44 mag brass +/- length specs after trimming

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Newbieloader

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Just getting started reloading 44 mag for my Henry Big Boy but I can't find the +/- length specs after trimming. my reload manual stated 1.275 as the desired length but for a reasonably consistent crimp is the brass length + 0.002/-0.005 or what?
 
I just keep them trimmed to the same lengths within SAAMI spec.. +/- .001" will produce consistent crimps, any more than that and you'll start seeing a noticeable degree of inconsistency. But many reloaders don't trim handgun brass at all, wheel gun or other wise. I'm one of the odd balls who trims all brass.

GS
 
^^+1

Can't imagine a couple thou' meaning anything for a roll crimped handgun cartridge. One reason I use the simple, cheap Lee trimmer is once I have the length pilot in, I trim if it's over - rarely much if any, and none if you're at or under. You have to have brass pretty well out of spec if that doesn't work. The gun and target never know the difference.
 
^^What Eb1 said. I have never trimmed my 45colt, 38 special, or 357 mag brass. Some of them may vary a little but the crimp is more than consistent enough to produce accurate ammo. In fact, I make my own match ammo for Bullseye style shooting and I dont trim that brass either. I do segregate it by head stamp for bullseye loads, but thats it.
 
Speer recommended 1.275 as a trim to length, but I somehow managed to trim my first batch to 1.270, and have been trimming to that length ever since. Not long ago I accidentally trimmed 50 to 1.260. Arghh. But it's all good, they'll stretch in time.

Pick something reasonable that is under the max length and go for it. And of course, some folks don't trim them, but I would measure and make sure they are under max length.

but for a reasonably consistent crimp is the brass length + 0.002/-0.005 or what?
Trimming can easily be held to + 0.002/-0.005, and most times much better, but you will hardly notice even a .010 difference in the shortest to longest unless you look closely, which I do. I like good consistent crimps, and the way to do that is trim cases. +.001/-.001 variance is not an unreasonable expectation. -.002/+.002 is OK.

Welcome to THR
 
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Never have trimmed 44 mag cant recall ever measuring them,
But you guy's have got me thinking it might be a good idea .

Might be one more thing to OCD on :banghead:
 
Lyman's 49th says "Trim to" length is 1.275"

If you really wanna trim 'em, that's the length to use.
(personally? I've never trimmed handgun brass)

The key is to have 'em ALL the exact same length.
Then you get the most consistent crimp.

And welcome to "the high road"
 
Buy some new Starline and the length will be consistent enough you won't need to trim.
 
44 Rem Mag Trim Length...

I have a sheet that I printed off in 2000, from some place & it has 1.285 -1.280 numbers on it . However there is an [*] by the numbers & I have no idea what that did refer to ,didn't get that info when it printed. My 2¢. Russ.
 
I have been reloading for my 5 .44 Magnums for nearly 27 years, and haven't measured a case in 26 years. In my .44 Magnum rifle, a Puma, the case length and OAL have little effect on feeding, chambering, or accuracy (except with SWC bullets which will only feed if loaded into Special brass). For the other 4 guns I always seat the bullet to the cannalure or the crimp groove and have no problems. With normal variances in case length there is no noticeable difference in crimping. Until you're looking for 1/2 minute accuracy from your rifle, just seat to the crimp groove and because it is a tube magazine, put a firm roll crimp on the cartridge and disregard the case specs and OAL measurements...
 
If I am starting out with new to me cases whether factory fresh or what not, I usually will pull out 20-25 and measure them. I will pull out the shortest one and set it aside. Then I set my trimmer to the lenght it takes to just face off, or square up the mouth on that one. After that I will trim the rest of them to that length.

It might not make a hill of beans difference in reality, but in my mind I have gone one extra step to producing more accurate ammo. I mean if your not going to work on things to make better ammo, why reload in the first place.

Besides I like having 1/2 MOA revolver ammo as well as rifle ammo.
 
Most of the replies are just personal opinion/personal experience. For me, I don't measure cases and in the tens of thousands of .44 Magnums I've fired, there has been no noticeable difference between those uniformed to length and those picked out of the brass bucket randomly. (my OCD kicks in and I sort by head stamp and clean my brass with walnut, as I prefer the satin shine over the high polish, but I know that all this is MY preferences for MY ammo). If a reloader wants to measure and trim straight walled handgun cases, good for him. He is reloading for his gun, with his time, for his own satisfaction. If he wants to clean/uniform every primer pocket every loading, weigh each case, separate by head stamp and lot number then he should do that. It's his decision (the reloading police won't kick down his reloading room door and arrest him for "non-standard/unnecessary reloading methods"). In my personal experience there are other things to work on for absolute best accuracy from a particular gun than case length, especially in a .44 Magnum.
 
I just recently got a 44 Mag. I have loaded 44 spl for many years. I do not trim the brass. Just never seemed important.
mdi sums it up very well.
 
.44 Case trimming

I recently started reloading for my .44 mag Vaquero. I got a single stage Lee anniversary reload kit and a trimm tool for .44 mag the tool Lee makes for this takes the guess work out of the case length. You might look into getting one I have found it an indispensible item in my reloading
 
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