Blackhawk 45ACP and crimping

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Randal45

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I am considering the purchase of the Ruger Blackhawk convertable 45LC/45ACP revolver. Most of my current reloading is for the XD45. I am using the Lee Factory Crimp for my 45ACP reloads. Since the Blackhawk does not use moonclips will I need to adjust my 45ACP crimping methodology for reloads to be used in the Blackhawk. I would hate to not be able to use all of my existing 45ACP reloads in the Blackhawk. I was hoping to not have to change anything in my current loading process.

How sensitive is the Blackhawk 45ACP with respect to amount of crimp? Does anyone have any experience with this?

Thanks!
 
I doubt you are crimping enough to stop rounds from headspacing correctly and firing in the Blackhawk. If you are, you are crimping too much for your autos too.

My 25-2 will fire .45 ACP without moon clips, but it's a pain to extract the cases. ;)

I have no experience with .45 ACP in Blackhawks.

A .45 ACP crimp should look about like these.
 
If you are buying the convertible, it comes with a 45ACP cyclinder along with the 45 Colt cyclinder, you do not need moon clips..just do a normal crimp for the 45 ACP
 
No need to change a thing. The mouth of the case is still what controls headspace in that cylinder. You can load rounds with the bullet seated out longer if you want to, but you still want the same crip.
 
If the bullets creep forward during recoil in the revolver, they will creep forward in the auto's magazine as well. (Given that both handguns are about the same weight). Do nothing different to your ammo.
 
Ruger Blackhawk convertable

The same crimp works in both. Brass that is trimmed to short or undersize can cause misfires. A 1911 type firearm has an inerita firing pin, it goes till it hits something/long travel. The Blackhawk firing pin has a set amount of protrusion and stops. You should have no problems what so ever. I have seen only one defect in a 357/9mm where the 9mm cylinder chamber was cut to deep/long. Ruger replaced the cylinder.:)
 
I never had a problem in my BH "200th Yr" Convertible using standard 45 loads & just enough roll crimp to straighten out the case. The cases could be lifted out with a fingernail unless I shot a lot of cast loads & the chambers got really dirty & even then they weren't really hard to get out. I switched to taper crimping 20+ yrs ago & have never had an issue of any sort since. I have never had problem in my S&W 1917, either, though I usually use full/half-moon clips with it. When using a roll crimper to straighten out a case that headspaces on the case mouth, you have to be judicious; I managed to roll over a couple just enough to let them slide into the chamber too far in the learning process with 9mm, and the lesson applied forward eliminated the operator errors... :eek:
 
operator errors...
I know all about those...:banghead:

Let me count the ways I have managed to screw something up. No wait, I can't count that high. :eek:
 
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