Anyone loading rifle on a progressive?
- Thread starter mugsie
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Rifle rounds on a Dillon 550?
Heavens to Murgatroyd, pard, OF COURSE! Mike Dillon himself got into making progressive loaders because of his love of rifle-caliber machineguns.
I load 7.62 NATO, .30-06, .223 etc on my 550, and the only reason I don't use it for more calibers is that I don't need that much production for others. I have other presses for my lower-volume needs.
A friend has a Dillon 550, and it's his only press. He only loads one cartridge on it, too....but it's the black-powder .45-110!! (Remember "Quigley"? Yeah, THAT cartridge.)
The 550's frame has ample room for the .45-110-2.875" round, and will accept my .416 Rigbys and .404 Jefferys as well.
Not only does the 550 do well on rifle rounds, but I've run tests which show that the ammo is every bit as accurate as the stuff I load one-at-a-time on a Rockchucker.
My only caution to you is that you should try to use easy-metering powder types. I've used H4831 Short Cut in my 550, and it seemed OK, but I'd still lean to an easy-flowing ball-type for the larger charges used in most rifle loads.
Have fun....it's neat watching the bin fill up that fast....
Heavens to Murgatroyd, pard, OF COURSE! Mike Dillon himself got into making progressive loaders because of his love of rifle-caliber machineguns.
I load 7.62 NATO, .30-06, .223 etc on my 550, and the only reason I don't use it for more calibers is that I don't need that much production for others. I have other presses for my lower-volume needs.
A friend has a Dillon 550, and it's his only press. He only loads one cartridge on it, too....but it's the black-powder .45-110!! (Remember "Quigley"? Yeah, THAT cartridge.)
The 550's frame has ample room for the .45-110-2.875" round, and will accept my .416 Rigbys and .404 Jefferys as well.
Not only does the 550 do well on rifle rounds, but I've run tests which show that the ammo is every bit as accurate as the stuff I load one-at-a-time on a Rockchucker.
My only caution to you is that you should try to use easy-metering powder types. I've used H4831 Short Cut in my 550, and it seemed OK, but I'd still lean to an easy-flowing ball-type for the larger charges used in most rifle loads.
Have fun....it's neat watching the bin fill up that fast....
I load .308 Win and .260 Rem on my Hornady Lock-n-Load AP. I split the process into three parts: one pass through the press to decap and resize, tumble off the case lube and trim, then another pass through to prime, charge, and seat. Works great. I have the case feeder which I find really helps since I do have to make two passes through the press. I use Hornady's spray lube so I can just spray down the cases and dump them in the hopper. Even if you don't have a case feeder, the spray lube is still faster than doing each case by hand.
I haven't noticed any difference in accuracy between the ammo I load on the progressive, vs. rounds loaded on my single stage.
I haven't noticed any difference in accuracy between the ammo I load on the progressive, vs. rounds loaded on my single stage.
snuffy
Member
http://www.glocktalk.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=579660
Take a look at this thread, I'm JP4 over there! That's my 650 dillon in the pics, loading .223. I also do .308 and 30-06 on it.
Take a look at this thread, I'm JP4 over there! That's my 650 dillon in the pics, loading .223. I also do .308 and 30-06 on it.
I got a Dillon XL650 specifically to progressively load .223, because my Lee Pro1000s, which were fine for pistol calibers, weren't sufficiently sturdy to do bottleneck rifle cases. I also reload .30-30, .308, and .30-06, but not in enough volume to justify using the 650. For .223, it's very slick. It's a little slower than, say, .45 ACP, because of the need to pause midway in the cycle to allow the powder charge to drop completely, but it's so much faster than a single stage that it's certainly the answer to my problem.
Depending on volume, though, if I had it to do over again and if reloading rifles more rapidly than a single-stage were my main consideration, I would definitely consider the Lee Classic Turret. From reports of those using it, it can crank out enough rounds quickly enough to serve the needs of 99% of rifle shooters, and it is far less expensive than the 650, and caliber changes are dramatically cheaper and less complex.
Depending on volume, though, if I had it to do over again and if reloading rifles more rapidly than a single-stage were my main consideration, I would definitely consider the Lee Classic Turret. From reports of those using it, it can crank out enough rounds quickly enough to serve the needs of 99% of rifle shooters, and it is far less expensive than the 650, and caliber changes are dramatically cheaper and less complex.
griz
Member
I've reloaded 223 on my RCBS 2000. I happened to have some deprimed clean brass, so did not have to lube and size on the progressive. No problems, but I have not given any thought to how I would clean the lube off if I was sizing too.
redneck2
Member
robctwo
Member
I'm loading .223, .243, .270, .308 & 300 WSM on my Hornady LnL.
To get going I was loading one round at a time, and still do to get things right, then I fill the shell plate and go into mass production.
To get going I was loading one round at a time, and still do to get things right, then I fill the shell plate and go into mass production.
Lennyjoe
Member
Only rifle ammo I load on a progressive is .223 for range use. All other ammo is single stage for accuracy.
Chuck R.
Member
I’ve got a question for you progressive rifle loading guys.
What are you guys using for Lube, and how are you getting it off afterwards?
Thanks,
Chuck
What are you guys using for Lube, and how are you getting it off afterwards?
Thanks,
Chuck
The Dillon for rifle,, BIG YES,, i load 223 for comp, for years, just watch powders, some meter super, some dont, and check the first throw, mine always throws heavy on the first pull of the session, then holds almost dead nuts, i load 308, 30-30, 30-06 , 45 acp, 44 mag, 357, all on dillons, love it, also for lube i like the spray on red can, hornady? i dont care for the dillon lube, lwipe off by hand or tumble for ten mins, I feel better with hand cleaning, after the round is finsihes, A good time to inspect one more time, as well. Get some dies , shell plates, and go for it, Only, thing i found out with the dillon, i need one more, , All set up ready to go, the head is a fast change, but the small, large primmer changes are a pain, I have two,550s plan on a third,
I load .308 and .223 on a Dillon 550, as well as many handgun calibers.
As for removing the lube. Just wipe it off. I use the Hornady stuff and it wipes off easily.
On my.223's I have already sized and trimmed the cases with the Dillon case trimmer. I have the size die on the 550 set to just open up the case mouth during the reloading process. No need for lube for with the carbide neck expander.
As for removing the lube. Just wipe it off. I use the Hornady stuff and it wipes off easily.
On my.223's I have already sized and trimmed the cases with the Dillon case trimmer. I have the size die on the 550 set to just open up the case mouth during the reloading process. No need for lube for with the carbide neck expander.
The typical person sizes all of the cases (progressive or single stage) then tumbles to remove the lube (and trim, deburr, ream primer pockets, etc.). The progressive guys then throw the cases back into the casefeeder (lucky ones anyway) and drop powder, seat, then crimp the bullet progressively.
I use hornady one-shot case lube. The dillon spray lube works pretty good also.
Lennyjoe
Member
Hornady one-shot
snuffy
Member
RCBS Case Slick spray lube
When I'm running them through the dillon 650, I spray them with RCBS case slick in a plastic tubb, then dump them into the case feeder. After loading, I toss them in the vibratory tumbler for 10-20 minutes to remove the lube.
When you do 500-1000 at a sitting, it's a PITA to hand clean every last one!
:banghead:
When I'm running them through the dillon 650, I spray them with RCBS case slick in a plastic tubb, then dump them into the case feeder. After loading, I toss them in the vibratory tumbler for 10-20 minutes to remove the lube.
When you do 500-1000 at a sitting, it's a PITA to hand clean every last one!
:banghead:
redneck2
Member
It makes the cases easier to load with less lube if you use plenty of good polish in the media when you first clean the cases. I use some from Midway. Makes the cases shiny and easier to cycle.
FWIW...I load one round at a time thru the whole cycle
FWIW...I load one round at a time thru the whole cycle
If one spends the money to buy a progressive press, which is designed and intended to maximize production rates, why handcuff it by breaking the loading routine up and handling each case more times than necessary???
My brass comes home from the range and goes directly into a Midway tumbler, which is charged with 1/8" feed-store corncob and a bit of Turtle Wax "Scratch and Swirl Remover". This gives a high shine, and cases are very easy to inspect as they come out of the tumbler.
Cases then go into an Accro-bin, and are sprayed with Midway case lube from the pump bottle. Great stuff.
From that point forward, the cases are handled only once during loading, being placed in the press and STAYING there until completely loaded. NO trimming, NO primer-pocket cleaning, NO weighing of charges, nothing except excellent ammo turned-out at a good rate. Any tumbling media in the flasholes is removed with absolute reliability by the decapping pin...no problemo.
After I have a binful of loaded rounds, each of them is individually wiped clean with a rag dampened with some solvent, inspected, and then dropped into a cartridge gauge...this is a great tool for peace of mind. I find very, very few rounds that don't gauge as acceptable, but it only takes ONE to ruin a day, or a hunt, or whatever. With autoloading rifle rounds, by far the most-common reason for not entering the gauge completely is just minor burrs on the case rim, which are easily removed with a small flat needle file.
By comparison testing, I've determined that the above routine produces ammo which is every bit as accurate and reliable as anything I load on my Rockchucker. This applies to both rifle and handgun ammo. I lose no sleep about not taking the extra steps that some utilize, and the ammo is first class.
My Dillon 550 runs as intended, processing each round through all the loading steps without interruption.
My brass comes home from the range and goes directly into a Midway tumbler, which is charged with 1/8" feed-store corncob and a bit of Turtle Wax "Scratch and Swirl Remover". This gives a high shine, and cases are very easy to inspect as they come out of the tumbler.
Cases then go into an Accro-bin, and are sprayed with Midway case lube from the pump bottle. Great stuff.
From that point forward, the cases are handled only once during loading, being placed in the press and STAYING there until completely loaded. NO trimming, NO primer-pocket cleaning, NO weighing of charges, nothing except excellent ammo turned-out at a good rate. Any tumbling media in the flasholes is removed with absolute reliability by the decapping pin...no problemo.
After I have a binful of loaded rounds, each of them is individually wiped clean with a rag dampened with some solvent, inspected, and then dropped into a cartridge gauge...this is a great tool for peace of mind. I find very, very few rounds that don't gauge as acceptable, but it only takes ONE to ruin a day, or a hunt, or whatever. With autoloading rifle rounds, by far the most-common reason for not entering the gauge completely is just minor burrs on the case rim, which are easily removed with a small flat needle file.
By comparison testing, I've determined that the above routine produces ammo which is every bit as accurate and reliable as anything I load on my Rockchucker. This applies to both rifle and handgun ammo. I lose no sleep about not taking the extra steps that some utilize, and the ammo is first class.
My Dillon 550 runs as intended, processing each round through all the loading steps without interruption.
Single-stage mentality and methods do not always translate into effective use of progressive loaders. When making major changes in equipment, it's often time well spent to consider how to make best use of the new press.
For example, note my reference to gauging EVERY SINGLE ROUND after loading. This is connected to Matt-man's note about perhaps having to trim cases, and thus breaking the loading progression into several parts. The Wilson cartridge gauges I use have steps to indicate "too long" and "too short". The "short" step is usually used in its headspacing function, but I also use it to inspect case length. I don't mind handling every round for gauging, as I also use this opportunity to wipe each round and do a final inspection...occasionally, a caseneck might survive all the other steps in its loading and then crack on the final step of seating the bullet. Rare, but it happens.
When I put a batch of new brass in service, it's usually a large-ish amount like 500 rounds or more. If it's going to be progressive-loaded, I trim cases several thousandths SHORTER than the normal "trim-to" length. This does no harm whatever, and it buys a considerable number of reloadings before the cases reach full length specs. In fact, I almost never have to trim those cases again before taking them out of service.
I now have an X-die in .308/7.62 NATO, but have yet to use it...that'll come when the next batch of new brass gets placed in service. The X-die depends on uniform-length cases for its proper use. The current 7.62 NATO cases I'm using are on about their fifth or sixth reloading for my M1A, which I bought new last September and which has now reached 3000 rounds fired. No case failures, NO TRIMMING, and so far, no end in sight.
Incidentally, I've met very few handloaders who break the progressive cycle into sections to do tasks on other machines. Doing so is NOT typical among those with whom I've spoken or corresponded.
The Dillon on my bench loads ammunition every bit as accurate as the best I can load on my Rockchucker, and I make that statement based on extensive comparison testing in a good varmint rifle. It also includes the fact that I did NOT clean primer pockets, brush necks, weigh charges, trim cases etc etc for the Dillon-loaded ammo, and I DID do all those things for the single-stage ammo. Net difference in comparison firing: NONE.
For example, note my reference to gauging EVERY SINGLE ROUND after loading. This is connected to Matt-man's note about perhaps having to trim cases, and thus breaking the loading progression into several parts. The Wilson cartridge gauges I use have steps to indicate "too long" and "too short". The "short" step is usually used in its headspacing function, but I also use it to inspect case length. I don't mind handling every round for gauging, as I also use this opportunity to wipe each round and do a final inspection...occasionally, a caseneck might survive all the other steps in its loading and then crack on the final step of seating the bullet. Rare, but it happens.
When I put a batch of new brass in service, it's usually a large-ish amount like 500 rounds or more. If it's going to be progressive-loaded, I trim cases several thousandths SHORTER than the normal "trim-to" length. This does no harm whatever, and it buys a considerable number of reloadings before the cases reach full length specs. In fact, I almost never have to trim those cases again before taking them out of service.
I now have an X-die in .308/7.62 NATO, but have yet to use it...that'll come when the next batch of new brass gets placed in service. The X-die depends on uniform-length cases for its proper use. The current 7.62 NATO cases I'm using are on about their fifth or sixth reloading for my M1A, which I bought new last September and which has now reached 3000 rounds fired. No case failures, NO TRIMMING, and so far, no end in sight.
Incidentally, I've met very few handloaders who break the progressive cycle into sections to do tasks on other machines. Doing so is NOT typical among those with whom I've spoken or corresponded.
The Dillon on my bench loads ammunition every bit as accurate as the best I can load on my Rockchucker, and I make that statement based on extensive comparison testing in a good varmint rifle. It also includes the fact that I did NOT clean primer pockets, brush necks, weigh charges, trim cases etc etc for the Dillon-loaded ammo, and I DID do all those things for the single-stage ammo. Net difference in comparison firing: NONE.
Exception - crimped primers
Progressive reloaders are great once you finally get them set up properly and working correctly. I'm quite sure they all have bugs to be worked out when first acquired and installed. I have a Lee Loadmaster that gave me fits until I finally got it set up correctly. As someone earlier in this thread stated, it is usually the priming mechanism that gives you fits.
I agree that the proper use is to start with cleaned and prepared cases and run through the whole sequence in one session, producing loaded rounds at each pull of the handle.
HOWEVER, if you are using once-fired military cases that have crimped primers, it is a different ballgame! You MUST deprime and ream the primer pocket before attempting to use these cases in a progressive reloader or you will end up with a real nightmare.
I deprime, ream the pocket and trim (rifle only) these cases before using them for the first time in my progressive loader.
Progressive reloaders are great once you finally get them set up properly and working correctly. I'm quite sure they all have bugs to be worked out when first acquired and installed. I have a Lee Loadmaster that gave me fits until I finally got it set up correctly. As someone earlier in this thread stated, it is usually the priming mechanism that gives you fits.
I agree that the proper use is to start with cleaned and prepared cases and run through the whole sequence in one session, producing loaded rounds at each pull of the handle.
HOWEVER, if you are using once-fired military cases that have crimped primers, it is a different ballgame! You MUST deprime and ream the primer pocket before attempting to use these cases in a progressive reloader or you will end up with a real nightmare.
I deprime, ream the pocket and trim (rifle only) these cases before using them for the first time in my progressive loader.- Status