forgotten caliber!
 
It ain't that forgotten. The 35 is one of the better choices for shooting cast bullets at game up to large hog and mule deer. Put a nice example for sale at the cast boolits forum and watch the stampede.
 
It is one of the finest calibers for hunting in heavily wooded areas within 100 yards. No doubt about it.
 
The caveat with the .35Rem is that too many of the bullets for reloading are constructed with the .358win, .35Whelem, .350RemMag, and .350NormaMag in mind. At the impact speed of most of the aforementioned loads, they simply are going too slow to reliably expand when launched by the .35R. Of course a .35" slug hitting vitals is almost always fatal goes in the .35's favor, but I've had too many failures to expand resulting in long trails, or lost game with mid lung hits to recommend them.

Factory loaded .35R's get by due to their bullets being specifically tailored for the 2,000fps m/v that most generate. Some of the aforementioned loads though accurate, don't even get 2,000fps from a 20" bbl of most .35R's.
Hit spine, shoulder blade, or humerus; most of the bullets mentioned do ok. Hit 'em in the ribs but not the heart, good luck finding them unless you're using the Rem Corlokt, or Sierra ProHunter. The 158-180gr handgun bullets are actually quite good in this regard. A favorite of mine is the discontinued Hornady 180gr SSP. But I didn't mention it due to unavailablity.

If I'm correct, The OP has come into possession of a Rem. M-7. I would jump on one in a heartbeat as I already have three in .223, .260, and 7mm-08.
I'd load up some 180gr Speer FN, sight it in +3" at 100yds, and then see how many bangflops I could get until I run out of my small stash of the 180gr Hornady's.
All this talk about the .35 means I've got to take one out to the deer stand this pm....
 
Goose, thank you for your post.

No, not a Rem M-7 and it's not mine either. The ammo is for a relative and will be shot from a Marlin Levergun. Sorry, I should have mentioned that in the first post.
 
35 Rem does not have much of a shoulder. Make sure you set the shoulder as long as possible while insuring the loaded rounds will still chamber in your rifle. Precision sizing helps accuracy.
I use 38 grains of 3031 with any good 200 gr RN bullet in my Rem 141 and 1952 Marlin.
I use both RN and spitzer in my 760 Rem.
I use 40 grains of 3031 with the 180 gr Speer.

These loads produce pressure ring bulging about halfway around the case like factory loads.
Two grains less produce no bulging and the hard to find brass might last longer.
Strong modern rifles can stand more pressure than wimpy factory ammo but the .35 Rem case is not very heavy so don't think you can make a .358 out of it.
 
I have a Thompson gen 1 contender in .35 remington, It's a monster to shoot, so I don't shoot it often at all. It was my late father's deer gun of choice so I hang onto it. If your looking for a good solid large game caliber for northeastern areas, it's hard to beat. I still have his dies and cases, bullets, powder etc, but haven't taken the time to work up a load for it. In a rifle I can see the attraction, but in a pistol configuration it's just too punishing.

AR-Newbie: for the most awesome load in that Contender, try 37grs of H335 behind a 200 spitzer bullet. this load throws more fire than any gun I have ever shot in my life. It will absolutely blind you at night from the flash! I used to use it shooting steel back in the 80's and it would turn heads everytime you pull the trigger!
 
Two grains less produce no bulging and the hard to find brass might last longer.

Since you brought it up, I figured out a way to make 35 Rem from .308 brass. . . yes, including resizing the head. It's not the easiest conversion, but 200 .308 cases and 2 hour's work (annealing, trimming, neck turning, etc) makes about a lifetime supply.
 
I have (3) .35 Rems the first I got about 25 years ago. I noticed brass was not common in my area back then. As the availability of it disappeared I spent several years buying once fired brass when I could find it until I had about 600 cases. So I have not had to form any.
I have formed .308 brass to make 6.5 Jap. That was an adventure. I cracked 2 .44 Mag steel sizer dies swaging the case heads.



Since you brought it up, I figured out a way to make 35 Rem from .308 brass. . . yes, including resizing the head. It's not the easiest conversion, but 200 .308 cases and 2 hour's work (annealing, trimming, neck turning, etc) makes about a lifetime supply.
 
I forgot to add this link to gmdr.com.
There is a lot of light weight cast bullet loads with pistol powders. If you use those loads remember most can fit a double or triple charge in the case so develop a means to prevent that. Some of the loads were accurate and some were not. You get to pick your plinking loads from many different powders.


http://www.gmdr.com/lever/lowveldata.htm


OK, while I have loaded for many cartridges I have not loaded the 35 Remington for accuracy.

Yes, I know every rifle and barrel is different so please don't go through that. Much of the time an accurate load is an accurate load. I'm asking for Pet Loads only, not common ammo. If you are kind enough to share your most accurate load combinations I will of course tweak it for my rifle if needed.

Any powder or bullet is fine, I will buy powder if need be. I have many of the powders listed in the manuals I have. I'm just looking for a good starting place for an accurate hunting load because time is tight.

Thank you in advance.
 
I have formed .308 brass to make 6.5 Jap. That was an adventure. I cracked 2 .44 Mag steel sizer dies swaging the case heads.

That's quite a lot of force! Looking at 6.5 Jap the head swaging process must be similar to 35 Rem. I used a .30-03 family body die (any of the .30-03/.30-06 decedents, cut off just off just below the shoulders) to swage the heads down. . . and plenty of lanoline lube. I appreciated having a Rock Chucker that day.
 
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