Advice on Building My Own AR:

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LJ-MosinFreak-Buck

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For all you AR enthusiasts/builders, I was wondering if you all could lead me in the right direction with parts/tools for a one-time, maybe second down the road, build.

Here's what I want out of this rifle:
20" barrel or a 16". Not totally sure, I like the look of an A2 or an A3.
I want a flat-top upper, with forward assist and shell deflector.
Not sure on standard hand-guards, or doing rails.
I'm not sure on front sight, if I should go with standard block with the sight, or if I should go low profile (for rails, whatnot)

Anywho, to simplify, give me some ideas within these specs, how much should it cost, or if I should just buy one as is?
 
I would look at possibly buying a kit from Palmetto State armory. Lots of options. All you need is the kit and a stripped lower. The kit comes with everything you need for the build except the stripped lower. The lower needs to be shipped to a FFL but the kit can be shipped right to your house.

I have a PSA rifle I built and am very pleased with it.
 
+1 on Palmetto State Armory.

I took a different route and purchased a lower with plans of purchasing a BCM upper. I later found an upper from PSA that also had an FN "machine gun steel" barrel (I'm a sucker for gimmicks). So it's PSA all the way around and I couldn't be happier. It appears PSA offers a high-quality product at a very competitive price.
 
+2 for PSA, these are down the road from me great people, great parts,

i would advise going with a stripped lower and buying a completed upper. The range of options are infinite. building a lower is not terribly difficult and requires common tools you may or may not already have. Esp, if this is a one time build, no need to get overly invested in tools for a one time build.

I am now on my 2nd build, having "built" my first AR complete from stipped lower and stripped upper
 
Wow, no wonder PSA is sold out on so much stuff these days, eh? But I will agree with the other posters -- I just finished a PSA build myself (flat-top 20" gov't-profile with collapsible stock), which I reviewed in this thread: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=655967, and it only ran me about $750 after it was all said and done, including shipping and transfer fee. But I built mine with all Magpul goodies (CTR stock and MOE handguard, trigger guard, and pistol grip). If you just want a basic setup, you could do it for at least a hundred less if you just bought one of PSA's kits with all standard furniture.

Also, if you don't already have one, you should buy an AR armorer's wrench for $25 or so. You would also benefit from having a punch set. Those are really the only tools you need for putting together a lower. The upper is a little more involved -- if it is your first build, I would just go with a complete upper, like what comes with the PSA kits.
 
My advise is simpler is better, mid-length 16" guns are smoother than 16" carbines, lightweight (not pencil) barrels balance and carry easier, but midweight barrels have a little less recoil and seem more "shootable" to me. That is totally subjective of course. I have both uppers I linked to, and am happy/very happy with both.

If I was to order another, I would go with BCM, regardless of the type/style/weight of the barrel/upper. The front sight on my PSA was canted ever so slightly to the left, and BCM was simply better to deal with. I am very happy with my BCM upper.

My two cents, for whatever it is worth. These two uppers were my "pre-election purchases". I only bought one pre-last election. Well, and a complete lower.
 
Firstly, I would never suggest the first-time AR buyer build his rifle from scratch, just to theoretically save a few bucks.

When you say "build", I always assume you're building the upper AND lower. IMHO, assembling a lower and slapping a pre-built upper on it is not "building" a rifle.

So you will need an armorer's wrench and punch set. If you build your upper, you will also need a torque wrench, a forend wrench adaptable to a ratchet, a set of vise blocks, no-go gauge. If you build a flat-top, you'll need a fixture for holding the forend and receiver square while you torque the forend locknut. You have to ask yourself if it is really worth buying $200 worth of tools just to build one rifle, or is it something you will need again and again.
 
It really depends on your level of mechanical ability.

Somebody with 'calibrated fingers' (a good amount of hands on mechanical assembly time), and a decent set of basic hand tools can likely assemble an AR (upper and lower) in about two hours. The only 'critical torque' is the barrel nut and it is such a wide range (off the top of my head >30 ftlbs, <80 ft lbs) that it would take an effort not to get it right.

OTOH, I know people who can't change a lightbulb without ending up in the emergency room.

In the Current market, it is tough to build cheaper than you can buy, but it is always more fun to build it yourself, and you can get exactly what you want.

For what you want, I couldn't guess, but I'd advise:

16 inch 'mid weight' barrel in Stainless, Mid length gas system w/Railed gas block. *I* dislike 'M4' or 'Goverment' profile, as I have no need to attach a grenade launcher. *I* like stainless, as I live on a boat.

Free Floating Hand Guard- instead of a 'quad rail', get a plain one, and add rails when and where you want them (provided you can drill and tap).

I like the ACE stocks- I find the "entry" model a bit shorter than ideal for me, but the 'Rifle' model is a good fit. DO bear in mind that a rifle length will run a bit smoother than a short or adjustable stock.

I have seen a few cases where an upper with 'M4' feed ramps combined with a barrel with 'M16' or 'Rifle' feed ramps has created issues. 'M4' feed ramps on the barrel, with Standard feed ramps on the Upper seems to be OK. I haven't had any problems buying both Upper and Barrel with M4 style ramps, but it is a wrinkle to be aware of.
 
Well budget-wise, I'm going to have to save for a bit. But as for what I'm doing with it? Range rifle as primary function, defense as secondary, but not an indoors-defensive rifle, which is why I'm satisfied with a 20-incher barrel.
 
I just finished my first build, and most of an AR build is a tabletop project. Other than the castle nut, barrel nut and pinned FSB you use hand tools (or your hands themselves) to assemble the rifle.

I think the only decision you really want to make before you get started is the barrel length and gas system length. That in turn drives decisions like the handguards and receiver extension that you will need.

I would suggest you decide on the barrel length, gas system and rifling twist and then buy the assembled upper (usually includes the barrel, barrel nut, delta ring/spring/clip, FSB and upper). This saves you from having to torque the barrel nut to upper and having to buy the more expensive tools and there are no worries about canted front sights, etc.

Get a wrench for the castle nut and a set of spring pin punches and you have most of what you need to assemble the rest of the AR. Suggested extras include several front takedown pin springs and detents, or alternatively a bottle of whiskey and some knee pads to assist in your search when they go flying.
 
When I was building my PSA 16" m4 hammer forged build, after I was done, it wouldn't accept mags correctly, even empty ones. I had to dremel down the area where the mag lips contact the upper receiver. Mags fit just fine now, but I'm worried about if it'll function correctly or if it'll cause any problems in the future. I haven't shot it yet, so we'll see after I take it out to the range.
 
Order lower seperately to bypass excise tax.

Buy Complete midlength upper. You can add options for forends and such. Build lower.

PSA, Bravo, Spikes, DSG Arms and Aim Surplus will have some nice options.

edit: to ChCx2744: I would have called PSA and sent it back.
 
Yes, but I don't want anything fancy, either. I mean, if I decide to put some optics on it, okay, but I'm more along the lines of using A2 sights (clamp-on to flat-top, removable so if I do decide to put an optic on there, I can).

I'm more than happy using the regular plastic hand-guards, but a free-float tube wouldn't be so bad, either.
 
yeah a free float tube can be aslow as $50 for a tubular handguard or $75-95 for a quad rail YHM or similar brand of course there are diehards who will tell you daniel defense "yes i have one" is the best of the best must have etc.etc but $350 for a handguard on your first rifle is a little overkill.

this has a flat bottom rides the sand bags good, i use this on my 24" barreled setup : http://www.midwayusa.com/product/637569/badger-ordnance-tactical-stabilizer-free-float-tube-handguard-with-three-2-1-2-removable-picatinny-rails-ar-15-rifle-length-aluminum-black
 
As of now, I just want something basic, but want the Forward Assist, shell deflector, and flat-top. That way I can add optics later if I so choose. I'm an irons guy. I only own three scopes, but only one is installed on a rifle.
 
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