AR rifles - which one and why?

[jeepmor]

I'm looking at AR rifles and am not keen on the specifics whatsoever. But why are they so expensive? Which is the best brand, is there a handsdown best, or is it all personal preference?

And lastly, what is the cheapest way to put a good one together and how specific do I need to be while amassing the parts? Do I have to use the same brand throughout? I want a 223 model, no pistol cartridges please. Where should I look for the best deals and what type of accessories would be best, and why? It will be a primarily a plinker, but it will have the duty of home defense when it's not at the range.

I really like the adjustable stock models, can the fixed stock models be switched out with the adjustable or do I need to look specifically at the adjustable ones?

Can you tell how green I am regarding these rifles, pretty obvious huh?

jeepmor

 

[Alex45ACP]

I was in the same boat a couple days ago.

Here's a thread I made: http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=169386

Some good info in there.

Also check out AR15.com

 

[kahr404life]

Well Jeepmor, your about to bite into the apple. AR's are very simple (as long as GI spec parts are used). Bushmaster Firearms, Rock River Arms, and Stag Arms are good starting points. Look at those sites and come back to ask your new questions .

 

[Too Many Choices!?]

Sorry but NMI(need more info)

I like the M4 or shorter for home defense, as the added velocity of,"Rifle length barrels",does not really help since at home defense ranges, all spec 55 gr FMJ, soft point, or hollow point ammo should be at fragmentation/expansion velocities when they hit. But I am sure you will find this out at ARF.com...

Welcome to the,"Darkside"!

PS-I Hope you got deep pockets, they are addictive !

 

[TheLastBoyScout]

Bushmaster M4A3 config.

The AR15 is an inherently short to medium range rifle. Take the M4 configuration to optimize its utility in this niche, and you probably won't miss any slight range advantage over the full length.

I've got both, and the M4 clone is much handier and more fun to shoot (my range only goes to 100 anyway).

Pay the extra money to get the removable carryhandle. Eventually you'll probably want to mount an optic, and if you use a CH mount, you're not gonna save much money, and you'll have some extreme scope offset/cheekweld difficulty to deal with.

 

[lycanthrope]

Cheapest way for a good rifle?

Stripped lower receiver from RB precision or Eagle firearms: $80-$100

J&T kit: $500

Pretty much any style AR you want for $600.

 

[Dave Markowitz]

IMO from good amount of online research and some personal experience:

The best quality factory-built AR-15s you can buy are Colts. The parts are all made to milspec, e.g., the barrels undergo magnetic particle flux inspection, and they have M4 feedramps, which enhance feeding reliability.

Granted, you'll pay more for a Colt. If they're out of your budget, ArmaLite, Bushmaster, and Rock River Arms make good rifles. I've been reading some nice things about Stag Arms lately, as well.

I have an AR-15A3 Tactical (AR6721), which has a heavy barrel with 1:9" twist. The Law Enforcement Carbine (LE6920) has an M4 profile barrel and will be lighter, plus has a 1:7" twist.

A 1:9" twist will shoot bullets up to ~70 grains OK, while the 1:7" twist will accurately shoot bullets up to 77 grains or so. Chrome lined barrels are easier to clean and provide better corrosion resistance than plain bores.

I prefer a 16" carbine as on the 6721 or the 6920 to the 20" barrels for a general purpose rifle, especially if the gun is to be used for home defense. I also like having a telescoping stock, since it not only collapses for storage, but allows you to adjust length of pull to accomodate different shooters or clothing.

Get a flattop rifle with a carrying handle. Learn to shoot it well with the iron sights on the carrying handle first, then think about removing the CH and putting optics on it.

Use only USGI magazines for best reliability, which are easily available for under $20 each. I prefer the 20 rounders since the rifle handles better than with 30s. All USGI mags are made of aluminum, not steel or plastic.

 

[rbernie]

I assembled my first AR from a kit, and I wound up on the wrong side of some parts tolerance issues. If you want to spend more time shooting that wrenching, I'd recommend that you buy complete assemblies (assembled lower, assembled upper) from a respected manufacturer rather than build from a parts kit. Bushmaster, Rock River Arms, Colt, Armalite, and DPMS are all good; my most recent purchases have been from Armalite and RRA and their fit/finish has been superb.

Seems to me that most folks that casually shoot an AR at the range use 55gr commercial/milsurp ammo. If that's all you're going to need (60+ gr ammo isn't on the agenda), then the cheapest way to a good-quality basic AR would probably be a RRA complete M4 lower for $235 from Eagle, RRA bolt carrier group + charging handle for $125 from Eagle, and Colt SP1 upper (complete, 1-12" twist) for $270 from CDNN. Total investment = $630. It won't shoot 77gr OTM fodder, but for standard 55gr WWB/Q3131A/M193 ammo it'll shoot great, last a long time, and hardly ever break.

For another $100-$150, you can step up to a RRA or Bushy or Armalite upper that'll have a 1-9" or 1-7" twist rate and allow you to shoot heavier bullets.

If you're going to get a 16" barrel instead of a 20", I'm a fan of the mid-length gas system. Both Armalite and RRA offer it.

If you're going to get a 20" barrel, handle both a HBAR and GI profile barrels before you buy either. I'm NOT a fan of the 20" HBAR/heavy barrels; they're too muzzle-heavy for me and the balance is all wrong. The GI-profile barrel won't be *quite* as accurate in rapid fire strings as an HBAR but you'll probably find that it'll handle much better.

If you're trying to do this inexpensively, you'll probably want to stick with an A1/A2 style upper. Flattop/M4 uppers are certaonly more versatile, but will cost you extra $$$ to either equip it with optics or buy iron sights for it.

 

[KC&97TA]

both the Carbines and full length serve seperate and dual purposes, it's all up to you. This is what I have

I picked up 2 CMMG inc lowers, and basicaly have cloned the Rock River Arms manufactured rifles. The only reason I build my own is because I currently live in Commy Cali, or I would have just bought them out right.

This is what I'm working on building right now. Don't know what the total cost will be yet... retail $950 before tax and registration

This is what I have build. My cost was $1168, with free gun smithing. Retail $1265 before tax and registration fees

wifes exact gun has green hand guards and stock, forgot to mentinon she has some crazy 2 stage trigger that starts with a 'G' that was $299

 

[davek]

I'm just starting down the AR road myself.

Recieved my Stag Arms stripped lower yesterday.

Next will be a RRA single stage lower parts kit, and then plan to top it off with a midlength upper...probably RRA, but am vascilating between the 1:9 Chrome Moly barrel and the 1:8 Stainless.

 

[Kramer Krazy]

I've got a 1990 Colt 20" H-bar and a 1993 (maybe 1994) Bushmaster with the 11.5" barrel and 5.5" flash hider (bought both new). I've been wanting to build another one, but for the configuration I want, I figure I'm best off buying an assembled rifle, instead of building it and potentially running into compatibility issues between upper and lower receivers (Accu-wedges were made for this purpose) and tolerance extremes. Even with the el cheapo kits in the Shotgun News being around $450 shipped to my door, and then a stripped lower and local FFL fees, I'm looking at $600+. I've seen DPMS assembled guns for $650-$680 that would only require $30 more dollars in shipping and my FFL's fee. With this combo, I'd have a gun that was pre-assembled and pre-fired, and a company to send it back to if it has some issues. It really isn't as big as an issue as you may think, though, as completely assembling a lower receiver is no big deal, as in my younger days, I once changed out nearly every component in my Bushmaster lower (in recent years, I swapped allt he parts back out), and most uppers are already pre-assembled, head-spaced, and test fired.....if they come with the bolt and bolt carrier.

For another $100-$200, I could start getting into better brand name stuff. I've seen new Bushmasters for under $800 at www.aimsurplus.com in the past (I recall a 16" carbine A2 for $759 a while back). Another issue with an assembled gun is that a lot of people won't want to buy it if you want to get rid of it. If I had a choice between three guns: one you built, one I'll build, or a factory assembled one; the one you built would be my last choice with the factory assembled one being my preference. Many people feel the same way. It's easier to personalize if you build it yourself, though. Me, I prefer an out-the-box stock A2 with 16" or 20" h-bar. I'm not fond of tacky-cool stuff, especially on an AR....guess it is just me, though.

 

[Redlg155]

The best benefit of assembling your rifle is that you have an actual working knowlege of your rifle and components as well as being able to spread out the cost of the rifle. It kills me to see someone at the range at a complete loss when their AR malfunctions or breaks a part.

AR15.com has a wealth of information that will definitely help as well as sources to purchase a rifle. Try looking at the Equipment Exchange section.

Good Shooting
Red

 

[lycanthrope]

And all the kits I've worked with have the upper already assembled.....the AR is a simple weapon.

 

[wdlsguy]

J&T kit: $500

Or Del-Ton:

http://www.del-ton.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=79

 

[taliv]

AR rifles - which one = all of them


and why? moral imperative





rock river 20"
because they use the wylde chamber and make a solid rifle.