I do almost all my shooting at my house I have a 50yd range that we shoot allot of .22 and hear and there 7.62x54 but I finally built a ar-15 so know .223 also I am looking around to have probably 5-7 hanging targets to shoot at of different sizes. I am not sure if I need the 3/8 or 1/2 inch ones and were is the cheapest place to order these from I will make my own hanging device and with scrap metal and welder. We also shoot 45,38,380,9 up closer on the range also. Any tips or advice to prevent from wasting money on the wrong stuff. Thanks in advance.
ar500 shooting target questions
- Thread starter badbowtie
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I believe that all of my AR500 targets are 0.5 thick. Of course, right now they are 3 hours away at the farm. 
. But, 50 yards might be too close. Mine indicate shooting at minimum of 100 yards. Also, watch the velocity with the .223, and no FMJs, HPs or BTs. Soft point only, or you can mark them up quickly
Geno
. But, 50 yards might be too close. Mine indicate shooting at minimum of 100 yards. Also, watch the velocity with the .223, and no FMJs, HPs or BTs. Soft point only, or you can mark them up quicklyGeno
hey_poolboy
Member
I've bought all of mine from bobcat steel. Nice folks.
I have some of both, but mostly 3/8". I've shot them with everything up to 30-06 and only have a couple dents. .45 shoot mostly 10yds and out. I've had a buddy shoot them at 75 yds with the 30-06 I wouldn't try that regularly...If you hang them down from two points so they can move but not spin it will help.
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I have some of both, but mostly 3/8". I've shot them with everything up to 30-06 and only have a couple dents. .45 shoot mostly 10yds and out. I've had a buddy shoot them at 75 yds with the 30-06 I wouldn't try that regularly...If you hang them down from two points so they can move but not spin it will help.
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Ar500
AR500 is probably the best overall material for rifle and pistol.
You can use mild steel for pistol targets which is good for all but the magnum rounds, which will dimple it. I shoot pistols as close as about 7 yds.
Rifle fire is a bit different. Most steel target mfgs. tell you 100 yds min. This is for liability reasons.
Thickness differs on caliber/velocity.
Most rifles can hit 3/8" AR500 without too much "dimpling" but larger or smaller/faster should get you into 1/2" thick material.
This is mild steel with pistol fire. The dimples are marginal and can be ground off with a grinder.
Rifle fire on mild is bad. This is a mild steel test plate with 3 pistol rounds. 9mm, .40 S&W and .44 mag. The rifle rounds are 30-30, 30-06, 7.62X39 (2), 7.62X51 (2), .223 and .300 Wmag. If you hit an existing crater or part of it, there is a good chance big pieces will come back at you. AR500 doesn't crater with regular rifle fire (excluding heavy magnums).
MGM targets makes some cool stuff and I have a few self resetting Colt speed plates from them.
Here is some good steel target shooting information.
http://www.actiontarget.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/pt_Steel_Target_Resource_Guide.pdf
AR500 is probably the best overall material for rifle and pistol.
You can use mild steel for pistol targets which is good for all but the magnum rounds, which will dimple it. I shoot pistols as close as about 7 yds.
Rifle fire is a bit different. Most steel target mfgs. tell you 100 yds min. This is for liability reasons.
Thickness differs on caliber/velocity.
Most rifles can hit 3/8" AR500 without too much "dimpling" but larger or smaller/faster should get you into 1/2" thick material.
This is mild steel with pistol fire. The dimples are marginal and can be ground off with a grinder.
Rifle fire on mild is bad. This is a mild steel test plate with 3 pistol rounds. 9mm, .40 S&W and .44 mag. The rifle rounds are 30-30, 30-06, 7.62X39 (2), 7.62X51 (2), .223 and .300 Wmag. If you hit an existing crater or part of it, there is a good chance big pieces will come back at you. AR500 doesn't crater with regular rifle fire (excluding heavy magnums).
MGM targets makes some cool stuff and I have a few self resetting Colt speed plates from them.
Here is some good steel target shooting information.
http://www.actiontarget.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/pt_Steel_Target_Resource_Guide.pdf
500/550
cost.
From the link I posted.
"Be careful not to get caught up in the “more is better”
mindset. Just because a Brinell hardness number (BHN) of 500
is good, it doesn’t mean a rating of 700 is better. While yo
u must use steel that is hard enough for the task, going
overboard only impacts your checkbook and not the product
durability. For example, ballistic tests have shown that
the performance difference between steel with a 500 BHN and
steel with a 535 BHN is so small that you can’t tell the
difference with a bullet, but only with a gauge. Also be awar
e that you can actually use steel that is too hard and too
brittle for ballistic training purposes"
cost.
From the link I posted.
"Be careful not to get caught up in the “more is better”
mindset. Just because a Brinell hardness number (BHN) of 500
is good, it doesn’t mean a rating of 700 is better. While yo
u must use steel that is hard enough for the task, going
overboard only impacts your checkbook and not the product
durability. For example, ballistic tests have shown that
the performance difference between steel with a 500 BHN and
steel with a 535 BHN is so small that you can’t tell the
difference with a bullet, but only with a gauge. Also be awar
e that you can actually use steel that is too hard and too
brittle for ballistic training purposes"
Steve in PA
Member
The only ammo not recommended to by shot at steel, whether it is 3/8" or 1/2" is armor piercing ammo. FMJ, HP, etc is fine. I've shot plenty of .223 FMJ at steel plates during training courses. Just have to watch the distance.
MtnCreek
Member
223 FMJ's will mark up steel, even at 300 yds.
BoilerUP
Member
I've had 55gr FMJ lightly dimple 1/2" AR500 at 40yd (have to thank a family "friend" for that...) but anything 100yd and over does not leave a permanent mark on my plates.
AR plate
I've read on other boards that some people damage their AR steel by shooting close or high speed bullets. I don't know how much difference it makes when we shoot at 25 or 100 . How much difference is there in velocity at these different distances?
Some of the general consensus is that people think they are shooting at AR500 plate but it may not be 500 based on the damage as seen in pics posted.
AR400 or lesser grade steel will not hold up as well as AR500 to rifle fire.
Just some thoughts.
I've read on other boards that some people damage their AR steel by shooting close or high speed bullets. I don't know how much difference it makes when we shoot at 25 or 100 . How much difference is there in velocity at these different distances?
Some of the general consensus is that people think they are shooting at AR500 plate but it may not be 500 based on the damage as seen in pics posted.
AR400 or lesser grade steel will not hold up as well as AR500 to rifle fire.
Just some thoughts.
1KPerDay
Member
They will show dimples at that range from rifle fire. Whether that bothers you or not is the question.
Ar500
I am currently in the process of fabricating a couple and modifying a couple steel targets I have.
I'm making this. I bought 2 each AR500 6" rounds for heads and 2 bodies (COM) (7 1/2" X 13") from Wideners. I bought 20' of 3/8" thick X 2" wide mild steel to cut 4 vertical supports. The baseplates were given to me from a contractor at the Consol Energy Center when I worked there.
I was going to use hose or nylon straps to hold the steel but may opt for a 1" bar stock cross support and protect it with a piece of AR400 which I can also get from my local steel supplier. I burned the supports for either 1" bar stock, chain or some kind of hose/strap.
The plates haven't been delivered yet so before I heat and bend the verticals, I'll fit everything up and see how much side clearance I have. I'm thinking i'll have to offset each by about 6" or so.
I also beveled the leading edges.
I'll update as I get further along.
I have these spring plates I fabbed with mild steel faces
I'm replacing the faces with 8" AR500 plates and reworking the 2" pipe supports to be similar to the 3/8" vertical as in the previous target. I'll bevel the edge. I have yet to figure out how to attach the plates to allow some swivel to rear when hit but I'll come up with something.
Retirement. Not such a bad thing.
I am currently in the process of fabricating a couple and modifying a couple steel targets I have.
I'm making this. I bought 2 each AR500 6" rounds for heads and 2 bodies (COM) (7 1/2" X 13") from Wideners. I bought 20' of 3/8" thick X 2" wide mild steel to cut 4 vertical supports. The baseplates were given to me from a contractor at the Consol Energy Center when I worked there.
I was going to use hose or nylon straps to hold the steel but may opt for a 1" bar stock cross support and protect it with a piece of AR400 which I can also get from my local steel supplier. I burned the supports for either 1" bar stock, chain or some kind of hose/strap.
The plates haven't been delivered yet so before I heat and bend the verticals, I'll fit everything up and see how much side clearance I have. I'm thinking i'll have to offset each by about 6" or so.
I also beveled the leading edges.
I'll update as I get further along.
I have these spring plates I fabbed with mild steel faces
I'm replacing the faces with 8" AR500 plates and reworking the 2" pipe supports to be similar to the 3/8" vertical as in the previous target. I'll bevel the edge. I have yet to figure out how to attach the plates to allow some swivel to rear when hit but I'll come up with something.
Retirement. Not such a bad thing.
josiewales
Member
- Joined
- May 1, 2011
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- 694
DAng! I thought this was gonna be a thread on a S&W 500 ar15!
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