richyoung
Member
The pistol is a Dan Wesson Pointman Major 1911 in .45 ACP, serial number in the low 1000's, purchased used for $540 plus tax. Before its first trip to the range, it absolutely refused to feed hollowpoints, (or anything else for that matter), from the factory magazine, or any other one I had on hand. First trip to the pistol smith, and $120 later, I have a throated barrel, polished feed ramp, new sear, trigger job, re-tensioned extractor, and the edges smoothed on the slide and barrel locking lugs, along with a strong recommendation to use ONLY Chip McCormick Power Mags in the arm. $100 to Midway, and I'm ready for my first trip to the range. Numerous malfuntions, including once with the firing pin stop dropping down & locking up the pistol. Most common problem was rounds going straight into the feed ramp, stopping dead level and blocking the slide partially open, but mixed in with some failure to extracts and some real wildly variable ejection. Empy cases showed evidence of firing pin drag, and there were a couple of rounds that went "click" instead of "bang". Plus it didn't shoot groups - it shot PATTERNS! Upon disassembly, also disovered that the barrel bushing was very loose in the slide - only the tension of the recoil system had created the illusion of tight lockup. Also, the extractor had been rotating in its tunnel, to the point that it had left marks on the back of the slide stop. Back to the smith... :banghead: $170 later, I have a new Ed Brown stainless steel barrel bushing so tight, you can barely turn it with the nylon wrench, a new Ed Brown "Hard Core" bar stock tool steel extractor, a fitted EGW (Or Briley, I can't remember...) firing pin stop so tight you have to drive it out of the slot with a brass drift), polished firing pin, a heavier main spring, "tweaked" magazine springs, and a pronouncement that "there's nothing left to fix" on it. He blames the feedramp hangups on a slightly oversize magazine well, and a slightly low mag catch. He also says that my method of charging the gun is wrong - I pull the slide back with the original (rear) serrations all the way, and then let go. He says I should recharge the pistol by tripping the slide latch, or that I should put my hand over the top of the front of the slide, (grasping the front serrations), and "pop" the slide back and forth very rapidly. My questions for you experts out there are:
1. I am very uncomfortable with the idea of putting my fingers that close to the muzzle of a pistol I am attempting to charge with live rounds - should I just "get over it"? I've never had a 1911 before that you couldn't load by just pulling back on the slide and letting go - since this is intended to be a carry gun, I am quite concerned.
2. Any deas on how to fix this, short of frame replacement? Who makes Dan Wesson's stainless steel frames?
3. Has anyone had any experience with Dan Wesson customer service? Is there even a CHANCE that they might cut me a break on a replacement frame, seeeing as how it's a manufacturing defect, even though I'm not the original purchaser?
Needless to say, I'm not real happy - I thought DW was a quality manufacturer....
1. I am very uncomfortable with the idea of putting my fingers that close to the muzzle of a pistol I am attempting to charge with live rounds - should I just "get over it"? I've never had a 1911 before that you couldn't load by just pulling back on the slide and letting go - since this is intended to be a carry gun, I am quite concerned.
2. Any deas on how to fix this, short of frame replacement? Who makes Dan Wesson's stainless steel frames?
3. Has anyone had any experience with Dan Wesson customer service? Is there even a CHANCE that they might cut me a break on a replacement frame, seeeing as how it's a manufacturing defect, even though I'm not the original purchaser?
Needless to say, I'm not real happy - I thought DW was a quality manufacturer....