meanmrmustard
Member
Honestly, other than to collect, can't see the benefits of a bayo.
On an SKS, it's almost sacreligios for it to be sans bayo, IMO.
Best place to get a Mosin Nagant online
- Thread starter travisd
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On an SKS, it's almost sacreligios for it to be sans bayo, IMO.
fallout mike
Member
I agree, I like history so I like them. I don't go to the range sporting the bayos sticking out though. Would that be a c&r ninja?
meanmrmustard
Member
Yes, and rightly so. An sks with a bayo is like Flavor Flave with a clock for a necklace. You just come to expect it. It the way things oughta be.
Roadking Rider
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I think I'd call centerfire systems to find out what refinished means. Does it mean the wood has been refinished and we're reading it as refurbished. Mine is refurbished and the barrel is counter bored and recrownd as well as all numbers match. If it is a refub then that seeems like a very fair price.
velocette
Member
travisd;
If ya lived in south Florida, I'd offer you my 91/30 with the trigger spring rework, rear sight rework (to make it shoot to point of aim @ 100 yds) reloading die set, brass cased ammo and all extras, like bayonet, ammo pouches etc. Moving on to other projects.
Come January, you can come visit the gunshine state.
Roger
If ya lived in south Florida, I'd offer you my 91/30 with the trigger spring rework, rear sight rework (to make it shoot to point of aim @ 100 yds) reloading die set, brass cased ammo and all extras, like bayonet, ammo pouches etc. Moving on to other projects.
Come January, you can come visit the gunshine state.
Roger
ThePenguinKnight
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For the record, the Mosins from cabelas come with the standard lot of accesories. Can't recall if the sling was included, but I know my brother's had the bayonet, pouch, oil bottle, couple tools, and cleaning rod. Shoots decent, though I think I can coax some more from it if I tried. For $120, its not a bad price these days.
Our local cabelas had a ton of them thrown up on the rack while the sale was on, which made it far easier to pick through them. It was fascinating getting to check out the fit and finish difference between the pre war Tulas and the mid war Ishevsks. They had the bolts zip tied shut, so no checking the bore without permission, but all the ones I looked at were actually in very good shape.
I wish I could find one with a decent barrel and a broken up stock. My buddy has an extra stock, I'm a real cheap skate, and I only have 50 bucks for the Mosin fund
Our local cabelas had a ton of them thrown up on the rack while the sale was on, which made it far easier to pick through them. It was fascinating getting to check out the fit and finish difference between the pre war Tulas and the mid war Ishevsks. They had the bolts zip tied shut, so no checking the bore without permission, but all the ones I looked at were actually in very good shape.
I wish I could find one with a decent barrel and a broken up stock. My buddy has an extra stock, I'm a real cheap skate, and I only have 50 bucks for the Mosin fund
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travisd
Member
If they have accessories with them maybe I'll stop in sometime soon and seem if I can find a nice one. Had trigger locks so couldn't check the bores too easy. Some of them were pretty rough looking but might have a good one.
velocette if I was in Florida i'd sure take it. And what did ya do to get it to shoot POA?? I've heard of a taller front sight I believe but other than that I have no idea what to to. Would be nice to know for when I get one.
velocette if I was in Florida i'd sure take it. And what did ya do to get it to shoot POA?? I've heard of a taller front sight I believe but other than that I have no idea what to to. Would be nice to know for when I get one.
velocette
Member
Travisd;
To make them shoot to POA at 100 yds, first shoot them to see where they print. Usually about 4 ~ 10" high @ 100 yds. Mine was about 5".
I took the base of the rear sight where the actual sight rests when all the way down (the slide / rear sight all the way back toward the action) and filed the base to lower the rear sight in its lowest position. Not hard to do nor very critical dimensionally. When I had lowered the sight enough, I applied cold blue to make it look good. Corked the barrel and shimmed the trigger spring too. makes the rifle a lot nicer to shoot. Still not a target rifle but good for hunting or fighting accuracy out to 200 + yds.
Roger
To make them shoot to POA at 100 yds, first shoot them to see where they print. Usually about 4 ~ 10" high @ 100 yds. Mine was about 5".
I took the base of the rear sight where the actual sight rests when all the way down (the slide / rear sight all the way back toward the action) and filed the base to lower the rear sight in its lowest position. Not hard to do nor very critical dimensionally. When I had lowered the sight enough, I applied cold blue to make it look good. Corked the barrel and shimmed the trigger spring too. makes the rifle a lot nicer to shoot. Still not a target rifle but good for hunting or fighting accuracy out to 200 + yds.
Roger
travisd
Member
Well I just went ahead and picked one up form Cabelas today. None of the 9 or so they had were very impressive looking but mine had decent wood and metal and the only one with matching numbers. The bolt was about the nicest out of all of them and it did indeed come with all the accessories. Barrel looked pretty good was hard to see had a lot of cosmoline in it though.
By the time I got home it was pretty sticky with all the cosmoline melting off all over the place lol. Just going to break it down and stand it out in the sun tomorrow and wipe it down with a towel now and then unless there's an easier way to get it all off. Been near 100 all week. Cant wait to get it cleaned then be able to shoot it.
By the time I got home it was pretty sticky with all the cosmoline melting off all over the place lol. Just going to break it down and stand it out in the sun tomorrow and wipe it down with a towel now and then unless there's an easier way to get it all off. Been near 100 all week. Cant wait to get it cleaned then be able to shoot it.
fallout mike
Member
Odorless mineral spirits work great. Just try to not get it on the wood. Im going to clean the cosmoline off another one in about 5 minutes here as soon as I get off the can. Oops, maybe too much info.
travisd
Member
Basically any degreaser, brake cleaner, mineral spirits etc on the metal then some CLP on it all. Then some kind of heat on the stock to sweat it all out? Shouldn't be too hard sounds kind of fun lol.
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