I'm looking for new, empty aluminum cases to load hollow points in. Does anyone know if empty aluminum cases are sold? If not, would it be okay to buy some CCI Blazer ammo, pull the bullets, and replace them with HP's?
Aluminum ammo
- Thread starter TruthTellers
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Typically aluminum Blazer cases can only be reloaded once before splitting. I decided to try this for myself and sure enough, the case cracked after firing. Aluminum doesn't flex much, just snaps.
I seem to remember a ton of jams too but it's been a while.
I seem to remember a ton of jams too but it's been a while.
Not sure why you'd want to. Aluminum is used to save money. I wouldn't want to use aluminum cased anything for self defense.
Why??
As stated above, aluminum cases were invented to make cheaper ammo then when using brass cases.
They are nor reloadable, and you are barking up the wrong tree looking for them.
Because there aren't any new aluminum cases for sale anywhere.
rc
As stated above, aluminum cases were invented to make cheaper ammo then when using brass cases.
They are nor reloadable, and you are barking up the wrong tree looking for them.
Because there aren't any new aluminum cases for sale anywhere.
rc
Reefinmike
Member
Every time i have tried to seat a bullet in an aluminum case, the case has split. This would make for very poor self defense ammo, any old beat up brass case would be ten fold better.
I haven't had those issues. I've reloaded many for matches that you may not get your brass back. I've even loaded them for bullseye competition.
I don't know who came up with the bright idea to make cases out of aluminum, but I'd like to slap him. Most dumbass idea ever.
Reefinmike
Member
Maybe my lee expanders are too rough but ive only tried a few times with poor results. No problem loading steel cases, have some 45 cases that have been loaded in excess of 8 times. Havent had a brass case fail on me in a very long time.
Paddy was right, I want to save weight and I don't care about reloadability. If I can get one shot out of an aluminum case I'd be happy. So, can I pull an FMJ bullet and replace it with another bullet? I'm primarily looking at doing this for large calibers like .45 Colt, .45 ACP and .40 as they weigh quite a bit and for revolver cartridges like .32 S&W Long.
You are still barking up the wrong tree.
You can save more weight in a big bore revolver by changing to lighter grips then you can by changing from brass to aluminum cases.
And another few more meaningful ounces by changing the way you carry it.l
(Holsters & gun belts.)
rx
You can save more weight in a big bore revolver by changing to lighter grips then you can by changing from brass to aluminum cases.
And another few more meaningful ounces by changing the way you carry it.l
(Holsters & gun belts.)
rx
tt,
I weighed a Blazer empty brass .45acp case at 91 grains or 0.2 ounces. Thus a carry load of 8 .45acp rounds gives a brass weight of 1.6 ounces. If aluminum is about 1/3 as dense as brass that means 8 rounds of aluminum case weight would be about 0.5 ounces. This means that your saving 1 ounce by switching to aluminum cases. That's a lot of work to save one ounce of weight.
That said I have reloaded aluminum cases in .45acp. At medium loads 80% split on the first reload firing.
However since you're planning on pulling bullets on unfired cartridges it might be feasable for one firing. After pulling the bullet I'd run the case through a sizer die with the decapping pin removed (so you save the primer) and then start loading with low-power loads and see how it goes.
best wishes- oldandslow
I weighed a Blazer empty brass .45acp case at 91 grains or 0.2 ounces. Thus a carry load of 8 .45acp rounds gives a brass weight of 1.6 ounces. If aluminum is about 1/3 as dense as brass that means 8 rounds of aluminum case weight would be about 0.5 ounces. This means that your saving 1 ounce by switching to aluminum cases. That's a lot of work to save one ounce of weight.
That said I have reloaded aluminum cases in .45acp. At medium loads 80% split on the first reload firing.
However since you're planning on pulling bullets on unfired cartridges it might be feasable for one firing. After pulling the bullet I'd run the case through a sizer die with the decapping pin removed (so you save the primer) and then start loading with low-power loads and see how it goes.
best wishes- oldandslow
Pulling bullets on new aluminum case Blazer ammo to 'replace them' with something you perceive to be a better bullet, to save the difference in case weight???
This is about as Far Out thinking as I have ever heard off!!!
1. You would compromise the factory bullet crimp & seal.
2. You would compromise the factory case neck tension & crimp
3. You would be doing that to compromise factory ammo reliability.
4. You wouldn't save enough weight to even know you were carrying compromised SD ammo in the first place.
If you are that worried about 1 ounce weight?
Skip the next Double Whopper, Double Fries, and Super-Size Shake!!!
rc
This is about as Far Out thinking as I have ever heard off!!!
1. You would compromise the factory bullet crimp & seal.
2. You would compromise the factory case neck tension & crimp
3. You would be doing that to compromise factory ammo reliability.
4. You wouldn't save enough weight to even know you were carrying compromised SD ammo in the first place.
If you are that worried about 1 ounce weight?
Skip the next Double Whopper, Double Fries, and Super-Size Shake!!!
rc
Boy you guys are sure up early in the morning (0200-0400).
While the OP's desire to switch bullets in unfired aluminum cases is a bit unusual we must remember that we have all tried unconventional things in the past. To many folks the very idea of reloading our own ammo is crazy, to say nothing of wildcatting calibers and building/gunsmithing our own guns.
So if he wants to try something different why not help him do it safely.
best wishes- oldandslow
While the OP's desire to switch bullets in unfired aluminum cases is a bit unusual we must remember that we have all tried unconventional things in the past. To many folks the very idea of reloading our own ammo is crazy, to say nothing of wildcatting calibers and building/gunsmithing our own guns.
So if he wants to try something different why not help him do it safely.
best wishes- oldandslow
jmorris
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Aluminum cases also don't have as much neck tension as a brass case will give you.
Last place I would sacrifice quality for weight in a "carry" pistol would be in the ammunition.
I would rather load one less round in the mag than use aluminum cases and the weight reduction would be more. Not that anyone could notice.
Last place I would sacrifice quality for weight in a "carry" pistol would be in the ammunition.
I would rather load one less round in the mag than use aluminum cases and the weight reduction would be more. Not that anyone could notice.
Interesting question, but I am not sure if it would save enough weight to be worth the trouble. The brass case is a pretty small part of the overall weight of the cartridge.
Just curious.
Indeed. I wonder if you had two identical big bore revolvers, one with aluminum cases and one with brass cases rounds, if you could tell which was which by picking them up.
Just curious.
jmorris
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Just weighed a 9mm aluminum case, 58.2 gn.
A PMC brass case weighed 61.0 gn
2.8 gn difference. So, 156.25 aluminum vs brass cases would save 1oz of weight....
At that point you could likely use a faster powder vs a slow one and the powder charge would make a larger difference than what the case is made of and you still couldn't tell.
What belt or holster you use would make a larger difference, or any number of other factors.
I just spit in the pan and that weighed 9.8 grains or 6.7 rounds difference and that's without a snort before the spit...
Go tinkle before you holster up with brass cased ammo and you will be lighter and better off.
A PMC brass case weighed 61.0 gn
2.8 gn difference. So, 156.25 aluminum vs brass cases would save 1oz of weight....
At that point you could likely use a faster powder vs a slow one and the powder charge would make a larger difference than what the case is made of and you still couldn't tell.
What belt or holster you use would make a larger difference, or any number of other factors.
I just spit in the pan and that weighed 9.8 grains or 6.7 rounds difference and that's without a snort before the spit...
Go tinkle before you holster up with brass cased ammo and you will be lighter and better off.
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Grumulkin
Member
That's funny and true.
You can reload aluminum cases but I'd only do it for one reloading. Also, don't bother cleaning or polishing them; it doesn't make them look any better.
Perhaps the OP is thinking in terms of shipping 10,000 rounds and that weight savings may be reasonable. Not every question is based on a scenario the "experts" here are familiar with like just a weight savings for one magazine full of reloads (closed mind thinking). I'm with those that encourage "out of the box" thinking.
Alright "experts", I want one of you to go weigh a .45 Colt aluminum case to a brass case and tell me the difference.
Every bit counts. Also, aren't aluminum cases anodized? This may increase the corrosion resistance in harsh environments?
Also to be fair about reloading aluminum, he's not asking about reloading them, but loading new unfired. No fire forming or work hardening?
Also to be fair about reloading aluminum, he's not asking about reloading them, but loading new unfired. No fire forming or work hardening?
Your gonna have to pull the bullets. Then. Take the decapping rod out of your resizing die and resize, and very slightly bell the case mouth. Insert powder and bullet and crimp. Good luck and report back. I did it once with a 45 colt. I pulled a shot capsule from a cci aluminum case to see what they had in there as far as shot size and weight, then about 4 months later as the primed case set on my loading bench I thought why not, but those loads were light plinkers 200gr @ 900 fps. Dunno if it would hold the bullet under heavy recoil.
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