Brass versus Nickel cases?

[mattw]

Anyone know the pros and cons of using the silver-looking (I guess they're made of nickel) casings that are used for high-dollar self defense and hunting ammo from winchester or federal? Is it any better or worse than using brass? The brass seems to be more maleable which makes it easier to resize and seat the bullet.

 

[rcmodel]

It's an all brass case underneath the shiny stuff.

The thin nickel plating is just to prevent corrosion, sell more ammo, etc.

It all reloads the same.

rcmodel

 

[jgo296]

why doesnt winchester mate it with their silver tip ammo?

 

[GarandOwner]

do a search, this topic has been covered numerous times

 

[.cheese.]

they're nickel plated, but brass underneath.

I read in one of the magazines that oddly enough, the nickel cases seem to rupture more quickly than standard brass cases when reloaded a few times.

I have no idea why this would be the case since they're still brass underneath.

 

[Drail]

I was told by someone in the industry that nickel plated brass is designed to withstand higher pressures for one firing and allows easy extraction. After which you have a once fired case with nickel starting to flake off, especially if fired in a slightly oversize chamber. I know lots of people that use it and love it. I'll stick with plain brass.

 

[rcmodel]

.38 Special wadcutter Match ammo was loaded in nickel cases 40 years ago by Winchester.
Why? No idea, other then Remington Match ammo wasn't.

I have reloaded about half a gazillion of them.

And cop ammo in 158 lead round nose.
That was done to prevent verdigris growth when the ammo was carried forever in old-school gun-belt shell loops & drop-pouches.

In both cases, high pressure was not even a consideration.

I much prefer it in .38/.357, .44 Special/.44 Mag, and .45 Colt when ammo is carried in a leather gun-belt.

rcmodel

 

[Jacka L Ope]

From RCBS reloading die product instructions and FWIW:

IMPORTANT: We find that most scratching of the interior of a die is caused by nickel cases or grit on the brass surface. If you are using nickel pistol cases, we recommend that you use a carbide sizer die. This die is hard enough to resist the scratching that nickel cases cause. The best method for cleaning grit from brass cases is to tumble them. Tumbling the cases will clean the surface and prevent scratching the internal die surface. Your cases should be cleaned periodically to protect both your dies and the chamber of your firearms.

Don't know about you folks but I've been using carbide dies since starting the reloading hobby so this has never really been a concern.

 

[ForneyRider]

Come, on. Nickel looks nice too. Hornady TAP have black nickel.

Aside:
Does anyone still make non-carbide dies besides Lee?

If so, why?

 

[Halo]

One other benefit of nickel cases is that they're a lot easier to find in the grass and dirt.

 

[evan price]

The nickle cases, if left lie on the damp ground, still clean up and shine whereas a brass case left on damp ground will turn chocolate quickly.

I personally use totally mixed revolver cases nickle/brass- don't care.

For semiautos I segregate the nickle cases and save them for +P loads or development casings. They do shine nice and make it easy to find them in the grass.

 

[ftierson]

Originally posted by ForneyRider
Aside:
Does anyone still make non-carbide dies besides Lee?

If so, why?

Perhaps I'm being overly sensitive here, but some might take this as a somewhat back-handed swipe at Lee...

Actually, pretty much all die manufacturers still make steel pistol sizing dies.

In the 'old days,' carbide dies were much more expensive than steel dies.

It was actually Lee who pioneered the development of inexpensive carbide sizing dies and drove the price of carbide dies down across the board (just like Lee drove the price of all dies down by offering them cheaper than anyone else).

Today, the sale of inexpensive carbide sizing dies for straight-walled (more of less) pistol cartridge cases far outstrips the sale of plain steel sizing dies.

Personally, I prefer the Lee carbide dies over most of the others, especially since Lee also was one of the first manufacturers who produced a carbide insert that didn't leave an unsightly ring on the case after sizing...

Anyone reloading today can thank Lee for the current inexpensiveness of reloading dies...

Forrest

 

[The Tourist]

I spin all brass in my hand before it goes up into the sizing die, and I also check the rim after belling.

I've heard the "splitting" and "stuck case" theories before, but I have not found any issues to make me change my procedures. I also champfer case mouths, even the nickel ones. I have not seen anything peel or chip more than anything else.

Use it. Enjoy it. When it fails to meet your standards, discard it.

 

[The Bushmaster]

All those people that "pooh-pooh" nickel plated brass. Please e-mail (PM) me...I will gladly take it off yer hands and dispose of it properly and save you the worry and problems that go with reloading nickel plated brass. I really love all the wive's tales that go with this brass and realize the amount of anti-acid one must take when deciding to reload nickel plated brass. Please contact me and I will relieve you of this ponderous concern...

 

[ftierson]

I probably should mention that I use both nickeled and brass cartridge cases pretty much interchangeably...

But I prefer plain brass...

Occasionally, you can run into problems with the nickel plating peeling off the underlaying brass cartridge case. For example, I once purchased several hundred factory new Remington .357 Mag. cases that, when loaded with even a light crimp, had the nickel peel away. Of course, Remington replaced the cases...

However, there's no peeling with solid brass...

Forrest

 

[Hoosier Reloader]

Nickel coated brass vs uncoated brass will help control brass oxidation. Plating can/will get brittle and flake off in dies especially if reloading. Carbide dies will help until the die ultimately pushes the nickel plating ahead while sizing. You should always check your cases before and after sizing for defects.

 

[DWARREN123]

The nickle plated brass is slippier than brass, easier cleaning but the plating process usually makes it a little more brittle so it may not last as long.

 

[FW]

If the nickel plated brass is tumbled enough (like when being reloaded many times), the nickel plating will eventually come off, not all at once, but there will be thinned out areas where the brass will show through first.

 

[The Bushmaster]

Refer to post #14...I haven't seen any "flaking" of the nickel on any of my plated brass. You must be refering to the very old plated brass.

FW is probably closer to the truth as far as the nickel plating coming off...It will, eventually, wear off...

 

[243winxb]

Always use brass, except in a carry handgun as its more easy to keep clean.

 

[evan price]

I've had some old, abused, beat up nickle cases that start to loose little bits of nickle at the case mouth. Never been a problem for me though.

 

[ReloaderFred]

I just load them all and when they wear out, I recycle them. I don't worry about whether they're nickel or brass. As long as they're not steel or aluminum, then I'm happy.

Hope this helps.

Fred

 

[strat81]

I have some 9mm nickel cases that are on their 4th and 5th reload. No flaking. Mostly WIN, FC, and Speer headstamps.