98 Mauser or O3A3 for custom build?

[texas chase]

I've been wanting to start a semi-custom build in 9.3x62. My thought was a nostalgic one - build one in the action it was originally designed for. Found a somewhat trashed 1908 Brazilian mauser that I believe would make a good candidate for a donor action.

However, I like the O3A3 action (which is basically a Mauser) and found some stripped actions for sale. Hmmm...

What do you think?

(please do not respond if you're going to freak out about using mil surp for a build. I will not "cut up" a perfectly good mil surp for a sporter but I will happily use a trashed one or one that's already been sporterized.)

 

[valnar]

There are people who will give good reasons, and people who will give no reasons. I'm in the latter category.

Use the 98 Mauser action.

 

[tahunua001]

1903s and 98s are getting to be hard to find. have you looked at big 5 or other sporting goods chain?
VZ24 and turkish mausers can be had pretty cheaply in comparison and being 8mm might be able to hold better accuracy when done than a 30 cal bored out to 9.3. also IIRC the 9.3s had straight bolt handles so either of those might look more like the real deal when done than a bent bolt version.

good luck with your build.

 

[R.W.Dale]

I personally would start with a gun that's already been sporteeized (read cheap) and save a ton of work by only changing the caliber or I'd start with a commercial CRF action and again save a lot of the work involved ijn making a stock military action into a passable sporter. Ie refinish, bolt work, trigger, scope mounts ect ect




posted via that mobile app with the sig lines everyone complaints about

 

[iiranger]

Simple to me...

Paul Mauser started working with bolt actions around the time of the Am. civil war and continued thru 1898 when he thought he had about "nailed it." Yes, there have been improvements in steel, but design remained. (I would check the proof date on that Brazil and think real hard. If much before 1920, 7x57, 257 Rob, etc. maybe, but NOT 7/08...)

POINT: There have been millions and millions of Mausers made and modifications are too numerous to list. Whatever you want, chances are there are several sources. Assuming the action is long enough, built for the X x 57mm cartridges... I would lean this way real hard.

I love and respect Springfields 03 BUT the numbers made were a whole lot less. Since Uncle Sam used to drop them on your porch for $18.00 surplus (and ammo was a whole $0.01 per with the gun...) there are many out and many butchered and it was made for a longer cartridge, 7.62x63...

The mods are not as many and the guns are rising in value, and... I would not fear putting the money into an 03A3 or any gun after 1920. You should be able to get what you want... Still with Mauser available all over the world I would lean that way. Luck. Happy Holidays. Happy Trails.

 

[morcey2]

Of the 2, I'd go with a 98 of some sort. It's not a huge difference, but it has better gas handling capabilities in the will-probably-never-happen pierced-primer/ruptured-case situation. Like others have said, look around for an already modified example and then the barrel swap is the only major issue.

I have a 1903 custom rifle that I inherited from my grandpa that is awesome. I also have a bubbafied spanish M44 (Spanish Air Force 98 Mauser) that I was given by my dad. I put probably too much money into the M44 before doing much research, but it's a great shooter now. Still has the original 8x57 stepped barrel. I also have a Sporterized (halfway betwixt bubba and custom) 1910 Mexican mauser in 7x57 that is turning into my main hunting rifle. On top of that, I'm having a 257 Roberts built on a yugo-captured K98 receiver. _AND_ I'm building a 6.5x55 swede on a spanish M93 action. I also have a M1909 Argentine that has been reamed out to 30-06 (31-06, really) and was chopped that very likely may become a 6mm Remington. This is getting expensive. Don't tell my wife.

I put $450 into the M44 getting it D&T'd and having the bolt bent. I didn't ask to have it blued, but the smith did it. That was almost half of the cost and I didn't have the backbone ten years ago to argue with him about it. He did really good work though.

I've seen a couple of sporterized Mausers at local pawn shops going from anywhere between $150 and $800 depending on the shop and the rifle. I almost grabbed the $150 one and I wish I would have. It was a VZ-24 action in 270 win. The mag was too short to be useful and the barrel was only 19" long which seems pointless to me, but everything else was in great shape. It would have made a great base for the 6mm.

Enough of the halloween rambling. To sum up: Either a 1903 or a standard length 98-style action should work fine. But lose the european crap and get it in 35 Whelen.

Matt

 

[dirtyjim]

I've built a lot of sporters over the years and if this is going to be your first build do not use a previously sporterized rifle as a donor. the low starting price does not even out when you count in the time it takes to fix the previous owners mistakes or sloppy work.
the people who say to use a previously sporterized rifle as a base have not built enough of them to see the error or they have not built any rifles at all.
also don't pay any attention to the collectors they see the end result as a ruined military rifle regardless of how the rifle turns out or the condition of the donor rifle.

if your wanting to do a classic style build in 9.3x62 both actions would be fine but i would build them slightly different.
for a mauser i prefer gew 98's, argentines, brno 98/22's and brazilians for open sight builds simply because of the nicer crests and receiver markings, on scoped builds i prefer czech zv-24's, mod98's and fn 1950's since the crest will be covered.

on the mauser build i would use a lothar walther #5130 contour barrel since its setup for a recknagel banded rear sight similar to the mauser model A sporting rifles, banded front sight and sling swivel, great american europen classic or mauser model A pattern stock, argentine 1909 bottom metal with a wiesners straddle floorplate. no scope

on the springfield i would do it in the wundhammer style, great american edward s. white stock pattern with the side panels rasped off, lyman long slide 48, reshape the rear action tang and front of the receiver wundhammer style, barrel band sling swivel with stud in the forearm right behind the schnable, 24" medium sporter wieght barrel.

way to many people just slap them in a bishop stock, forge the bolt and put a set of weaver mounts on instead of taking the time and spending the money to do it right and have something that can be passed down or actually sold for decent money if the need arises

 

[texas chase]

But lose the european crap and get it in 35 Whelen.

Matt

Don't worry, that's another project for another day.

 

[Baba Louie]

One could opine that the 2 piece firing pin in the 03 is a weak link in that design... and/or one could argue the extended cocking piece of the 03's bolt allows a second try if necessary or allows you to decock the rifle with ease (as opposed to snap dry firing each time)...

Flip a coin.

Cannot go wrong with either but since you're using a European cartridge, Mauser action. (no real logic, just a gut call)

 

[critter]

I've made several on already 'bubbed' M98's and they work really well. Depending on the degree of 'bubbization', price can be significantly reduced.

I've made 25-06, .270 and .35 Whelens-all same case head size. That precludes bolt face work and, in these cases, no rail work was needed to make them feed 100%.

Use a quality barrel maker and you will most likely have a really accurate shooter when finished.

My starting actions were 1909 Argentine (for the 25-06), a Nazi era action well 'bubbaized' for the .270 and two .35's built on VZ24 actions. The VZ actions are really good starting points if you can find one. I still have one in its original configuration.

Good luck, as this is a fun, educational and enjoyable project.

 

[Float Pilot]

I like both.....
The 1903-A3 action has the two piece firing pin. But they have worked for over 100 years.
The 1903A3 has a gas relief hole... toss-up...

One thing,,,, If you were going with a classic safari style rifle, without a scope...... THEN.. The 1903A3 action would allow you to use stripper clips for the 9.3x62mm....

You could do it with the M-98 action as well, but since they are a touch shorter, you would have to mill a notch on the front receiver ring so the bullet nose can clear.

 

[tahoe2]

mauser fan

The cartridge in question is a 9.3x62 Mauser, after all ! Go 98 Mauser !
I do like the ballistics, 375 H&H class round without the recoil.
250 grn & 286 grn bullets hit like a mack truck !
I wanna go shootin with morcey & his mausers !

 

[texas chase]

For those who have mentioned stripper clips, don't really care for them in a hunting rifle. So thats not really a factor.

I'm heavily leaning towards the mauser. This is going to be a fun (and educational as some have mentioned) project. I'm planning on taking a few yrs to complete this to spread out the cost and actually enjoy it for a while too.

Should be fun!

 

[dirtyjim]

since your going to spread it out over several years i'd suggest buying some realy nice bottom metal and a very nice stock blank. i think around $1000-1200 spent here will pay off a lot more in the long run and will separate your rifle from the run of the mill sporters.
hunterbid.com has a lot of very nice turkish walnut blanks. for bottom metal i'd go to Duane Wiebe or blackburn. i like wiebe bottom metal on bigbores and blackburn on small and medium, and since swift bought out blackburn they actually deliver within a reasonable amount of time now instead of a year after the date they quote you.

 

[lefteyedom]

Building a sporting rifle out of a military rifle is a great hobby. As to your question of 03 verse 98 Mauser.

Build the 03 Springfield if you want to recreate a classic mid 1950 sporterizes rifle. I love this type of rifle.

If you want the best functioning hunting rifle then build a Mauser. All the major parts to do the build are readily available.

Most of all build what you want, with out worrying about resell value. Build it to keep it.

 

[Elkins45]

More options for the Mauser, and the donor rifle can probably be had for half the cost of a decent 03.

 

[351 WINCHESTER]

I have an 03 with a serial no. in the 860xxx range. Double heat treated. Any concerns about this 1918 action?

 

[Halal Pork]

I'd buy a Zastava NIB and go from there for a Mauser sporter build. I think a brand new Zastava goes for less than most actions I see for sale in good shape.

 

[dirtyjim]

I'd buy a Zastava NIB and go from there for a Mauser sporter build. I think a brand new Zastava goes for less than most actions I see for sale in good shape.

that would defeat the purpose of building your own sporter.
the zastava barreled actions are ok but you don't see high end customs built on them

 

[Art Eatman]

I guess I'd go with a Mauser action just because it's for a 9.3 cartridge.

 

[Halal Pork]

that would defeat the purpose of building your own sporter.
the zastava barreled actions are ok but you don't see high end customs built on them

My point was a brand new Zastava costs less than many actions alone. For a build, I'd buy a new Zastava, replace the barrel, safety, and trigger and then drop it in a new stock. If that is defeating the purpose, then I misunderstood the intent.

 

[dirtyjim]

i buy somewhere between 8-10 barreled actions or donor rifles a year and most of them are $150 or less. the only ones i pay more for are oberndorfs.
the only parts i actually want is the action, bolt & bolt stop, the rest of the parts are sold off.
having a c&r helps with getting a good deal by bypassing the ridiculously high transfer fees.
i've yet to see complete zastava actions for under $200

to me the problem with using a zastava as a base is that i prefer the look of the military actions with the stripper clip cut and thumbcut in the side.
some people prefer the look of a commercial action, i'm just not one of them

 

[Halal Pork]

Jim, you obviously know a lot more about this than me. If you're buying them up at $200 a pop, then my suggestion doesn't make sense. Please disregard.

 

[velocette]

To go in a different direction, perhaps consider the 1917 Enfield as a beginning.
The '17 Enfield action is stronger than either the Mauser or '03 Springfield & was commonly rechambered in largebore magnums. Parts & upgrade pieces are readily available. (See Brownells) The magazine well is larger than the 03 or Mauser & will hold more large cartridges, it is also a long action suitable for long rounds. There are many of these rifles available at reasonable costs that have been sporterized in years past. They do work into some very nice sporting rifles when you add decent workmanship and parts.

Roger

 

[Curator]

Go with a high-number '03 or '03-A3 as the magazine length will accommodate the longer 9.3X63 cartridge whereas the 8X57 will not. I have built several .35 Whelens on both '03 and M98 actions and by far the longer '03 action worked out better unless you intend in seating your bullets real deep. '03 actions are still relatively plentiful and not that expensive.