Any reason not to use nickel cases?

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Already covered but here is some more detail and primarily directed towards straight walled hand gun cases...

The use of nickel plated cases began back in the day when cartridges were carried in leather loops. The tanning chemicals used in the leather would corrode un-plated brass cases but nickel was resistant to the chemicals.

Again back in the day of steel reloading dies, nickel plated cases would in-bed debris in the die's surface more frequently than un-plated brass cases. Once the die was compromised, a scratch would be transferred to subsequent cases until the die was buffed out.

Carbide dies generally do not have this issue as the carbide ring is harder than most debris that might get on a case. But, cleaning then case before resizing will pretty much eliminate any scratching issue with either steel or carbide sizing dies.

In my experience, primarily with 38 Special cases, nickel plated cases do not last as long as un-plated brass cases. Mouth splits and body splits are the most frequent mode of failure. That said, I never done a study to confirm this or how much shorter the life is, it is just a feeling.

I have, shot and reloaded both nickel plated and un-plated brass cases without regards to estimated life of either case. They both work find and indistinguishable from each other. Generally, I only buy new un-plated brass cases these days due to habits developed during my days with steel 38 Special sizing dies. At times, I have a need for some of the properties offered by the nickel plating such as corrosion resistance or different appearance from un-plated cases, so I buy a few nickel plated.

So, if the price is right, buy the nickel plated cases, use them, and enjoy them.
 
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Nickel plated work just fine. On my 8th reload for 9mm, 6th reload on 40 and some on 45. Have not seen any issues so far. So load up and have fun!
 
Nickel on my carry ammo to avoid any corrosion issues. To distinguish ammo on the range, all my Starline reloads get marked on the primer end of the case with an orange or green Sharpie. Several people think I’m OCD, but I do like reloading brass that is consistent in manufacture.
 
Nickel on my carry ammo to avoid any corrosion issues. To distinguish ammo on the range, all my Starline reloads get marked on the primer end of the case with an orange or green Sharpie. Several people think I’m OCD, but I do like reloading brass that is consistent in manufacture.
I like sharpies also! I use 4 different colors that determine either the powder charge and/or the bullet type. Never know too, that if the ammo spills in the bag for some reason. I can quickly determine what is what. :)
 
Been reloading for 40 years and have definitely observed a much higher case failure ( cracking) with nickel plated cases. My regular brass cases last up to 25+ re-loadings, the nickel usually start cracking at 10 plus.
 
If you use all brass then your only way to differentiate loads is with headstamp or to use a different bullet. Nickle cases thrown in with yellow brass increases your ability to easily and positively identify various loads visually.
 
I think they may have changed the plating process at some time. I have some 357 Mag Ni brass from the 70's that the nickle has worn through, never had one flake off. If the Ni plating is flaking off the case was not cleaned properly prior to plating. Some of my newer Ni cases don't have enough reloads on them to know how long they will last. I use the Ni cases for specialty loads so I can quickly identify them.
 
I use a fair amount of Nickle plated brass... for identifying certain loads. For example my .223 plinking ammo is brass but my .223 target ammo for my Rem 700 heavy barrel varmint rifle is Nickle plated brass and is only shot in my 700 and is only neck sized, not full length sized.

I have never had any issues with Nickle cases. I actually rather like Nickle cases. I have never had any issues with Nickle plated cases splitting or wearing out quicker than non-plated cases. I do anneal my plated cases after about 5 firings. I don't track usage very closely on plinking brass.
 
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It seems strange to me that the nickel plating would cause shorter life considering the case is still mostly brass and how tough and durable nickel is. I can understand the flaking. After all, that is what happens to a plated layer is not very well adhered. But as for strength of the composite cases, I’m surprised (not doubtful, just surprised) they are weaker than the plain brass ones. Maybe the nickel is just not as malleable as the brass and the sum of the two layers is worse than the brass alone.
 
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It seems strange to me that the nickel plating would cause shorter life considering the case is still mostly brass and how tough and durable nickel is. I can understand the flaming. After all, that is what happens to a plated layer is not very well adhered. But as for strength of the composite cases, I’m surprised (not doubtful, just surprised) they are weaker than the plain brass ones. Maybe the nickel is just not as malleable as the brass and the sum of the two layers is worse than the brass alone.
i believe the nickel makes the case more ridged and not able to expand without stretching.
 
I think there's good nickel plating done properly, and trash nickel plating. Like anything else. Talk to someone who has encountered a bunch of trash nickel plating and they'll be convinced nickel plating is inherently trash.
 
When I find nickel cases on the floor I pick them up clean them, prime them, reload them shoot them and do it all over again and again. I think using nickel is a great way to keep track of your own cases.
 
It might be that the process used to make nickel cases causes the brass to weaken and thus less useful life. Remember the manufacturers are not necessarily making all their brass for the reloader specifically.
 
As a general rule I shoot & reload nickel cases only. R-P nickel in 5 different .45 autos. I have no issues nor complaints. However, B/E shooters do not use nickel cases other than for practice, virtually never for competition.
 
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