Been thinking about buying a bullet mold

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Mixed Nuts

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I've been thinking about buying a bullet mold for a .357 magnum revolver.

Wanted 158 grain bullets or heavier.

Was considering a lyman #358 429 mold throwing 170 grain bullets.

Or

A Seco Redding #354 throwing 180grain bullets.

The lyman #358 429 was my original choice, but just a little searching around lead me to some disappointed casters who lament that the lyman mold is throwing small bullets. .356 or so.

Is this a real thing? I wanted a steel mold, something tough and long lasting. And I always thought lymam had a great rep, but I don't want to take the chance on a bad mold.

Anyway, I haven't slugged my barrel but even it was smallish I still wouldn't want a .357 mold that didn't throw .358 bullets.

Question: Are the lyman critics right?

And, if so, any steel mold reccomemdations for heavier .357 bullets?
 
You might want to consider a 158 grain Lyman mold. I started casting with a 158 grain rnfp mold and with wheel weights the bullets average 166 grains.
 
Mixed Nuts said:
Question: Are the lyman critics right?
Click to expand...
Well Lyman critics might be right about the molds Lyman has been building lately, but my Lyman 358429 single cavity mold throws .358" bullets. However, as near as I can figure, my Lyman 358429 mold is 35 years old.
I have an old Lyman 358156 mold too that doesn't throw undersized bullets. In fact, the one complaint I have about it is that the base of the bullets I cast with it are just slightly bigger around than they should be. That makes it difficult to install the gas-checks, especially the Hornady, crimp-on type checks. But even getting Lyman checks on those bullets is no picnic. I built a special little plate for my lube-sizer that helps me force gas-checks onto my Lyman 358156 bullets.
At any rate, I also like a couple of old, 44 caliber RCBS molds that I have. I have an aluminum 30 caliber (30-30) mold too that I tinkered around with for a while. Never did like its cheap, flimsy feel very much. But I quit casting for my 30-30, so I never did replace it with a good, steel mold.
 
Moulds are regulated with an alloy. Not all manufactures use the same alloy.

Bullet diameters get larger when the % of antimony is higher, or raised.

Bullets heavier then 158 gr may produce an OAL thats to long for the cylinder, in some model revolvers.

My older Lymans dropped bullets very close to the needed diameters. The 45 acp ,200 gr BB swc needs some linotype added to make .452" + diameter. Linotype adds the antimony to the casting pot.

Saeco molds case larger then needed for my 357, 44, 45acp.

RCBS molds worked well, made accurate bullets, but only 2 cavity. full.jpg
 
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Thanks Brewer, may go 158 as the load data for that weight is pretty deep.

Thanks .308 Norma. Hadn't even thought about gas checks. If I bought a gas check style bullet mold, could I shoot those bullets without the gas checks?

243Winxb, really interesting response. Your saying that if I buy a bullet mold and cast pure lead I'll get one size bullet... But if I cast lead and antimony I'll likely get a larger bullet. That bullet size is effected by the mix of lead with other metals. I did not know this. Thank you. Perhaps lyman critics are casting lead or impure lead that leads to smaller bullets.
 
Bullet Sizes & Weights – How to Vary Them
The bullet diameters and weights presented in this list are based on the use of Taracorp’s Lawrence Magnum bullet alloy (2% tin, 6% antimony, 1/4% arsenic, 91.75% lead).

Bullet diameters and weights will vary considerably depending on the lead casting alloy used. This variation can be as much as 1/2% on the diameter, and 8% on the weight among the most commonly used casting alloys. For example, a .358-158 grain bullet might show a diameter variation of .002", and a 13 grain difference in weight.

Of the most commonly used alloys, wheel weights (.5% tin, 4% antimony, 95% lead) will produce bullets having the smallest diameter and heaviest weight, with such bullets running approximately 1/3% smaller in diameter and 3% heavier than bullets cast with Taracorp's metal. Linotype will produce bullets with the largest diameter and lightest weights. This alloy will produce bullets approximately 1/10% larger and 3% lighter than Taracorp. Other alloys of tin and antimony, with antimony content above 5%, will produce bullets with diameters and weights falling between those cast f rom wheel weights and linotype.

Alloys containing little or no antimony will cast considerably smaller than wheel weights and in some cases will produce bullets too small for adequate sizing.

Within the limitations given above, the weight and diameter of a cast bullet can be adjusted by varying the
alloy’s antimony content.

The size and weight of bullets of a given alloy will also vary according to casting temperature. Higher temperatures will result in greater shrinkage as the bullet cools, thereby producing a slightly smaller and lighter bullet than one cast of the same alloy at a lower temperature. http://www.redding-reloading.com/online-catalog/88-bullet-moulds-charts
 
With a proper throat fit gas checks are not necessary for the 357 mag. You need to size your bore and cylinder throat before ordering a mold. Buy a mold that drops a slug slightly larger than you need and size to fit the gun.

About Lyman molds. I am no expert and won't hesitate to buy them. But there are many self-proclaimed experts out there. They all have one thing in common: axeholes.
 
From what I have read, "sometimes" you can shoot gas check bullets sans check and do well. Other times, not so much. If it were me, I would probably decide ahead of time whether I wanted to be gas checked or not and buy the appropriate mold. How hot a load are we talking about? Depending on the alloy you use, you might not need a check with proper sizing if the load is not too hot. OTOH, I will soon start casting for 35 Rem and I would not even consider running plain based bullets through it.
 
I may be spelling molds wrong. MOULDS?

Thanks again, 243Winxb, you've opened my eyes to a new topic I'm going to need to study a bit.

JessieHeywood, thanks for the reply, I'm leaning toward the lyman mold. It casts the style and weight that I want, and the bullet has been well regarded since before I was born. And lyman is well regarded. And the molds are are steel (I think).

Brewer12345, I guess the power of the loads is still not resolved in my mind, but if I cast 170 grain bullets, then I would probably be satisfied shooting them at 1000 to 1100 fps. If I cast lighter, I might want to shoot a little faster. Do you think 1100 needs gas checks? If the bullets were hardcast? I've heard that 1100 is okay un-checked but I don't know first hand. Never shot my 45 70 faster that 1375 and I always bought gas checked 405s.
 
Speed isn't the issue, pressure is. Google Glen fryxell and read up on pressure vs bullet hardness.
 
For bullet molds, when I want quality I will generally buy either from NOE or MP Molds. The molds I have from those companies are works of art and casting with them is amazing. The brass molds they make have many of the benefits of steel but are much lighter and easier for long casting sessions.
However, about 90% of my 38/357 shooting is done with the Lee 158gr RNFP. The 2 cavity was the mold I learned to cast with and I like the bullet so much I soon bought the six cavity version. Seems accurate in all my 38/357 revolvers and rifles and with I can cast up enough bullets for a year in next to no time.
I cast them out of range scrap with a bit of tin, powder coat, and size to 359 and regardless of how hard I push them I don't see any leading.
 
Brewer12345, thanks, I'll check out this Fryxell guy.

Ewlyon, don't know about NOE or MP will take a look. And I've looked at Lee molds. I've a friend who casts 45s with them and is happy. Dunno why I am drawn to the iron and steel moulds. Perhaps I think of them as more reliable over the long term. Of course, the older I get the shorter the long term gets anyway, haha. Maybe, from that view, lee looks better and better...

ArchAngelCD, thanks for the suggestion. After reading about the accuracy and effectiveness of LSWC, I've been looking at molds that cast such bullets. Is your suggestion based on ease of casting RN bullets? Because if it is - if RN bullets cast easier than LSWC - then that would be something to consider.
 
I've got a couple of older Lyman molds and the diameters are good. I've seen numerous posts regarding newer Lyman molds having under sized bullets but I have no idea if this is limited to specific molds or is even an issue any more.

Personally all the molds I buy are either NOE, Lee or MP molds. Lee is a great option if they have what you are looking for. The Lee six cavity molds for $40 are the best value molds available, hands down - no contest. NOE has a wide variety of stuff for reasonable prices. I have a couple brass molds but generally prefer aluminium. Aluminium is both cheaper, lighter and you don't have to worry about rust. Most of the newer manufacturers have embraced aluminium and at this point in time I would consider it a proven option.
 
Mixed Nuts said:
If I bought a gas check style bullet mold, could I shoot those bullets without the gas checks?
Click to expand...
brewer12345 said:
"sometimes" you can shoot gas check bullets sans check and do well. Other times, not so much
Click to expand...
What brewer12345 said, Mixed Nuts ("sometimes"). However, if I had only one 38 Special/.357 Magnum mold, it would be my Lyman 358429, or something very similar. I really like those relatively heavy, 170 grain "Keith" style SWCs in 38s and .357s. I've found that if they're properly sized and lubed, I can drive them pretty darned hard in my guns without leading up my barrels or dealing with gas checks.
That said, I've written in another thread about how my favorite, "Keith" style SWCs won't work in my new Freedom Arms .357. My new revolver's cylinder throats are so small in diameter, the wide, front driving bands those SWCs have won't allow me to shove a second round in the cylinder without cleaning it first. It's kinda like trying to shove a .357 in a .357 cylinder without cleaning the crud rings out after you've fired a bunch of 38 Specials in it.
At any rate, my favorite SWCs won't work in my new revolver. So I ordered some 170 gr. RNFPs with gas checks from Rim Rock Bullets up in Montana. They work, and I've come up with what seems to be a great, all-around load using them. They don't lead, and they seem accurate enough. But I need to do a little more testing in that department. That will have to wait - deer season opens up around here next week, and elk season opens up right after that.:)
 
Mixed Nuts said:
Brewer12345, thanks, I'll check out this Fryxell guy.

Ewlyon, don't know about NOE or MP will take a look. And I've looked at Lee molds. I've a friend who casts 45s with them and is happy. Dunno why I am drawn to the iron and steel moulds. Perhaps I think of them as more reliable over the long term. Of course, the older I get the shorter the long term gets anyway, haha. Maybe, from that view, lee looks better and better...

ArchAngelCD, thanks for the suggestion. After reading about the accuracy and effectiveness of LSWC, I've been looking at molds that cast such bullets. Is your suggestion based on ease of casting RN bullets? Because if it is - if RN bullets cast easier than LSWC - then that would be something to consider.
Click to expand...
My friend casts that mold and I shoot a lot of them. It matey be called a RN bullet but it does have a large flat top to it. Yes, SWC bullets are great but for some reason those molds are not in the current catalog and the used ones are hard to come by.

I forgot all about the molds made by NOE. They are top quality and you can get a new SWC mold from them. http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.php?cPath=35&osCsid=sir5n7cojaa2nk8h1j7sjpjqd1
They have many good molds in their inventory.
 
Km101, thanks, I've seen that site - with the girl riding the bullet - but I've never really looked around there. Good reminder.

Reddog81, I hear you. And, even with my limited experience, I can see a lot of reasons to go aluminum. Some part of my interest in steel and iron is probably inspired by dystopian survivalist fantasy. That is to say, it may not be entirely rational. :) I may like steel because I imagine I can rely on it after the big one hits or society collapses. Aluminum is likely the best adult choice for the guy looking to shoot volume and keep costs as low as possible.

.308Norma, thanks for the comment. I'm really starting to think that the lyman 358429 is worth the risk. I've got that mold and the lyman handles in an online cart right now.

ArchAngelCD, I should recheck that bullet, the 358665 i think it was. I saw only a graphic of the open mold, it looked round nosed, but I couldn't have sworn in court.
 
Mixed Nuts said:
ArchAngelCD, I should recheck that bullet, the 358665 i think it was. I saw only a graphic of the open mold, it looked round nosed, but I couldn't have sworn in court.
Click to expand...
If you fill in the options to the third spot, the Cavity size, you will see the picture of the bullet. For sure it's a flattened round nose with a large meplat.
 
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