Vitrophyre
Member
What's the best way to remove an oil stain on my kimber's .45 stainless barrel hood? I'm afraid what scotch pads and sandpaper will do, so I'm thinking my best option is to shoot it out 
Barrel hood oil stain
- Thread starter Vitrophyre
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rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Shoot it out of the barrel hood??
Is it outside on the the barrel hood, or inside the chamber??
I would try some Flitz or 0000 Extra Fine steel wool & oil.
rc
Is it outside on the the barrel hood, or inside the chamber??
I would try some Flitz or 0000 Extra Fine steel wool & oil.
rc
Vitrophyre
Member
I'd like to know what a professional gunsmith would do to polish this back to it's original condition. I got most of it off with some elbow grease.
Thanks
Yes yes, I took the stickers off
Thanks
Yes yes, I took the stickers off
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Use a strip of 400 grit black emery paper and "shoe shine" the barrel hood.
That's what a professional gunsmith would do.
(If he didn't do it on his belt sander with an extra-fine worn-out belt!)
That's how I do it.
rc
That's what a professional gunsmith would do.
(If he didn't do it on his belt sander with an extra-fine worn-out belt!)
That's how I do it.
rc
simonriece
Member
Dremel
Get a Dremel and the associated head and polishing compound for stainless steel. You don't want to be more abusive than you have to be. If you haven't used a dremel before than buy a piece of 416 or 440 stainless and get used to polishing it before attempting to polish the barrel. If you become adept you could also polish the throat, although with a different head and compound.
Get a Dremel and the associated head and polishing compound for stainless steel. You don't want to be more abusive than you have to be. If you haven't used a dremel before than buy a piece of 416 or 440 stainless and get used to polishing it before attempting to polish the barrel. If you become adept you could also polish the throat, although with a different head and compound.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
You will mess it up with a Dremel.
If you look closely I bet it has fine scratches running 90 degrees to the barrel.
The only way to duplicate that is the way I told you too in post #5.
Polishing with a Dremel will result in a high gloss polish that won't match the factory finish at all, and it will look bad in very short order from the slide rubbing across it.
rc
If you look closely I bet it has fine scratches running 90 degrees to the barrel.
The only way to duplicate that is the way I told you too in post #5.
Polishing with a Dremel will result in a high gloss polish that won't match the factory finish at all, and it will look bad in very short order from the slide rubbing across it.
rc
Vitrophyre
Member
I'd rather not purchase a dremel if I can get away with that. I'd like to do it manually if I couldnt. I think the Bar Keeper's friend sounds like a good idea, but I'm not sure what the chemicals will do to stainless steel. I assume if you use it on sinks it would be okay.
RC why do you recommend black emery over sand paper? 400 sounds a little harsh if we were talking sand paper, but I assume its different for black emery?
RC why do you recommend black emery over sand paper? 400 sounds a little harsh if we were talking sand paper, but I assume its different for black emery?
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
I recommend black 400 emery because that is what you should use to match the factory cross-hatch finish.
It is designed for use on steel and other hard surfaces for a fine finish.
Sandpaper isn't, and will leave deep scratches you don't want.
rc
It is designed for use on steel and other hard surfaces for a fine finish.
Sandpaper isn't, and will leave deep scratches you don't want.
rc
simonriece
Member
What part of appropriate head and compound didn't you understand. I also wrote that he should practice it before attempting it.
Vitrophyre
Member
Thank you both very much for your support!
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