MrAcheson
Member
I have heard the bersa feeds everything well. However the feedramp on a bersa is fairly soft aluminum. Some types of hollowpoints may wear it faster than others.
Bersa Thunder .380?
- Thread starter k8ysv
- Start date
- Status
I have heard the bersa feeds everything well. However the feedramp on a bersa is fairly soft aluminum. Some types of hollowpoints may wear it faster than others.
"the feedramp on a bersa is fairly soft aluminum. Some types of hollowpoints may wear it faster than others."
I have polished the ramp on my Bersa Thunder twice due to scuffing and have also wondered if this is going to be a problem down the road?
As far as ProMag magazines, I have two of them and they work fine in both my nickel plated Thunder and my Thunder DLX.
I have polished the ramp on my Bersa Thunder twice due to scuffing and have also wondered if this is going to be a problem down the road?
As far as ProMag magazines, I have two of them and they work fine in both my nickel plated Thunder and my Thunder DLX.
horge
Member
What's the wear like, Jerry?
Mine is a very mild, hairline stripping of the nickel on the lower edge of the ramp. I tried taking a pic to post here, but the thin line of fresh aluminium doesn't distinguish too well from the nickel in photographs, especially since it's on the very edge.
Ironically, I got it using local LRN, rather than JHP: the LRN cases weren't properly crimped, with possibly some minor bullet setback, and so the case lip was sticking out a bit.
Hasn't been an issue at all since, since I have never had any sort of malf with factory ammo. It's a blessing that the ramp angle is so mild, with the topmost cartridge in the mag pointing almost right at the breech.
h
Mine is a very mild, hairline stripping of the nickel on the lower edge of the ramp. I tried taking a pic to post here, but the thin line of fresh aluminium doesn't distinguish too well from the nickel in photographs, especially since it's on the very edge.
Ironically, I got it using local LRN, rather than JHP: the LRN cases weren't properly crimped, with possibly some minor bullet setback, and so the case lip was sticking out a bit.
Hasn't been an issue at all since, since I have never had any sort of malf with factory ammo. It's a blessing that the ramp angle is so mild, with the topmost cartridge in the mag pointing almost right at the breech.
h
Horge: I'll try and take a picture of it later, but as you know my equipment is not to good. I shot 100 rounds through my Thunder DLX this morning and it may show up a little better since the ramp is blued. I'll take pictures of both and post them.
horge
Member
...and I thought my photos were bad...hehe.
Range Report!
So I took my new Bersa to the range last night to put some lead through it. I must say that I'm very happy with it. It's a relatively easy gun to shoot and to shoot well. Percieved recoil seems less than I remember with my ex's old PPK/S and it was very controllable.
This being my first time shooting this particular gun, I was able to get fairly small groups at 25 feet (which is all I was shooting at). I'd say they were maybe less than two and a half inches. Within four magazines (28 rounds) I had a nice ragged-edged one-holer. I didn't notice the accuracy dropping as the gun got dirtier. I put two boxes (100 Rounds) of Federal American Eagle 95 Grn FMJ through the gun last night.
Functioning of the gun from first round through last was smooth. I did, however experience one nagging issue. More often than not, I would get a FTF once per magazine. I did have a few mags that went through without a hitch but I'd say only 2 or three overall. I'd strip the mag and rack the slide and the round would fall out the magwell. Upon inspection of the misfed round, I found a slight nick in the nose of the bullet where it had apparently hit the ramp somewhere. The FTF rounds were able to be safely reused and fired perfectly when fed.
I presently only have one magazine (I'm shopping for more) and it's a Bersa factory mag with the finger extension on it. Most of the FTFs happened on the next-to-last or the last round in the mag. Two of them happened on the third round. I'm hoping that the mag will smooth out and improve after a "break-in" period but we'll see.
I've heard that Pro-Mag magazines work well but if anyone has any other recommendations, I'm all ears!
All in all, I'd say that I'm glad I let you all talk me into this gun. It's a welcome addition to my collection!
So I took my new Bersa to the range last night to put some lead through it. I must say that I'm very happy with it. It's a relatively easy gun to shoot and to shoot well. Percieved recoil seems less than I remember with my ex's old PPK/S and it was very controllable.
This being my first time shooting this particular gun, I was able to get fairly small groups at 25 feet (which is all I was shooting at). I'd say they were maybe less than two and a half inches. Within four magazines (28 rounds) I had a nice ragged-edged one-holer. I didn't notice the accuracy dropping as the gun got dirtier. I put two boxes (100 Rounds) of Federal American Eagle 95 Grn FMJ through the gun last night.
Functioning of the gun from first round through last was smooth. I did, however experience one nagging issue. More often than not, I would get a FTF once per magazine. I did have a few mags that went through without a hitch but I'd say only 2 or three overall. I'd strip the mag and rack the slide and the round would fall out the magwell. Upon inspection of the misfed round, I found a slight nick in the nose of the bullet where it had apparently hit the ramp somewhere. The FTF rounds were able to be safely reused and fired perfectly when fed.
I presently only have one magazine (I'm shopping for more) and it's a Bersa factory mag with the finger extension on it. Most of the FTFs happened on the next-to-last or the last round in the mag. Two of them happened on the third round. I'm hoping that the mag will smooth out and improve after a "break-in" period but we'll see.
I've heard that Pro-Mag magazines work well but if anyone has any other recommendations, I'm all ears!
All in all, I'd say that I'm glad I let you all talk me into this gun. It's a welcome addition to my collection!
horge
Member
k8ysv,
A failure to feed is serious business, particularly in a normally reliable piece like the Thunder 380, and needs looking into.
The magazine needs to be checked:
Depress the feeder platform (aka 'follower') with a stick, then lock it down by passing a small screwdriver (or a hard wire) through the witness holes above it, on either side of the magazine tube. Check the upper third of the tube's interior for roughness or protrusion, using a cotton bud to 'feel around'. If you find something, knock it off with rag or appropriate abrasive fabric around the end of another stick, and lightly lube.
You could also do a more thorough check, by disassembling the magazine first. (Read this, there's a portion pertinent to disassembly/reassembly of your mag, but Eye protection at all times!). Aside from the mag tube interior, the sides of the feeder platform should be checked for roughness/protrusions. Ditto the spring itself.
When unwanted friction delays the next cartridge from rising into proper position in time to be soundly kicked by the slide into the breech, you can wind up with a malf as you describe. The spring and the feeder platform have quite some wiggle room inside the tube, and so the points of contact between the feeder platform and the mag tube can vary from time to time. You thus get malfs sometimes, and sometimes you don't.
-------------
You said you racked the unfired cartridge out and it fell out the magwell.
The nick on the bullet may not have come from the feedramp. When racking out an unfired bullet, you need a lot of speed (and immediately) for the ejector to do its thing-- otherwise the bullet nose hangs up on the forward edge of the ejector port. An instinctive, follow-up semi-rack then drags the bullet back to the magwell so it can rattle/fall out.
I sometimes rack out an unfired cartridge in SLOW MOTION.
This pulls the cartridge back slowly, and then it falls out the magwell unharmed by improper contact with the ejection port lips. Of course, this is probably a bad habit to form --unsuitable to a defense situation.
Get a snap-cap/dummy (with a profile similar to your carry ammo) to practice racking an unfired cartridge out. It is easier to do this with the hammer down-- overcoming the resistance of the hammer is akin to spinning car wheels on brake before release --you get maximum slide velocity upon overcoming the hammer's resistance.
------------
Thanks for the report, and let us know if the magazine repents and redeems itself.
hth
A failure to feed is serious business, particularly in a normally reliable piece like the Thunder 380, and needs looking into.
The magazine needs to be checked:
Depress the feeder platform (aka 'follower') with a stick, then lock it down by passing a small screwdriver (or a hard wire) through the witness holes above it, on either side of the magazine tube. Check the upper third of the tube's interior for roughness or protrusion, using a cotton bud to 'feel around'. If you find something, knock it off with rag or appropriate abrasive fabric around the end of another stick, and lightly lube.
You could also do a more thorough check, by disassembling the magazine first. (Read this, there's a portion pertinent to disassembly/reassembly of your mag, but Eye protection at all times!). Aside from the mag tube interior, the sides of the feeder platform should be checked for roughness/protrusions. Ditto the spring itself.
When unwanted friction delays the next cartridge from rising into proper position in time to be soundly kicked by the slide into the breech, you can wind up with a malf as you describe. The spring and the feeder platform have quite some wiggle room inside the tube, and so the points of contact between the feeder platform and the mag tube can vary from time to time. You thus get malfs sometimes, and sometimes you don't.
-------------
You said you racked the unfired cartridge out and it fell out the magwell.
The nick on the bullet may not have come from the feedramp. When racking out an unfired bullet, you need a lot of speed (and immediately) for the ejector to do its thing-- otherwise the bullet nose hangs up on the forward edge of the ejector port. An instinctive, follow-up semi-rack then drags the bullet back to the magwell so it can rattle/fall out.
I sometimes rack out an unfired cartridge in SLOW MOTION.
This pulls the cartridge back slowly, and then it falls out the magwell unharmed by improper contact with the ejection port lips. Of course, this is probably a bad habit to form --unsuitable to a defense situation.
Get a snap-cap/dummy (with a profile similar to your carry ammo) to practice racking an unfired cartridge out. It is easier to do this with the hammer down-- overcoming the resistance of the hammer is akin to spinning car wheels on brake before release --you get maximum slide velocity upon overcoming the hammer's resistance.
------------
Thanks for the report, and let us know if the magazine repents and redeems itself.
hth
Thanks for the advice Horge! To clarify, when I racked the slide to eject the misfed cartrdges, they were not in correct position for the extractor to pull them out. They fell out of the magwell because they were not really in any position to exit from the ejection port. The cartridges were angled upward and upon inspection, it appears that the nick in the bullet nose came from the TOP edge of the chamber.
I inspected the magazine and loaded it with some leftover ammo. I then unloaded the mag as quickly as I could with my thumb (on the back edge of the round to simulate the slide action) with the purpose of finding a hangup in the feeding. Here's what I found: The inner surface of the feed lips was putting what I thought to be a little too much drag on the cartridges as they were being stripped from the mag. I disassembled the mag and checked for burrs as you suggested. None found and no strands left from a cotton ball. I lightly sanded the inner edge of the feed lips (carefully!) and then polished them with a Q-tip and some Flitz metal polish.
Reassembly of the mag shows that this has smoothed up the excess drag on the cartridges. They still hold firmly, but do not impede the forward motion of the cartridge.
Next I tried to figure out why the last round was misfeeding so often. When stripping the last round by hand, I noticed a very pronounced (for lack of a better term) dead spot on the follower which seemed to grab the cartridge. Apart came the mag again and out came the Dremel and the Flitz. The follower, which already seemes to be polished, was smoothed out some more. All sides were polished with the idea to smooth its travel within the mag tube.
Second reassembly of the mag shows the last round to feed MUCH more smoothly than before. The extra drag on the last round has been eliminated.
The final test will have to be a trip back to the range to see if the magazine benefitted at all from this buff 'n' polish job. I probably won't be able to until Tuesday, at which time I'll post the results.
In the meantime, I'm seeking advice on additional magazines. Are the factory ones worthwhile or are the pro-mags a better value?
Thanks!
I inspected the magazine and loaded it with some leftover ammo. I then unloaded the mag as quickly as I could with my thumb (on the back edge of the round to simulate the slide action) with the purpose of finding a hangup in the feeding. Here's what I found: The inner surface of the feed lips was putting what I thought to be a little too much drag on the cartridges as they were being stripped from the mag. I disassembled the mag and checked for burrs as you suggested. None found and no strands left from a cotton ball. I lightly sanded the inner edge of the feed lips (carefully!) and then polished them with a Q-tip and some Flitz metal polish.
Reassembly of the mag shows that this has smoothed up the excess drag on the cartridges. They still hold firmly, but do not impede the forward motion of the cartridge.
Next I tried to figure out why the last round was misfeeding so often. When stripping the last round by hand, I noticed a very pronounced (for lack of a better term) dead spot on the follower which seemed to grab the cartridge. Apart came the mag again and out came the Dremel and the Flitz. The follower, which already seemes to be polished, was smoothed out some more. All sides were polished with the idea to smooth its travel within the mag tube.
Second reassembly of the mag shows the last round to feed MUCH more smoothly than before. The extra drag on the last round has been eliminated.
The final test will have to be a trip back to the range to see if the magazine benefitted at all from this buff 'n' polish job. I probably won't be able to until Tuesday, at which time I'll post the results.
In the meantime, I'm seeking advice on additional magazines. Are the factory ones worthwhile or are the pro-mags a better value?
Thanks!
Sato Ord
Member
Hi all. I am new to the forum and found it because I was doing a search on the pistol I just bought and this forum came up.
I got my pistol nearly new. The guy who bought it put two mags through it and traded it back in because it didn't feed well. Well, the guy apparently field striped it and put the spring back in backwards; of course it didn't feed properly. However, I got the pistol for $226 out the door because it was "used".
Now I may be flogging a dead horse here, but I just joined and I have only read this one thread. As for reliability I bought the piece because I have seen it field tested by enough people to know it will hold up.
As to not having much punch, if you hit your mark, how much punch do you need. I am an old soldier and would prefer a 1911, but this will eventually be my wife's carry pistol and she is petite with small hands and not a whole lot of arm strength. When I pass it on to her I will get a Commander.
As for being less easily concealed than some smaller pistols, I don't see the problem. I carry in a left handed holster on my right hip; cavalry style. That's what long shirts are made for.
In response to the holster issue, and I may have missed someone else making this point, the trigger guard on this weapon is longer, and pointed than the PPK, so the holsters aren't interchangeable. However, a little work with a file and dremel should fix most of that problem. Also, Kydex is cheap and a paint stripper heat gun should allow you to make a nice custom holster in short order.
About deburring the gun, I'm going to do mine myself. I'm talented enough to do it, and if, on the off chance I do manage to mess it up, the gun is not too expensive to make experimentation cost prohibitive.
Hope these points add to the discussion and not just repeat what has already been said.
Oh, as to the comment about carrying the Bersa everywhere except bear country, I have to agree. I'm hoping to take my son, the eleven year old, to Alaska next summer to pan for gold. I'm planning to get a Super Redhawk Alaskan 454 snubby for that. I don't want to have to shoot a kodiak, but if the situation comes up I darn sure don't want to have to shoot it twice.
I got my pistol nearly new. The guy who bought it put two mags through it and traded it back in because it didn't feed well. Well, the guy apparently field striped it and put the spring back in backwards; of course it didn't feed properly. However, I got the pistol for $226 out the door because it was "used".
Now I may be flogging a dead horse here, but I just joined and I have only read this one thread. As for reliability I bought the piece because I have seen it field tested by enough people to know it will hold up.
As to not having much punch, if you hit your mark, how much punch do you need. I am an old soldier and would prefer a 1911, but this will eventually be my wife's carry pistol and she is petite with small hands and not a whole lot of arm strength. When I pass it on to her I will get a Commander.
As for being less easily concealed than some smaller pistols, I don't see the problem. I carry in a left handed holster on my right hip; cavalry style. That's what long shirts are made for.
In response to the holster issue, and I may have missed someone else making this point, the trigger guard on this weapon is longer, and pointed than the PPK, so the holsters aren't interchangeable. However, a little work with a file and dremel should fix most of that problem. Also, Kydex is cheap and a paint stripper heat gun should allow you to make a nice custom holster in short order.
About deburring the gun, I'm going to do mine myself. I'm talented enough to do it, and if, on the off chance I do manage to mess it up, the gun is not too expensive to make experimentation cost prohibitive.
Hope these points add to the discussion and not just repeat what has already been said.
Oh, as to the comment about carrying the Bersa everywhere except bear country, I have to agree. I'm hoping to take my son, the eleven year old, to Alaska next summer to pan for gold. I'm planning to get a Super Redhawk Alaskan 454 snubby for that. I don't want to have to shoot a kodiak, but if the situation comes up I darn sure don't want to have to shoot it twice.
XDKingslayer
member
I had a Bersa...until my wife claimed it.
DougW
Member
I carry my Bersa Thunder .380 every day. In fact, it has been sort of moved to my secondary concealed weapon after my Glock 26. But, on a recent trip, the G26 assumed room temperature, and the Bersa became the primary. It is a great carry piece here in Texas in the middle of the summer in an IWB holster with shorts, Hawaiian shirt, and sandles. I actually have 2, and have no intention of selling the 2nd, which was the wife's carry piece until she changed to a .38 revolver. The Thunder is a wonderful pistol.
Lobotomy Boy
Member
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2004
- Messages
- 2,449
I sold mine about a year ago. It was an extremely good, one of the most trouble free I've ever owned, but I replaced it with a Glock 36. The Glock is about the same size, weighs less, and packs quite a bit more punch, an important consideration since I've been spending more time in places frequented by mountain lions than when I bought my Bersa.
Of course, the Glock cost three times what I paid for the Bersa. I would have kept the Bersa, but in every application where I used the Bersa I now use the Glock. I hated to see it wasting away in my gun safe so I sent it to a new home where it would be appreciated.
Of course, the Glock cost three times what I paid for the Bersa. I would have kept the Bersa, but in every application where I used the Bersa I now use the Glock. I hated to see it wasting away in my gun safe so I sent it to a new home where it would be appreciated.
DWARREN123
Member
I had one, fine pistol, never a problem. Only reason I traded it was I went to one centerfire handgun caliber (40 S&W).
Ala Dan
Member in memoriam
Covered in many threads, as my ole' friend and moderator P95 Carry has
stated. I own one, its bigger than my KEL-TEC P3AT; but just as good a
gun~!
stated. I own one, its bigger than my KEL-TEC P3AT; but just as good a
gun~!
Hokkmike
Member
I'll just add that I have been very happy with mine. The other posters have done such a fine job!
edison
Member
Boy did this resurrect an old thread.
I have three (actually two Bersas and one FireStorm). Probably my second-most carried pistol (behind my P3AT). If you going to shoot the pistols, there's no comparison, the KT is just uncomfortable to shoot because of its light weight. The Bersa, on the otherhand, absorbs the 380 recoil nicely.
Observations:
The Bersa beavertail rubs across my thumb knuckle. If I shoot the Bersas regularly it's not a problem, but when I shoot them infrequently, I get the rub mark across the knuckle. I imagine it comes from the way I hold the pistol. I shoot 1911s and other pistols and don't get this mark from them.
Bersas will chamber a round if you slam the mag home. It's suppose to be a feature, but I found one of my Bersas does it a lot more readily than the other two. This totally freaked out my wife when it occurred at the range. I bought her the pistol for off-duty carry, but she was not comfortable with a pistol with its own mind.
The 380 round in the Bersa is snappier than I expected. It could be it's because of its blow back action. Still, I could shoot it all day and it's absolutely heavenly compared to the snap of the P3AT.
There are more and more accessories available for the Bersa 380 line, including fitted holsters from several makers. I no longer have to put them in throwaway Uncle Mikes. I'd carry my Bersa more, but the Wee Beastie (P3AT) is just easier to carry. I'm a 1911 guy so that's what I shoot at the range.
There's a forum devoted to the Bersa. Sorry I don't have the link, I'm not on my regular PC.
edison
I have three (actually two Bersas and one FireStorm). Probably my second-most carried pistol (behind my P3AT). If you going to shoot the pistols, there's no comparison, the KT is just uncomfortable to shoot because of its light weight. The Bersa, on the otherhand, absorbs the 380 recoil nicely.
Observations:
The Bersa beavertail rubs across my thumb knuckle. If I shoot the Bersas regularly it's not a problem, but when I shoot them infrequently, I get the rub mark across the knuckle. I imagine it comes from the way I hold the pistol. I shoot 1911s and other pistols and don't get this mark from them.
Bersas will chamber a round if you slam the mag home. It's suppose to be a feature, but I found one of my Bersas does it a lot more readily than the other two. This totally freaked out my wife when it occurred at the range. I bought her the pistol for off-duty carry, but she was not comfortable with a pistol with its own mind.
The 380 round in the Bersa is snappier than I expected. It could be it's because of its blow back action. Still, I could shoot it all day and it's absolutely heavenly compared to the snap of the P3AT.
There are more and more accessories available for the Bersa 380 line, including fitted holsters from several makers. I no longer have to put them in throwaway Uncle Mikes. I'd carry my Bersa more, but the Wee Beastie (P3AT) is just easier to carry. I'm a 1911 guy so that's what I shoot at the range.
There's a forum devoted to the Bersa. Sorry I don't have the link, I'm not on my regular PC.
edison
edison
Member
To Sato Ord:
In response to the holster issue, and I may have missed someone else making this point, the trigger guard on this weapon is longer, and pointed than the PPK, so the holsters aren't interchangeable. However, a little work with a file and dremel should fix most of that problem. Also, Kydex is cheap and a paint stripper heat gun should allow you to make a nice custom holster in short order.
1. You may not need to take that file to that fine pistol. There are holster makers producing models for the BT380 now. Both mainstream holster makers and small shops make suitable leather. Never looked for Kydex, so don't know about it.
2. The FireStorm version uses the older rounded triggerguard, but still the Bersa/FireStorm is thicker than the PPK, might as well get leather, or Kydex, that fits.
edison
In response to the holster issue, and I may have missed someone else making this point, the trigger guard on this weapon is longer, and pointed than the PPK, so the holsters aren't interchangeable. However, a little work with a file and dremel should fix most of that problem. Also, Kydex is cheap and a paint stripper heat gun should allow you to make a nice custom holster in short order.
1. You may not need to take that file to that fine pistol. There are holster makers producing models for the BT380 now. Both mainstream holster makers and small shops make suitable leather. Never looked for Kydex, so don't know about it.
2. The FireStorm version uses the older rounded triggerguard, but still the Bersa/FireStorm is thicker than the PPK, might as well get leather, or Kydex, that fits.
edison
whichfinger
Member
Sato Ord said:
Be aware the BERSA aluminum frame is anodized. A principal advantage of anodizing is a harder, more wear-resistant surface. If you decide to "deburr" or otherwise modify the frame, you will remove the anodizing from those areas. The exposed raw aluminum will be obvious, as well as softer. This, BTW, is a good reason not to polish the feed ramp. Remove the anodizing and the feed ramp will wear more rapidly.
The BERSA forum is here.
Be aware the BERSA aluminum frame is anodized. A principal advantage of anodizing is a harder, more wear-resistant surface. If you decide to "deburr" or otherwise modify the frame, you will remove the anodizing from those areas. The exposed raw aluminum will be obvious, as well as softer. This, BTW, is a good reason not to polish the feed ramp. Remove the anodizing and the feed ramp will wear more rapidly.
The BERSA forum is here.
Sato Ord
Member
Good points about deburring.
All I'm looking to do is round off the guard, which I know will void any warranty on the lower end of the gun. I may not tinker with it now that I've found out about the anodizing though. I'll have to think it through and talk more with my local gunsmith about it. I may decide that removing a little anodizing from the trigger guard is worth it to make it draw more easily. On the other hand, since it's eventually going to be my wifes gun and will end up in her pocket or the center console of the car, I may simply decide it isn't worth the hassle. Of course, she wanted another Taurus model 85 and I may end up buying her one of those before I get my new 1911, which brings me back to carrying the Bersa. Boy, I could sit here and argue with myself about this for the rest of the night: I guess that's what I get for having a French Canadian Grandfather.
I still want to make my own custom holster. That way I get exactly what I want. I plan on this little pup traveling with me and my wife, and when we are together I am the one who carries (she prefers not to carry if she can avoid it. {former pacifist}). If I make the custom holster myself I get exactly what I want and it is perfectly adjusted to my particular quirks.
All I'm looking to do is round off the guard, which I know will void any warranty on the lower end of the gun. I may not tinker with it now that I've found out about the anodizing though. I'll have to think it through and talk more with my local gunsmith about it. I may decide that removing a little anodizing from the trigger guard is worth it to make it draw more easily. On the other hand, since it's eventually going to be my wifes gun and will end up in her pocket or the center console of the car, I may simply decide it isn't worth the hassle. Of course, she wanted another Taurus model 85 and I may end up buying her one of those before I get my new 1911, which brings me back to carrying the Bersa. Boy, I could sit here and argue with myself about this for the rest of the night: I guess that's what I get for having a French Canadian Grandfather.
I still want to make my own custom holster. That way I get exactly what I want. I plan on this little pup traveling with me and my wife, and when we are together I am the one who carries (she prefers not to carry if she can avoid it. {former pacifist}). If I make the custom holster myself I get exactly what I want and it is perfectly adjusted to my particular quirks.
edison
Member
My IWB is a Don Hume 715 for my BT350. High Noon Holsters also produces a model just for the Bersa. Probably not a big stretch since it already produced a model for the PPK. But again, those are leather and Sato Ord is a Kydex fan.
If you are looking to make another purchase, Sato, you might consider the FireStorm 380. Same manufacturer, just comes with the older rounded style trigger guard. Oh, the sights are different. The FireStorm comes with a non-adjustable, white outline U at the rear. And to show you how compatible they are, my FireStorm upper is sitting on a Bersa frame. I don't mind the trigger guard extension, but I do like the white outline U sight picture for fast shooting.
Have fun molding, that way you'll get exactly what you want.
edison
If you are looking to make another purchase, Sato, you might consider the FireStorm 380. Same manufacturer, just comes with the older rounded style trigger guard. Oh, the sights are different. The FireStorm comes with a non-adjustable, white outline U at the rear. And to show you how compatible they are, my FireStorm upper is sitting on a Bersa frame. I don't mind the trigger guard extension, but I do like the white outline U sight picture for fast shooting.
Have fun molding, that way you'll get exactly what you want.
edison
MICHAEL T
Member
Well my personal Thunder is over a 1000 rounds and has never jamed.
Horge has the Chapter House
I invite you to come and join http://bersatalk.com over 2600 members and growing every day. We have a warrenty center gun smith in our tec section and the best Bersa holster maker as a member . Several times a year I pass out freebies to members . All around a fun place
Bersa custom leather at a reasonable price http://ubgholsters.com
Horge has the Chapter House
I invite you to come and join http://bersatalk.com over 2600 members and growing every day. We have a warrenty center gun smith in our tec section and the best Bersa holster maker as a member . Several times a year I pass out freebies to members . All around a fun place
Bersa custom leather at a reasonable price http://ubgholsters.com
schimpz
Member
my gun
I baught a bursa 380 about 1 month ago my best friend is a CHP from redwood city. we went shooting and i put 32 rounds through it. it jammed and the gun would not fire when you pulled the trigger... i took it to my local gun store and just got it back. if i had to do it over again would buy a glock 27
I baught a bursa 380 about 1 month ago my best friend is a CHP from redwood city. we went shooting and i put 32 rounds through it. it jammed and the gun would not fire when you pulled the trigger... i took it to my local gun store and just got it back. if i had to do it over again would buy a glock 27
- Status
