Auto terminology for revolver shooter?

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I am a revolver only shooter and a friend has asked for help in looking at semi-autos. Is there a concise listing of terminology and definitions for terminology that would be new to revolver shooters, i.e., decocker, DAO vs DA, etc?

Less important, but also appreciated would be suggestions for a pistol that would probably never be carried, probably 9 mm (or not), a trigger that would encourage a new shooter and the value of those features described by the above terminology?

Remember, new (Brit expat) and most likely casual shooter that I'd like to encourage.
 
if you look up at the very top right corner you will see THR library link, there is a link in there to acronyms that might help.
 
The many different trigger systems and their terminology can confuse even the experts !!!
 
Here are some basics:
Trigger types

SAO = Single Action Only. This is not quite like the single action wheel guns, in that you don't have to cock the hammer on every shot. You only have to rack the slide or cock the hammer on a loaded chamber. The trigger pull is usually fairly light, in the sub 5# range. The most notable ones of these are the 1911 design pistols.

Traditional DA/SA = a long stiff pull of about 8-15lbs on the first shot, if the hammer/striker is not cocked. The usual method of carry is decocked. This way, after a round is chambered by racking the slide, the gun is then decocked either manually by using a rather unsafe method of catching the hammer while pulling the trigger, or a more safe way of using a decocking lever. The subsequent shots will be in single action and similar to the above type gun. The reasons for this are to prevent accidental early discharges, but it can have a negative impact on accuracy as the trigger pull changes during the firing process.

DAO = Double Action Only. The more traditional versions of these decock the hammer automatcially after every shot. Thus, each pull is like the first heavy double action shot of a DA/SA. Usually, manufacturers go towards the lighter end of double action pull weight. However, the trigger is more consistent, as each pull is like the last. This is often used by police forces, because the suits think it is safer.

LEM/DAK etc = a modified double action that works like above, with a shorter travel and shorter reset for the trigger. The pull is usually in the 6-9# range and many like these types of trigger.

Other words to know:

It is not a clip, it is a magazine. Unless you are using something exotic, its a magazine. Clips hold rounds that feed into magazines.

C&L = cocked and locked. This is the process that is often done on guns like the 1911 and CZ 75B design. The hammer is cocked back ready to fire, and the gun is "locked" with a safety. A round is in the chamber, ready to fire. The weilder need only flick the safety to use the gun.
 
C&L = cocked and locked. This is the process that is often done on guns like the 1911 and CZ 75B design. The hammer is cocked back ready to fire, and the gun is "locked" with a safety. A round is in the chamber, ready to fire. The weilder need only flick the safety to use the gun.

Hello, what if the gun is a Glock where there isn't an external safety, but an internal safety? Just asking.
 
Then it can't be carried cocked and locked. The glock safety is not a manual safety, so you can't lock it. Also, the glock safety is more of a preventative from firing in case the gun were to be dropped, struck, etc. Pulling the trigger makes it go bang. There is no "single action" mode in a glock, or an XD, or that type of weapon. Cocked and locked should prevent the weapon from firing even if the trigger is depressed.

Also, to be safe with decocking, realize that when mechanical items are involved, there can be failures. Never EVER decock a weapon in an unsafe way with the weapon pointing in any direction other than one you would be willing to shoot. The safety rules for handling a firearm ALL still apply. To be extra safe, you should probably stick a standard pencil down the bore of your weapon when it is EMPTY and decock. If the pencil jumps, don't trust the gun to decock.
 
Hello, what if the gun is a Glock where there isn't an external safety, but an internal safety? Just asking.
Glocks are not fully cocked until just before the connector releases the striker. The slide cycling cocks the striker approx 60%. The trigger pull then finishes cocking and releases the striker. Hence, a Glock can't be "cocked & locked".

The LEM/DAK are similar, but they're used on pistols with hammers & firing pins, not strikers. The slide cycling pre-tensions the mainspring to some degree, then the trigger pull fully cocks the hammer (applying the remainder of the tension to the mainspring while doing so), and releases it to strike the firing pin. Para Ordnance pioneered this concept on traditional hammer & firing pin autos. They named it LDA for Light Double Action, and that's exactly what it is. S&W and Kel-Tec use similar systems, but neither hypes it with a special name like the three systems above.
 
Back to the Original Topic

Mr. Meredith, with apologies, I'll now try and adress your original inquiries.

Is there a concise listing of terminology and definitions for terminology that would be new to revolver shooters, i.e., decocker, DAO vs DA, etc?
Yes. THR Moderator Emeritus PAX has an excellent website. Here's a link to "Words, Words, Words" which is a great shooting terms glossary. http://www.corneredcat.com/Words/Glossary.htm. The rest of the site is full of other great info for shooters new and seasoned as well, so browse around.
Less important, but also appreciated would be suggestions for a pistol that would probably never be carried, probably 9 mm (or not), a trigger that would encourage a new shooter and the value of those features described by the above terminology?

Remember, new (Brit expat) and most likely casual shooter that I'd like to encourage.
New shooter, highly unlikely to carry, interested mostly in casual shooting. I must recommend a .22 LR to start with. Virtually no recoil, mild report, very cheap to shoot so practice is easy on the wallet. For a quality piece that's stood the test of time a Ruger MKIII (or the eralier MKI & MKII) or 22/45; alternately a Browning Buck Mark are generally regarded as the best of the breed in 22 Semi-Autos.

If he wants to go with a centerfire, the 9mm is an excellent choice. Again, (relatively) mild recoil, and low cost (cheapest centerfire ammo available) are great benefits. The round is also plenty for Home/Self Defense with proper ammo.

For more good advice see http://www.corneredcat.com/TOC/TOC.htm#FirstGun. Of particular note is "Trying On a Handgun" under that heading. Great article with pictures explaining gun fit. A gun that fits the shooter goes a long toward shooter enjoyment.
 
"Auto terminology for revolver shooter?" (lighthearted)

1) whatchamacallit

2) whosamawhatsit

3) thingamabob

4) clickityclackityclunk

5) supercalifragilisticexpealidocious

:neener: :evil: :p :D ;)
 
Excellent! I knew THRers would have the answers.

I shoot revolvers only in way of handguns, so next it will be off to a rental range for some hands on.
 
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