Any SP101 Fans Here?

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Sulaco said:
Yeah, I just ordered the 2.25 inch gun but I see what you mean about the velocity. But, mine's first duty will be concealed carry so I will live with a tad less velocity.


Now for an ammo question. Anyone see any reason to carry anything other than my favorite Speer GoldDot 135gr. .38's? Since this one is a .357, was curious what others were using.

I have the 2.25 also and carry Remington JHP (jacketed hollow point) 125 grain 357s. I like the idea of the extra power over the .38, but my uncle carried a .38 on duty for 30 years and never had a problem with it.
 
Sulaco said:
Cosmo, is that the "Target Grey" finish available only through Lipsey's? I called them about that model and they said they will be picking them back up next year but not yet. Oh well, stainless will have to do!

Yes, that's one of the special orders. I picked it up very slightly used. I am VERY happy I did. For one thing, the target grey is holding up far better than I expected. It also helps prevent discoloration/rust on stainless. I've abused it badly, and even left standing water on the frame for a few days to test it. The grey finish does indeed protect the metal. I also like the dark color and the lack of shiny surfaces. It's the best of both blued steel and stainless with the rust resistance of polymer. Get one off gunbroker if you can, it's worth it!

I also put some Wolff springs in mine to reduce pull a few pounds. After some break in the trigger is now as smoth as any S&W.
 
Sulaco said:
Now for an ammo question. Anyone see any reason to carry anything other than my favorite Speer GoldDot 135gr. .38's? Since this one is a .357, was curious what others were using.

I carry Remington 125 grain .357 mag in Semi-Jacketed Hollow Point. I like the extra punch. A lot like the .38.
 
I carry .357's in the 158 range for in town and the 200 grain hardcast out of town. The SP will eat anything. The old FBI SWCHP's are a positive pleasure to rapid fire out of it. I also like the +p+ .38 special hydrashock loads.
 
Count me in with the group.

Chris

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I love my SP101.

I have the 357 with the 2.25" barrel. I have Hogue Rubber Monogrips installed and also have Hogue hardwood grips that I occastionally install. I carry (to and from the range) it in a Milt Sparks PMK holster :)) for the holster --- :fire: for the lack of ability for fulltime carry on Long Island,NY). I have shot 38 Special, 38 Special +P, and 357 with it using various ammo manufacturers and found that with the rubber grips they are all enjoyable to shoot, however with the hardwood grips the 357s begin to take their toll after 15 rounds or so.

Did I forget to tell you that I LOVE my SP101!!! :p

Luke
 
Yup, hogue combat grips are the way to go with magnum loads. The recoil busted up my crimson trace and I had to send them back for laser repairs.

I really wish I could mount a little tactical light under the barrel, though.
 
I'm carrying mine right now.

Occassionally I'll leave my Sig at home and pack my 2.25" SP101 - like today. I plan on staying in the office and conducting interviews and closing cases. On days like this it's actually more comfortable to wear the Ruger. Plus it never fails to get a response from somebody. Wow thats a revolver!:eek:

I have it loaded with Federal 129 grain .357 magnum Hydrashocks. My reloads are Winchester semi-jacketed hollow point 38 special +P+. It's a very solid revolver.
 
Nice looking guns everyone.

reload4me2, how much did that holster set you back? Does Milt make one for the 2.25" version? That is a lot like what I want to carry mine in.
 
I don't have one, but I do want one. A baby brother for my GP-100

I carry a blued J frame myself, but I would love to get a stainless SP-101 to take its place.

Charby
 
A cheaper alternative to laser grips (not a perfect substitute, of course) is the SP101 tritium dot front sight inserts sold by Meprolight and Trijicon. They run around $40.00. I have one on my 3" SP101 -- think it's the Meprolight model. It's not the hugest dot in the world, but it's distinctly visible in low light and darkness. Worth the money.

PS: Reload4me2, I like that mother-of-pearl grip insert. A distinctive touch. Do you find it holds up well under recoil?
 
re holster and grip inserts

The holster is by Lou Alessi, makes great stuff. I bought it for about 60 bucks but that was over 10 years ago. The holster has worn well, though I must admit I did not use it all the time. I have of couple of Alessi holsters - I am a fan of the pull through snap for revolvers. The SP101 has been replaced by my SW model 65 Ladysmith for CCW revolver carry, that same style holster was about 70 bucks as I recall.

The grip inserts are a little thicker than the rosewood inserts (from Ruger) that I had on the gun previously and do give the grip a little different feel. I thought the recoil was a tad more with the Ajax insert, but other than the possible change in my grip on the gun due to the increased bulk, I could not say why. While I like the look of the grips, I am not sure I will keep them. I used to carry this gun riding and hiking in the desert but I do not think the grip inserts would hold up well scraping against rocks etc. Someone who had a set also told me not to over tighten the screw assembly as it could crack the insert
 
It's crazy that this thread came up. I went to the gun store to trade my p345 for an sp101 in either 357 or 38 just tonight. They were closed, so I had to go home with my brass puker.
But, I'm on track to get one sp in a 3 incher and one in a 4 incher. Can't wait to get an sp in my house. Such a great little wheelgun. I'm pretty stoked to see so many happy customers.
Only thing I don't like is 5 shots...:rolleyes:
 
Well, I picked mine up tonight. I ended up with a 3" gun. I found I can pocket carry it almost as easily as the 2.25" gun so why not. I am loving it so far. I will post a range report ASAP.
 
MCgunner said:
It's a might heavy for my tastes in .38, but IMHO the SP101 with a 3" barrel would be about the tastiest small frame .357 on the market. With that caliber, I want at least 3" of barrel if not 4" to get the ballistic advantage out of it and weight is a GOOD thing in that caliber. It's another I might add some day, but I'm pretty happy with my Taurus Ultra Lite in lowly .38 special.

The SP101 has to be the strongest of any of the J frame size guns. The design is stronger than the rest. There's no side plate to weaken the frame. And, you can smooth and lighten the trigger yourself if you know what to do. They can be made unbelievably smooth.

Ok, I'll bite. Tell me how to get my trigger "unbelievably smooth". I know how to tear it down completely but haven't had the trigger assembly apart. :)
 
I have been toying with the idea of some sort of pouch to keep the gun in for the times when i either can't pocket/belt carry or just plain can't carry (gov. employee so no carry at work). I see Uncle Mike's makes some cheap gun runner style pouches. Does anyone use this method of carry/storage and if so, what are the pros and cons?
 
Sulaco said:
Ok, I'll bite. Tell me how to get my trigger "unbelievably smooth". I know how to tear it down completely but haven't had the trigger assembly apart. :)

Just stone the trigger sear and sear notch on the hammer completely smooth. Make sure you keep the stone flat to the engagement notches and don't change any angles. Just get the roughness out, get the surfaces bright and shiny. That's all it takes.

You can trim the hammer spring to lighten the DA pull. The spring is overly stiff. Trim a tiny bit at a time while stuffing empty/primed brass in the gun to test ignition at each trim. Use CCI Magnum Pistol primers. When you start seeing that the dent in the primer is getting noticably a little more shallow, stop. Go any farther and you could compromise ignition reliability.

I did this little work over on my security six and it had a much slicker action than any of my Smiths ever had. It really is easy to do. You have to pull the trigger group out and the hammer, but it's not a big job.
 
MCgunner's approach sure can work - but - I would add just a note of caution.

Stoning is removing metal, however subtle that may be - metal removed cannot be put back! Any loss of angular relationships can be prejudicial. My ideal way to work on this method is with a jig and that takes time to make.

It will tho probably be still very useful to do Dremel mop and polishing compound work on the trigger notch and sear engagement surfaces - this is still ''removing'' metal but at a near miniscule level - and if a mirror finish can be achieved it will at least help smooth things. Of course too - most folks find with Ruger triggers that generous dry firing does also assist things freeing up.

If a carry gun I would personally not change spring rate too much thru shortening - better IMO to have still perhaps a bit of excess poundage just to be sure any round will fire - plus, if trigger smoother then poundage less important I have found. Smooth is good :)

Just an extra $/50!
 
Sulaco said:
But, mine's first duty will be concealed carry so I will live with a tad less velocity.

Now for an ammo question. Anyone see any reason to carry anything other than my favorite Speer GoldDot 135gr. .38's? Since this one is a .357, was curious what others were using.

If you shoot .357s the barrel length will not make a big difference in the impact the bullet makes. Is the extra .75" going to make them deader?

I carry Remington .357 125 grain Semi Jacketed Hollow Points in my 2.25 incher. I am confident that they will get the job done.
 
Mr_Moore said:
If you shoot .357s the barrel length will not make a big difference in the impact the bullet makes. Is the extra .75" going to make them deader?


In all the ballistics I've seen comparing barrel lengths on .357, uh, yes. The extra length also helps reduce muzzle flash even with loads that use a flash suppressant. 2" (but the short barrel SP uses 2.75" barrels) the .357 might as well be shooting .38s. They'll flash/kick less and aren't much off .357 velocities in that short of a tube. However, give the barrel over 3" and the .357 had a significant gain in energy/velocity, enough to make it worth while to shoot the magnum load. Also, the longer tube increases sight radius enough that, to me, I can shrink my groups with it. I'm pretty sure this is due mainly to the sight radius and not any inherent accuracy.

It is totally amazing what a lousy inch will do for the .357. The load uses a slower burn powder to gain its velocity compared to the .38 and needs that extra barrel. A 4"er would be even better, but looking at the tables on this post, looks like the BIG gain is from the 2"ers of most snubbies to the 3 1/6" barrel of that SP101. It's enough that I'd definitely choose the longer barrel in the caliber, put it that way.

plus, if trigger smoother then poundage less important I have found. Smooth is good

The sear smoothing effects single action let off. The spring effects DA pull weight and the sear smoothing has little or no effect on DA smoothness. Be careful and test with the hard CCI magnum primers, but trimming the spring works on Rugers cause the spring is overly powerful in 'em. What you might do, though, is buy another spring (cheap) and install it for carry, use your trimmed spring, or reduced power Wolff spring if you wanna go that route, to practice. Once you have fired four or five hundred rounds without a hitch and feel confident in the spring, then maybe carry with it. Or, if you want the lighter DA for matches, just use it for that and keep the stiffer spring in for carry. I doubt serious in a life threatening situation, you'll notice the stiffer trigger anyway. You'll be on adrenalin drive. :D I was shooting matches with the Security Six I did, but it never had a hitch, always worked.
 
Sulaco said:
I have been toying with the idea of some sort of pouch to keep the gun in for the times when i either can't pocket/belt carry or just plain can't carry (gov. employee so no carry at work). I see Uncle Mike's makes some cheap gun runner style pouches. Does anyone use this method of carry/storage and if so, what are the pros and cons?

I use a number of pouches all the time to carry my SP-101, or other small revolvers or automatics. While I have some of the pouches made by holster manufacturers, I have found an even better source is to look at belt pouches made for travel/hiking/backpacking and small camera pouches. Large sporting good stores, luggage stores, military surplus stores, camera stores and campmor.com are excellent places to find such pouches. I am particularly fond these days of some MOLLE ammo pouches that I found, since the belt loops snap right over my belt. Another good alternative is a pouch made for carrying small personal stereos.

Be sure to measure your handgun and compare it to the quoted internal dimensions of the pouch to see if it will fit. If I am trying pouches in the store, since most stores frown on you pulling a loaded handgun out for fit tests :uhoh:, I have an index card cut to the length and height of the handgun, and I slide it into the pouch for an initial fit test. If it doesn't fit the index card, it won't fit my handgun. If it does fit, with appropriate allowances for width, the pouch is a good candidate.
 
MillCreek said:
I use a number of pouches all the time to carry my SP-101, or other small revolvers or automatics. While I have some of the pouches made by holster manufacturers, I have found an even better source is to look at belt pouches made for travel/hiking/backpacking and small camera pouches. Large sporting good stores, luggage stores, military surplus stores, camera stores and campmor.com are excellent places to find such pouches. I am particularly fond these days of some MOLLE ammo pouches that I found, since the belt loops snap right over my belt. Another good alternative is a pouch made for carrying small personal stereos.

Be sure to measure your handgun and compare it to the quoted internal dimensions of the pouch to see if it will fit. If I am trying pouches in the store, since most stores frown on you pulling a loaded handgun out for fit tests :uhoh:, I have an index card cut to the length and height of the handgun, and I slide it into the pouch for an initial fit test. If it doesn't fit the index card, it won't fit my handgun. If it does fit, with appropriate allowances for width, the pouch is a good candidate.

Thanks for the info. I will have to check some of that out. In the meantime, I picked up a Galco Silhouette holster which seems to be working really well.
 
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