Avenging Angel snub nose revolver club

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Sistema1927 said:
Wow, just wow.

Quick question: What is the reason for the protruding screws?
Click to expand...
They have something to do with the 1860s that take a detachable stock. Since there are holes in the frame there the screws are really just filler to cap those holes.
I assume a stock screws in there somehow but I really don't know how they attach. Never handled one with a stock on it.
 
The stock has "ears" that loop over those screws and then you tighten a clamp that hooks into the notch in the bottom of the grip frame. Some people grind those screws down so that they fit flush and some others make plugs for the holes instead, when they don't have a stock. I'm going to do one or the other as those protruding screws do bother me at times.
 
JohnnyCremains said:
They have something to do with the 1860s that take a detachable stock. Since there are holes in the frame there the screws are really just filler to cap those holes.
I assume a stock screws in there somehow but I really don't know how they attach. Never handled one with a stock on it.
Click to expand...

Actually the shoulder stock has a sort of cowling that fits over the rear top of the grip with two projections that lock into the recesses on the underside of the recoil shield, and this cowl has two recesses which lock over those two screwheads.
A "J" shaped device with a threaded top locks into a recess milled into the heel of the grip and is manually tightened down by a threaded header on top. The way you altered the grip on yours precludes the use of a stock.
 
Thanks for the replies. I thought about doing some kind of filler screw there as I've seen some originals where the screws are flush. I assume those were filler screws. But in the end I just wanted to be done :)
 
JohnnyCremains said:
Here it is. Came out really nice I think.

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if I may ask where did you have that work done and roughly whats something like that costs? thanks!
 
Here's how the stock attaches to the pistol. The stock sits on the screws and goes into notches on the recoil shield. The hook on the bottom goes into a notch in the bottom of the grip frame. When the screw is tightened it applies pressure on all thee points of attachment

 
midland man said:
if I may ask where did you have that work done and roughly whats something like that costs? thanks!
Click to expand...

I did all the work myself except for the plating and the fire bluing. I didn't count how many hours I have into it but it was a lot since it was cut, filed and polished all by hand. I do have a buffing wheel that I used at the end for some of the final polishing but other than that everything is by hand.
The gun cost me $300, the grip frame was $187, the fire bluing was $88. The plating was free because I have a friend at the plating house that did it. Its not for sale but if it was it would be very expensive. But as it sits I have $575 into it total.
I forwarded pictures of this to Cimarron because I think they/Uberti should make a factory version of this gun. To me the only factory Avenging Angel type revolvers available on the market look like crap. With a little bit of thought put into them they can be really beautiful revolvers. And Uberti would have the resources to make something like this so it wouldn't be super expensive.
I also think my versions of the 1851 Navy should be considered by Cimarron/Uberti.
At some point I may make one out of one of their 1851 conversions in .38 Special.
I think that would look pretty outstanding done exactly like this one.
 
JohnnyCremains said:
.
At some point I may make one out of one of their 1851 conversions in .38 Special.
I think that would look pretty outstanding done exactly like this one.
Click to expand...

Just my opinion, but the 1851 Navy bore diameter is for .380" soft lead round ball. .38 Special bullets are .357" diameter. That would be like a small pebble rattling down a large pipe. I think the accuracy would be very poor.

Another consideration would be to convert a replica 1851 Navy .36 to .22 LR using this spendy item that has the rifled barrel insert (I have entertained that idea but the funds are not forthcoming):

http://www.kirstkonverter.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=19&cat=.22+cal++Konverters

Good luck, twaits!

Jim
 
expat_alaska said:
Just my opinion, but the 1851 Navy bore diameter is for .380" soft lead round ball. .38 Special bullets are .357" diameter. That would be like a small pebble rattling down a large pipe. I think the accuracy would be very poor.

Another consideration would be to convert a replica 1851 Navy .36 to .22 LR using this spendy item that has the rifled barrel insert (I have entertained that idea but the funds are not forthcoming):

http://www.kirstkonverter.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=19&cat=.22+cal++Konverters

Good luck, twaits!

Jim
Click to expand...

Jim,

I was thinking this one:

http://www.cimarron-firearms.com/pr...851-conversions/1851-richards-mason-navy.html

I'm not sure but I assume Cimarron/Uberti makes this at the proper bore diameter for .38 special. It wouldn't be historically accurate but still cool to have one of these that was cut down.
 
Don't mean to dredge up an old post but I couldn't let something that handsome pass without comment; Nice work JohnnyCremains!
Ever since getting bit with the CAS bug again I have been looking at making an Avenging Angel for my pocket pistol choice, or just because I think they are good looking little 6 guns! I have a brass framed 1858 Remmy that I am thinking about doing a Beliveau treatment to and picked up a brass framed 1851 Navy "Sheriff" when they were on sale at Cabela's a while back (it was $149, how could I walk out without one?) with the sole intention of making an AA out of it to try my hand at it. There's a lot of talent in these pages, thanks for the inspiration!
 
One question; where do you find the bird's head grips? I really like the ones I see on the Thunderers but have a Heritage Rough Rider with the bird's head and it's pretty comfortable too, I just want to find some for the Piettas I have so I can make them look the way I want.
 
DDees said:
One question; where do you find the bird's head grips? I really like the ones I see on the Thunderers but have a Heritage Rough Rider with the bird's head and it's pretty comfortable too, I just want to find some for the Piettas I have so I can make them look the way I want.
Click to expand...
yeah I like birdsheads grips myself so please tell us!! :)
 
I bought a "Thunderer" in 44cal. I have taken the little beast with on several occasions, I have permit to carry. The "Thunderer" that was sold to me from Old South has the standard 1860 army cylinder. Mine shoots just under 2 inches at 10 yards ,standing with a 2 hand grip,round ball,and 30 grains of Pyrodex. It also shoots right on the money Point of aim. Surprised the heck out me. A real fun gun to shoot. Going to get some Triple 7,and maybe start at 25 grains,and see what happens,,,,,
 
I heard some words of wisdom from an old wood carver that applies here...
Those stock grips have birdshead grips hidden inside. You just remove all the parts that don't look like a birdshead grip.
In all seriousness, there is enough material to work with in the grip frame and wood to make yourself up a nice birdshead.
 
I didn't want to go through the hassle of converting the standard grip frame to birds head so I just bought an Uberti grip frame from VTI gun parts. At first they said the wait was going to be up to 3 or 4 months because they didn't have any in stock. Then a nice lady called me and said they had one that had a slight blemish if I wanted that one at a reduced cost. I was thrilled of course since I was just going to strip the frame and grips down and refinish them anyhow. Anyway, the birdshead grip frames for SAAs work on the 1860 Armies and that's what's on my gun. They had to be bent a bit into place and the grips needed to be filed to fit the frame perfectly, but it wasn't hard at all to install.

Here's the company, real nice people:

http://www.vtigunparts.com/store/
 
Thanks, I have a inventory request with them in now! By dumb luck, I located a match to my 1851 Navy "Marshal" .44 at a pawn shop so I am looking at buying it before I get anything I need to make the AA simply because I need to stretch the money a bit since that was an unplanned purchase.
 
So, here is my pair of 1851 Colt Navies, the Marshal has the fluted cylinder, the Sheriff has the engraved cylinder;

And here is the beginning of my Avenging Angel from a brass framed 51 Navy;

I have some more work to finish truing the muzzle face and properly crown and profile the under lug where the plunger assembly would be. The barrel is at 2.6" and when I am finished it should be 2.5". I am going to order a birdshead grip frame to really finish the look I want and would like to use the acorn sight on this shorter barrel but have never messed with one before so I was hoping to glean a little knowledge to see if I can even get it out of the barrel stub? I have been looking at some of the lines where parts are coming together and I am starting to consider working on fit and finish some and melting some of the edges for comfort but all in all I think I'm off to a good start, LOL!
 
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