ar-15 barrel

[kingcheese]

I picked up an ar barrel today, the barrel is stamped "R 16 1:9" the others at the place said "Rogi 16 1:9" when i asked the guy who maid them he said he couldn't remember, so does anyone know who makes them? Its a 16inch H-bar, and any ideas on what it should cost?

 

[kingcheese]

Come on, are the other ways to identify a barrel?

 

[SpentCasing]

I tried for you. My google-fu keeps kicking me back to this post. So my best guess is that maybe its a Roggio or perhaps R-Guns? They are the only ones I can think of. If that is the case and it is in fact a Roggio my suggestion is to pass. Not a brand known for quality. Im not a RRA fan but IIRC all the ones Ive seen they mark with the full "RRA" so I dont think its them. Hope this may help, good luck^^

 

[kingcheese]

Honestly, i paid 90 bucks for this thing at a gunshow, and this is my first ar, so my goal was 600$ or less, its gonna happen, I've got around 400 in it so far and i need a gas tube, gas block and a handgaurd, if it gives me 6moa at 200yards ill still be okay with it, but every time i put the info into Google, i got info on colt, voltor, Sig, r guns, and a handful of other stuff, just trying to figure it out, i was told it was chromoly

 

[meanmrmustard]

Does it have the M4 barrel cut? This may be what the R denotes, as per RRA, "16" being barrel length ( obviously), and your twist rate being 1:9, stabilizing 55-62+ grain bullets well (think M855A1).

Look for any markings underneath handguards.

 

[303 hunter]

My guess would be Roggio Arsenal. They went out of business because of shoddy workmanship. I have friends who bought their products,only to find they would not fit mil-spec parts. It would make a decent fence post........

 

[kingcheese]

Yes, it is indeed cut for m4 feed ramps

 

[dprice3844444]

try it see how it shoots on paper

 

[MachIVshooter]

So my best guess is that maybe its a Roggio or perhaps R-Guns?

Not R-guns. They mark with the full name.

my goal was 600$ or less

You could have built a Del-Ton or DSA rifle for that and known you had quality, US-made parts.

 

[kingcheese]

Where i live, I've not seen, dsa or delton rifles, and i paid cash for everything, in person, (another goal), and i wanted to build it, it has an A2 stock, yhm lower, dpms parts kit, bushmaster bcg, dsa upper, mi muzzle, and this barrel where ever its from, the only thing left is a sight block and hand gaurd, and a trip to a smith to install the barrel, the delta ring came from delton

 

[madcratebuilder]

Roggio Arsenal, a low cost barrel that should meet military accuracy standards or about 4moa. 4140 steel no chrome lining. $90 is a good deal.

 

[MachIVshooter]

and a trip to a smith to install the barrel

Just pick up an armorers wrench for $20-$30 instead of paying a smith to do it. Then you'll have it for your next build, too.

yhm lower, dpms parts kit, bushmaster bcg, dsa upper,

Well, that's decent stuff, then.

 

[kingcheese]

I have the armorers wrench, but my dad had to buy the lower for me as a gift and wants me to have it inspected, plus i have no idea how to properly mount the muzzle break, unless someone can tell me torque values and how to install a break?

 

[madcratebuilder]

Download the 23&P, it well walk you through the build. It covers every aspect and has all torque values.

http://www.ar15armory.com/manuals/TM9-1005-319-23.pdf

 

[MachIVshooter]

plus i have no idea how to properly mount the muzzle break, unless someone can tell me torque values and how to install a break?

If using a crush washer, you go hand tight and then at least 1/4 turn but no more than 1-1/4 turns until it is properly aligned.

If no washer, 30 ft lbs, using shims to align (if necessary).

As for the barrel nut, I use german spec (gutentight). Tight as I can go by hand, then I tap on the wrench with small a hammer until it will barely move enough to allow gas tube alignment, which is usually 1-2 notches more than I could get with the wrench by hand. And for the record, I don't use a vice for this part. I put the upper on a lower, drape a towel over my lap and sandwich the gun between my knees. I hold the wrench tight against the barrel nut and provide pressure against it to resist the rotational movement of the gun. The hammer impacts will turn the nut this way, but there is plenty of give to prevent any twisting of receiver parts, and no hard contact points to mar anything. I suppose it may be kind of hard to visualize from a written description, but I feel this is the best way to avoid receiver damage and still get the nut tight enough without an AR vice. If I were doing greater volume, I'd build/buy a vice that perfectly fits the upper.

 

[hentown]

Barrel nut should be torqued from 33# to 80#. I don't believe it's possible to properly install a barrel nut wrench by holding the receiver between one's knees and tapping the wrench with a hammer.

 

[MachIVshooter]

I don't believe it's possible to properly install a barrel nut wrench by holding the receiver between one's knees and tapping the wrench with a hammer.

Say that after you've been turning wrenches for two decades.

I'm not a manufacturer. These are all personal guns, so there is no liability question. I know they're tight enough, and I can also tell you that, unless you have a POS barrel nut or soft, extruded milled receiver, it'd be darn near impossible to damage anything even if significantly in excess of 80 ft/lbs, unless you're using a device that holds the upper rigidly, in which case you could certainly twist it.

Impact methods allow a fastener to be tightened substantially more than torque alone without any real risk of twisting whatever that fastener is attached to.

I also didn't recommend this method for anyone else, just explained how I do it. If one is not comfortable doing it this way, then don't.

 

[kingcheese]

I worked in a tire shop, torque is something I'm familiar with, now are we talking foot pounds or inch pounds

 

[hentown]

Say that after you've been turning wrenches for two decades.

I'm not a manufacturer. These are all personal guns, so there is no liability question. I know they're tight enough, and I can also tell you that, unless you have a POS barrel nut or soft, extruded milled receiver, it'd be darn near impossible to damage anything even if significantly in excess of 80 ft/lbs, unless you're using a device that holds the upper rigidly, in which case you could certainly twist it.

Impact methods allow a fastener to be tightened substantially more than torque alone without any real risk of twisting whatever that fastener is attached to.

I also didn't recommend this method for anyone else, just explained how I do it. If one is not comfortable doing it this way, then don't.
__________________

Hardehardeharharhar! Didn't mean to ruffle your feathers, just trying to give the best advice I could to the OP. I've been turning wrenches for a LOT longer than two decades! IF you can put over 30 lbs/ft of torque on a barrel nut, holding the receiver between your knees, then more power to you! When a clamshell action block and vice are so easy to obtain and use, I just prefer using that method with a torque wrench, as opposed to redneck torquing methods. I usually set my torque wrench to 50# and then line up the gas tube hole.

 

[kingcheese]

Well its installed, my next question is, when i pull back slowly on the charging handle, the bolt locks, but if i just rip it back its smooth, is that normal?

 

[MachIVshooter]

Didn't mean to ruffle your feathers, just trying to give the best advice I could to the OP.

Oh, no, I'm not insulted or anything. And I definitely agree that someone who hasn't spent their entire life disassembling and reassembling things should probably adhere to procedures and specifications more closely.

There are times when torque specs are very critical (head gasket, intake manifold, etc.) and times when they're not so much (trans mount to crossmember bolt, lower control arm bolt, other applications where there really is nothing to be crushed). Similarly, with the barrel nut on an AR, as long as it's tight enough, it'd be nigh impossible to over-tighten it with hand tools.

IF you can put over 30 lbs/ft of torque on a barrel nut, holding the receiver between your knees, then more power to you!

Just turning the wrench with my hands? Not without causing myself discomfort. Using impact? Most definitely.

When a clamshell action block and vice are so easy to obtain and use

The action block is one of those things I always think to myself "I'll have to pick one of those up" and then forget, right up until I'm assembling an upper. But then, I'm horribly impatient when I have all the parts in my hands and will get it done with what I have, remind myself to buy the block, then forget again..........

 

[hentown]

Well its installed, my next question is, when i pull back slowly on the charging handle, the bolt locks, but if i just rip it back its smooth, is that normal?

If you have an empty mag inserted in the mag well, then the bolt should lock back; if the mag well's empty, then the bolt shouldn't lock back.

 

[kingcheese]

Without a mag i have to rip it back to keep it from locking to the chamber

 

[greyling22]

i had to put a little lube on the bolt latch pivot pin area to get mine to work on my frankengun

 

[helotaxi]

Without a mag i have to rip it back to keep it from locking to the chamber

Something's not right. The charging handle should engage the gas key and pull the carrier to the rear. The bolt should stay put until the cam pin rotates it to disengage the locking lugs. There shouldn't be much of any resistance to this. How well is the BCG lubed?