Bought my first bow, I'm a noob, and I have proof.

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So, did Hiowatha shoot carbon? Well, I guess so, in as much as cellulose is an organic compound.

Jeez, all I really wanna do is kill a deer from 25 yards. The aluminum seems to be working for that since I can hit a paper plate every time I do my part from 40 yards. It's only $3.89 a pop for them. $100 a dozen? SHEESH! That's $8.33 a pop by my calculator. OUCH! Not too many of those and I could buy myself a wood lathe and some dowel rod and make some of Hiowatha's carbon arrows. I don't plan on competing in anything, just killing a deer out of gun season.

Soon as I get good enough, I'm going to kill one with my stick bow. I don't have to take a differential equations course to do THAT, I hope. :rolleyes: Don't know about the OP, but me, I like to keep things simple...and affordable. :D
 
Like I said, its not that aluminum is wrong, if they work for you shoot them. The big advantage to Carbon is they can bend, and as soon as they do, they go right back to straight, aluminum's don't do that so well.

The other advantage is weight, Carbons, even the cheaper ones are way lighter than aluminum arrows. While speed is some times over rated, it does help with yardage guestamation. The flatter your trajectory the more forging it is to by off by a couple of yards. Being off by 5 yards is not such a big deal if you shoot fast enough.

But what ever you do, never shoot a wood or fiber glass arrow from your bow. The only exception is a bow fishing arrow. Traditional bows are quite different, but modern compound bows are quite a bit different.

Oh and Hiowatha did not have a modern compound bow to shoot.
 
Carmmond said:
Nope thats for 6 of them.

He has a 31" draw so if he is not using an overdraw thats going to be a long arrow:what: I like to keep my broadhead in front of my hand but with a 31" draw thats going to be hard to do.
Click to expand...

Could you explain this a bit more please? I shoot a 31" 340gr arrow with a whisker biscuit.
 
You must have a huge wingspan. My DL is 29" and my arrows are either 26.75" or 27".
MC I wouldn't be worried about aluminum vs carbon. Aluminum have been killing for years just fine. Ballistic reasons I shoot carbon but wouldn't hesitate to shoot aluminum under 30yards. At 40 yards, carbons fly faster, flatter and group better for me anyways.
I just picked up a dozen Easton Carbon Raiders at Dicks for $45. That is cheaper than the aluminum and I believe they are re-badged Beman ICSs.
 
"Could you explain this a bit more please? I shoot a 31" 340gr arrow with a whisker biscuit."

Don't worry your arrows are fine I was just stating that you would need an arrow around 31" unless you were using an overdraw rest. Back around ten years ago a lot of bow companies used overdraw rests so they could claim higher fps out of the bows (shorter lighter arrow) but me and a bunch of other shooters never did like the fact that the broad head was behind your hand at full draw.

All said and done shoot what you’re comfortable with, confidence in your gear will show in the field. I know a lot of hunters that like heavier aluminum arrows because it will quiet the bow down quite a bit. I shoot carbons because of the flatter trajectory but yes with the lighter arrow the bow will make more noise.
 
Well, my feeder is 25 yards from my stand on the dot. Actually, I have two feeder set ups on my place, both 25 yards. I can't see a whole lot farther to shoot. Could conceivably get a 40 yard shot, max. I set up my target at one of the feeders shooting out of my tree stand to check POI. I was hitting the center every shot. So, I figure I'm good to go. :D I guess time will tell, eh? I also figure the aluminum being heavier will penetrate well. That'd be more important if I get a shot at a hog. I know the lighter the arrow, the flatter it'll shoot, but I'm not ready to shoot much further than 25 on a deer, 35 maybe. I'm 100 percent confident at that range.

What I'll do when I hunt is sit in my stand and lase this tree or that, read the yardage, so I'll know what range a deer is when he steps out. No, Hiowatha didn't have a laser range finder, either. :D
 
if all your doing is 25 yards then I doubt you will have an issue with yardage guessing. And of course your are absolutely right the heavier the arrow the better for critters such as hogs.

Like I said their not wrong, their just different. If I was sitting and waiting on a hog I would shoot as heavy an arrow as I could with as heavy a broad head as I could. I know they are not bullet proof, or arrow proof, but at 25 yards you only have benefits and no negatives as far as I can see.
 
Well, I also have another problem with a weak right eye. I can't see that well and I ain't going to try to shoot a left handed bow. I do that with rifles and shotguns, but bow shooting takes more coordination and strong arm strength. That's another reason I must limit my range, though. I simply get too many misses at 45 yards, even though I'm shooting at the known range, just from not having 20-20 vision in that eye. At best, it's 20-70 corrected, always has been, that way from birth. If I can stab a deer with a bow, hey, it'll be a real accomplishment, but the heavily wooded terrain works in my favor here to keep range acceptable. :D

Uh, for small game, I'll stick with my rifles, pistols, and shotguns. :D
 
Another piece of advice I herd a while back from a guy who's dad could literally get "buck fever" and mess up any shot no matter how easy, was to get flagging the same color as your pins and mark your yardages on trees and what not with that.

For example, if your 20 yard pin is red, tie some red flagging to various objects that are about 20 yards out from your stand.

And the same thing for your 30 and 40 yard pins. Granted this does not work very well if you are spotting and stalking, but for most of you white tail hunters who site in a tree stand or other type of blind, I think it would work out quite well.

The main thing to remember is that you can't shoot often enough, no matter how long you have been shooting, and to always shoot your broad heads before hunting season to make sure they are going where you think they are.

Always wax your string, depending on how often you shoot. If you are shooting daily, you should clean and wax it 2-3 times a week depending on how many arrows you are sending down range.
 
That's a good idea grubbylabs.

When you wax your string, do you do the whole thing or just the rear string? Bowstring or cables as well?
 
I wax every thing, it all moves and twists and creates heat.

I use a piece of floss or serving looped around the string once and work it back and forth up and down the string to clean the old wax off, Then I use either my clean finger or much preferably a clean peace of leather to rub the wax in. Rub it till its hot, that way it melts into the string.
 
On your Game Over the cables are string so you would do both the cables and the string. Back in the day cables were cable and you did not have to wax them because... well they were cable:D
 
rduchateau2954 it's kind of hard to see at that angle..... have them stand to the left and right of you and take pictures of the front of your body and back of your body from a 90 degree angle. We will be able to see a lot more then. Have you mesured your Arm-span from the link I had posted?
http://www.huntersfriend.com/bow_sizing_adjustment_guide.html

It looks like your draw is to long to me from what you posted your arm is way to straight with no bend at all thats why your smacking your arm. If you would shorten up your draw your arm would have a slight bend facing away from the string.

Humor me and just mesure your Arm-span and let us know what it is but if your at 31" now it looks like you should be around a 30-29" draw.
 
+1 To what carmmond said.

Plus get a wrist sling. If you are thinking about grabbing the bow or holding it so you won't drop it while your shooting, it is going to mess you up every time.
 
Also looks like you are bending your neck down to the peep. Go get fitted right at a local shop. I think you'll find your DL is too long and or peep is in the wrong spot. Your head should be as vertical as possible.
 
This is a great thread. I also decided to return to archery after 55 years away from the sport. I went to a local very Archery specific store and they took all my needs and put them into a complete bundle. All for about the price of a SIG 226. I was amazed that it took over one hour for them to do all the measurements, paper tune, and add the accessories. I started with a very low draw wt. as I was very nervous due to rotator cuff repairs to both shoulders a couple of years age. First shot, my forearm looks exactly like yours, everyone laughed and now I am baptized.
I now know everything about the Matthews Bow Company.
Lots of fun with my grandson and I get the benefit if walking downrange and returning with my previously fired ammo.
BTW. My local Dick's Sporting Goods is running a 50% off the second purchase on Easton arrows. I just yesterday picked up a couple of dozen carbon practice arrows for $44.00/dz. + tips.
 
I've also been recently initiated into the THR bow slap fraternity. My 2 girls took up archery in school and it piqued my interest. Never had any previous experience. Went to my local archery shop, tested out a Bowtech Carbon Knight and took it home. Never used a sling release thing until now.

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Glad I found this thread. I didn't have a sight installed yet. Figured I would try instinctive shooting first, although that was not recommended by the archery store staff.
 
Nothing on you guys but what the heck is up with your shops...... tarosean posted a good link but the guys in the shop should have half a clue..
 
I agree if you did not get your bow at a pro shop then you need to get to one and get your set up figured out. If you did buy from a pro shop and they let you leave with a bow that foes not fit, you need to find another shop. If they gave you advice and you ignored it, then you deserve the arm slap.

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2
 
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