Advice on starting reloading .357mag

[khuengo]

Hello guys, I am starting the process of reloading for my Ruger Security Six .357mag. Let me babble a bit about myself so that you could give me some exact advice for me. Please bear in mind that I am in very tight budget yet I want to reload to max economically and efficient of quality of ammo.

I am planning to reload 38Spec and .357mag only for now. Later might be 7.62x39 and 9mm Luger.

I already bought Lee Pro 100 reloading kit for 38spec and 357mag and Lee's Modern Reloading Second Edition manual.

I keep all used brass (200 of 38Spec and 300 of .357mag) from my shooting. I guess for now I do not need to buy more brass.

I think I would be able to set up the reloading system and perhaps for the beginning, I will do single stage first.

My questions are:

1. How do you know if the used case is reloadable except for reading the infor on the case box (sometime it is not there)

2. I shoot Ruger Security Six revolver and I could safely keep all used cases from sand and dirt, do I need to clean cases before reloading?

3. How do I clean cases, especially the inside ? I do not have a tumbler and not plan to buy (because I am in very tight budget).

4. How many times could I reload the case provided that I check all cases and see no crack, dent etc....?

Here are some more specific questions:

5. Bullets: Should I start with lead bullets (cheaper) or brass jacketed bullets? Is there any different in using lead bullets and brass jacketed bullets in loading, not shooting?

6. Bullets: where could I buy cheap yet good lead bullets and how much they cost in 500 counts or 1000 counts?

7. Can bullets for 38spec be used interchangable for .357mag?

8. Primer: What kind of primer I should buy? Lee claimed that their system works well with CCI and Winchester.

9. Primer: again, where could I buy cheap yet good primer? and how much they cost in 1000 counts?

10. Powder: What kind of safe and cheap yet good powder should I buy? And how much they cost in 1 lb?

11. Powder: again, where could I buy powder in 1 lb?

I checked prices for all above components on midwayusa.com and cheaperthandirt.com, however, they have some many branches and types for bullets, primer and powder. I do not know what to choose from. Please advice.

12. Midwayusa and cheaperthandirt charged hazard Material fee (20 bucks for each order). Is there any good reliable site that does not charge that fee but still sell at the same price?

Thanks a lot guys. This is great forum for me.

 

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Here's you some answers.

My questions are:

1. How do you know if the used case is reloadable except for reading the infor on the case box (sometime it is not there).

Generally speaking, if it's boxer primed, you can reload it pretty easily. Most USA made ammo is easily reloadable. If you don't have the case box, tumble the brass to get it clean, you can shine a flashlight down into the case and look for a single primer hole. If there's two holes, it's berdan primed and you'll have a hard time reloading it here in the United States. It's reloadable, but most reloading equipment is set up for the much easier to reload boxer primed stuff.

2. I shoot Ruger Security Six revolver and I could safely keep all used cases from sand and dirt, do I need to clean cases before reloading?

Yes, the simplest way (so you don't have to worry about sand and dirt) is to get yourself a tumbler and some tumbling media. I use corn cob media along with a capful of Nu Finish car polish. Cleans the brass, shines it a bit and gives it a bit of extra slickness to go through the dies with.

3. How do I clean cases, especially the inside ? I do not have a tumbler and not plan to buy (because I am in very tight budget).

An alternative to tumbling is a vinegar solution. You can get the recipe from the NRA.

4. How many times could I reload the case provided that I check all cases and see no crack, dent etc....?

With straight walled pistol brass, you can reload it a awful long time. Inspect the cases after cleaning and before each reload and discard any with heavy rings at the base and cracks, etc near the mouth.

Here are some more specific questions:

5. Bullets: Should I start with lead bullets (cheaper) or brass jacketed bullets?

That's a personal choice. Lead is cheaper and I would recommend some type of wadcutter or semi wadcutter. For example, I reload 200 grain SWC in my .45 ACP.


Is there any different in using lead bullets and brass jacketed bullets in loading, not shooting?

You have to set up with a bullet seater stem made for the bullet shape you're using, depending on the type of bullet. Most die sets come with the most popular shapes for that caliber.

6. Bullets: where could I buy cheap yet good lead bullets and how much they cost in 500 counts or 1000 counts? The best place I've found to buy lead bullets is at your local gun show, assuming they have them there. Save on freight that way, as the dealer deals with the freight in his price. I can't quote on cost, because I haven't bought any in a good while.

7. Can bullets for 38spec be used interchangable for .357mag? yes[, though I would advise mostly reloading for .38, practicing with that and reloading a small amount with a .357 similar in potency to what you'll be using for protection./B]

8. Primer: What kind of primer I should buy? Lee claimed that their system works well with CCI and Winchester. Either brand is good and available locally at stores, gunshows and can be bought over the internet..

9. Primer: again, where could I buy cheap yet good primer? and how much they cost in 1000 counts? See the answer to item 8. Current price, I don't know, because I buy in huge bulks from the guy that brings shotgun shells to our gun club. If you have a buddy that belongs to a gunclub with a shotgun range, that'd be the place to buy your primers, powder and possibly brass.

10. Powder: What kind of safe and cheap yet good powder should I buy? And how much they cost in 1 lb? Post another post asking for the "old standby" for .38/.357. Use that powder and the load advice folks give you first, as you increase your chances your first reloads turn out well. If you can, buy larger quantities, such as 8 lbs, as that's where you'll realize larger savings.

11. Powder: again, where could I buy powder in 1 lb? Local gunshops, see item 9, gunshows.

I checked prices for all above components on midwayusa.com and cheaperthandirt.com, however, they have some many branches and types for bullets, primer and powder. I do not know what to choose from. Please advice. I would not advise you to shop these folks for the items you want. There's better places (see above) to buy your components and not have to pay hazard fees, etc.

12. Midwayusa and cheaperthandirt charged hazard Material fee (20 bucks for each order). Is there any good reliable site that does not charge that fee but still sell at the same price?

Places that ship to you have to charge that. Hence the advice to try and find a local source, such as a gun club buddy or a gun show. Those are probably your best options.

Hope this helps,

Dave

 

[TooTaxed]

Dave gave you good advice. I have only a few comments:

Besides Berdan-primed cases, aluminum and steel cases are non-reloadable.

You can shoot .38-Spl cartridges in your .357 Mag, but not the reverse.

You must bell your case mouths for loading lead or plated bullets. I haven't found that to be necessary for jacketed bullets with a slightly beveled base.

The cheapest bullets you can load are lead bullets you have cast yourself...but it's a lot of work, and it takes money to get the equipment.

Price your powder in 1, 4, and 8-lb cans...you may find it worthwhile to buy the larger cans.

Put a notice on the bulletin board of your shooting range as to what you need...you may either find someone who will sell to you out of their stock at a bargain price, or find someone to combine orders to buy cheaper in large quantities.

Gun shop primers can be found for about $18/1000...though many are more expensive (a local store sells a carton of 5000 for $105, plus tax!). I got my last batch at a recent gunshow for $15/1000...a bargain!

You can occasionally find bargains on bullets in the EBAY auctions...no sales tax on out of state purchases...but be sure to consider shipping costs in your bid! You are generally better off at a gun show, even paying the sales tax...

 

[The Bushmaster]

Did anyone mention reading and owning at least two (2) loading manuals???

 

[eagle24]

khuengo, I've been reloading for 25 yrs and still use a single stage press. I enjoy reloading as much as shooting and don't mind that the single stage is slower. Most of what I load is 38sp plinking loads for use in my .357 mag. I just ordered some 148 gr double ended wad cutters from midway. They are magnus brand cast bullets, cost less than $20 per 500, and are very hard cast and don't cause leading of the barrel at less than 900 fps. I have used them for years. I also use Bullseye powder in my plinking loads. Bullseye is a fast powder thus the charge will be low and you can load a lot of rounds. It will also be below $20 per lb. Like bushmaster said, get yourself a good reloading manual and it will answer a lot of questions. Stick to the manual and experiment with different charges and bullets. I've found that the bullet makes the most difference in accuracy and the 148gr dewc shoots great in my gun. Have fun!

 

[Standing Wolf]

Did anyone mention reading and owning at least two (2) loading manuals???

That's an excellent recommendation; I personally see it as a plus more than an actual necessity, especially if one's on a tight budget.

 

[HankB]

10. Powder: What kind of safe and cheap yet good powder should I buy? You'll find no one powder will cover the FULL range from mild .38 special loads to maximum .357 Magnum loads.

A very fast powder such as "Bullseye" is good for target loads, but charges are very small, and as someone new to reloading, you'll have to be very, VERY careful not to put multiple charges in one case.

A slower burning powder such as "2400" or "296" is good for maximum loads in the .357, but unsuitable for .38 special or reduced .357 loads.

A good compromise is a medium-burning powder - my favorite in this category is "SR4756," which burns more cleanly than the often-recommended "Unique" and will cover the gamut from standard .38 Special to mid-level .357 Magnum.

Loading data is available from the IMR powder website, and is contained in many loading manuals. I recommend you purchase as least TWO current loading manuals, read the loading instruction sections of each, and check the recommended charges in each.

Good luck, and don't be intimidated - I've been handloading ammo since 8th grade, and have never had an accident. Just keep your wits about you and apply common sense.

 

[Starter52]

I agree that two reloading manuals are better than one, but you can certainly get by with just one in the beginning. There are several online sites with loads for different powders/bullet weights.

Cast lead Semi-Wadcutter bullets (158 gr) is the best way to go in the beginning for both .38 Spl. and .357 magnum. Again, you can find them online.

 

[bakert]

All good advice, especially at least two manuals. As far as cleaning brass I got by for years without a tumbler, just wiping the cases off with an old towel or similar rough cloth. In fact I use one seldom now unless the cases are really cruddy. My reloads may not not always be as shiny as other's but they work, every time!

 

[Smokey Joe]

More reading!

Khuengo--May I reccommend one more book, that isn't a reloading manual (although IMHO you NEED at least one of those, too!) The other book would be The ABC's of Reloading which is a GRRReat how-to book that every reloader would benefit from reading. It is heavy on the explanations of how and why to do or not do this or that procedure, and will answer lots of questions for you.

It is available from yr local sptg gds sto, gun sho, the I'net, or the publisher, Krause Publishing, www.krause.com

BTW, welcome to The Magnificent Obsession...reloading!

 

[khuengo]

thank you guys for all answers. Great stuff. I feel more confident now on reloading.

 

[khuengo]

I found this site for cast bullet.
http://www.northeastbullet.com/shop.htm
They have 38 (158 gr) SWC dia 0.358 $37 for 1000 counts. But they have a couple of options. Please help me choose one. I load 38spc and .357mag.
Should I go with hard cast or soft cast?
What about bullet lubricant options? 1 or 2 or 3?
Thanks a lot, guys.

Bullet Cast Type
Hard cast - (19) Brinell Hardness Number
Soft cast - (12) Brinell Hardness Number

Bullet Lubricant Options
1. Moly coated with grease groove lube
2. Grease groove lube with NO MOLY
3. Not lubed, not sized