beretta 391 hanging up

[sparky923]

I've got an AL391 Urika that I've had for a couple of years and I love it. The only problem is that it hangs up every now and then, and the problem seems to be getting more frequent. I clean it frequently and keep it oiled. The bolt stops in the same spot every time (about half-way closed). If you close the bolt slowly with your hands, it will stop in this postion (not every time). I thought maybe it just needed breaking in, but that doesn't explain why it seems to be occuring more frequently. I've only shot 1 1/2 to 2 cases through it and use it primarily for duck hunting.

Anybody got any ideas?

Thanks
Sparky923

 

[all things clay]

Well, my uncle had that problem too. It turned out that he had reassembled it in the wrong order. A small internal piece was also reversed. Sorry I can't give specifics. HTH....

 

[sparky923]

I've taken this thing down several times and always use the manual to put it back together so I don't think any parts are put in wrong. Like I said earlier, it doesn't hang up every time I go out and shoot, maybe two or three times a season while duck hunting, but I know this gun has a good reputation. And it happens even on 3" magnum loads. I'm just not sure if other have encountered this problem and if they did, what they did to remedy it.

Sparky923

 

[wheels3963]

i have a 303 12 gauge breatta that doe,s the same thing,i just notced it this year when i was sighting in the slug barrel,the bolt stoped halfway,did not eject the spent shell,i notced the same thing where there is a spot where the bolt stops if you move it slow,like it is tight there.this year is the first time iv ever had it happen,i took it down and cleaned it realy good,and hope it helps,iv not shot it yet.i was thinking maybe it was the return spring getting weak.i dont know if it keeps happening its off the the gun smith

 

[HSMITH]

How tight are you cranking down the mag tube cap? If you are putting more on it than two fingers with light pressure can do it is WAY too tight!! Tighten all you can get with two fingers and very light light pressure, then back it off one click. If your 5 year old son/daughter/grandson/whatever can't get the cap off you have it too tight.

I have seen this cause problems in the 390, 391, Browning Gold, Winchester SuperX2 and basically every other alloy framed autoloader. This even happens in steel frame guns.

It might not fix your gun but it is probably worth a shot.

 

[sparky923]

Thanks HSMITH

Did not know the capnut torque was an issue on these types of guns.

It did not correct the problem I'm having though. It's still got a binding spot halfway through the cycle.

I cannot recall a time when it has jammed while extracting a hull either. Seems like it always stops when the bolt is moving forward loading another shell into the chamber. All it takes is to bump the bolt and it slides the shell into the chamber.

Maybe some super slick oil will remedy it. Who knows...

 

[SwampWolf]

I'm having the same/similar problem as others have referenced on my 391 and, in the process, have learned the hard way that Beretta's customer "service" leaves a lot to be desired. I won't be able to try it any time soon but I'm very curious if HSMITH's proposed fix will have any effect. I've never heard of a problem with feeding/ejecting being associated with an over-tightened magazine cap. Believe me, though I've never used a tool or anything close to it to screw down a cap, I've always used a little more than "two fingers with light pressure".
Though I don't see how a reasonably tightened down magazine cap (the Beretta manual makes no distinction) would have any impact on the functioning of the action, I will sure give it a try at my earliest opportunity.

 

[HSMITH]

Sparky, is the hitch at the same place the elevator starts coming up?

 

[sparky923]

Yeah, I think it is. I don't have it with me right now, but thinking it over, that sounds about right.

 

[HSMITH]

If you can get it to do it regularly cycling slowly by hand I would send it in at the end of the duck season and have them look at it. It sounds like the elevator cam isn't working properly. The trigger groups aren't terribly complicated but are a miserable pain to take down and diagnose, and then you still have to put it back together.

 

[sparky923]

Thanks

After getting home and checking out exactly where the bolt is sticking, it does seem to be related to the elevator position. It is actually when the elevator is trying to be pushed back down.

The 2nd split opens up tomorrow and I'm going to get some kind of 'super lube' today and try out as a quick fix. I've always used Beretta or Outers gun oil on it. Any suggestions on any of the synthetic oils on the market?

Sparky

 

[HSMITH]

I run my trigger groups with just the lightest coat of oil I can put on, basically dry but with just enough oil to hold back the rust.

For the bolt, rails, carrier and that sort of stuff I have gone to Mobil 1 5w-30. It works great. Before that I had just about settled on FP10 as what I what I was going to use forever.