• You are using the old High Contrast theme. We have installed a new dark theme for you, called UI.X. This will work better with the new upgrade of our software. You can select it at the bottom of any page.

" Breaking Her In "

Status
Not open for further replies.

suprane

Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2014
Messages
121
Location
Texas
Well might as well go all the way on advice. Settled in on a M77 Ruger Compact in 7mm-08. She hasn't arrived yet but this is what I intend to do on breaking "her" in : My gunsmith buddy and I are going to first bore-scope the barrel and check the lands and grooves and such. If it looks sharp and clean, no obvious burrs, then just initial cleaning with solvent and patching her dry, may use a couple passes with bronze brush, and then some light oil. Go to range, fire 5 and clean and do this with one box cheap ammo and call it done. If there are burrs, then just a bit more bronze brush passes and maybe extra two sets of 5 and clean and then bore-scope her again. What you all think. Have read quite a few threads on breaking in a barrel and I believe I lean towards the minimal side, but always worry I am wrong. Thanks. :what:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I think barrel break-in is a myth for the most part IMHO. All I do is run a cleaning patch through it, then run a dry patch and shoot around 5 rounds of good ammo. I clean it once or twice quickly after 10 rounds + or - and then start shooting for accuracy. I wouldn't use the cheap ammo or a bronze brush. The brush is needed when it's fouled.
I will add that I haven't owned a gun that shoots to it's potential until it's had a few round down the tube.
 
Barrel break in is bull butter. Shoot 5 to clean up the barrel, zeroing along the way to get close then your next 3 should get the rifle zeroed.
 
I think it's far more important to clean the barrel well before first shooting than it is to follow a "break in" procedure.

I once tested the theory myself.
A friend and I each bought identical .223 Rem rifles made by Stevens. both rifles were cleaned, sandbagged and fired once at fifty yards.
Scopes then roughly dialed in to center on that bullet hole and we moved to 100 yards.

We did two things. First we fired for group size, not compensating "kentucky windage" for bullseyes. Second, we logged group size and changed targets every ten rounds.

I just shot mine, no cleaning since i took it out of the box. He cleaned his after one round, then two rounds, then three rounds, etc. After over 200 rounds each (and a full day of shooting and hob-nobing) neither rifle had changed more than 1/4 inch in group size.

Both shot between 1 1/4" and 2" at 100 yards. Considering this was a handload developed for a different rifle, I consider it very good. I later worked up a load for mine and it turned out to be a sub-MOA rifle with a load it liked.

Clean your rifle well before you fire it. Don't abuse it. Clean it after you fire it. I think that's the real key, not break in procedures.
 
I bought a new Savage rifle years back and the manual said there was no need for barrel break-in. Just clean the factory oil out and shoot it. It went on to say that many customers insist on breaking a barrel in, and referred them to Savage's website for a procedure. Sort of like "If you really feel that you must . . . " But it was clear that Savage felt it was unproductive. The recommended procedure was something like: 3 rounds, then clean; 5 rounds, then clean; etc.

A few years later I bought a new CZ 527, and saw nothing about break-in in the manual. So I called them, and they said it's not necessary; just clean it and shoot it. So that's what I do now.

P51D
 
1911 guy - Do both barrels collect fouling at the same rate now?

I don't believe break-in is for accuracy, but for copper fouling prevention.
 
P51D

Savage has changed its tune. I just purchased a NIB Model 12. There is a link to break in procedures recommended in the FAQ's. It is a real pain in the rear, but I will be doing it on Friday in the cold and wind.
 
I've had several rifles that I have done absolutely ZERO break-in on and it seems that they shoot very well with loads that they like, I can't really comment on barrel fouling because I clean after every range trip or hunting trip. These rifle barrels aren't exactly high quality they are mass produced barrels (savage, mossberg, ar-15 barrels, etc.) but with loads they like I don't really see a difference.

I do have what I consider a high quality factory barrel in a Tikka T3 Lite. I was concerned about barrel break in and I couldn't find anything definititve so I called Beretta and their Tech told me to "shoot it and keep the barrel from getting too hot." It shoots MOA with any ammo I've tried and shoots 1/2 MOA with handloads.

I have 2 custom barrels from very high quality barrel makers and I followed a very simple break in.
Shot once/clean once for 5 shots
Shot three/ clean once
Shot 5/ clean once

Did it make a difference I have no idea but I will say that when patching the high quality barrels they are much easier and quicker to clean than my factory barrels. That could just be mfg. procedures and ALL 7 of my rifles shoot MOA or better.
 
Before I comment again must say " Robert, if you found my opening light hearted sentence off color or offensive, you gotta lighten my man. Jeeze. "
Now on to the advice. This was what I was expecting. Most going with just initial cleaning and then shooting and reasonable cleaning between x amount of bullet/powder down the barrel. Sounds like one fellow is still going to go through a break in procedure. Very interesting on the two Stevens rifles. It will be interesting to see the bore from the factory through the bore scope and then afterwards. So still leaning towards minimalistic "break"-in. Then on with a long hunting life. I do believe in not over heating the barrel and mine being a slender 16.5" will heat up fast. So will go slow with her. ( now don't delete that sentence Robert, LOL Just pulling your chain, I know you've got a rep to uphold ) Well thanks everyone and Merry Christmas. (I will post results of her accuracy and function down the road if anyone might be interested.)
 
I would think by the time you have it sighted in it will be broken in most guns I have bought had no mention of break in in the manual as I recall . shoot 5,clean repeat till the first box of 20 is gone . Have fun good luck
 
I like Brasso on a plastic bristle brush to shine up the barrel and then shoot. Clean the barrel well after the first session. Use the Brasso again to see if any copper comes out. If the patch is just dirty and not blue you are good to go. Just the way I do it. kwg
 
I shoot a 5-shot group out of a new barrel...if I get the desired accuracy, I don't get OCD about break-in. If not, I'll bore-scope it to see what the problem might be. I've heard of guys trashing new match barrels during a 200-round break-in that they didn't need.

YMMV, but it probably shouldn't.

Merry Christmas to all,

Harry
 
I think that it is very simple - any barrel has a lift span - first 5% of it's shooting life smooths the steel - the next 90% is what it can do - the last 5% and onward is deterioration. The %s are a guess, but you get the gist - it is like any other machine. Also, my experience is that keeping a barrel clean helps longevity - that is my gut and not science.
 
I once voiced similar opinions, and was gently schooled on the fine points on one such occasion. I'll try to do the same here.

The goal of break in is to allow the fired shots to finish cleaning out the bore and chamber of a new barrel. Copper fouling from earlier shots needs to be removed to allow this cleanup to continue. The cleanup desired from break in is removal of the last of the machining marks that can't be removed any other way. Machining marks are the tangential grooves in the bore and chamber resulting from rotary processes used in their manufacture. Hand lapping the bore already cleaned the lands of concentric groves and left a scratch pattern aligned with the rifling. The throat of the chamber, however, is pretty much as the finish reamer left it. Its surface acts more or less as a file on the bullet as it leaves the cartridge. Each time a round is fired, tiny bits of copper jacket are scraped from the bullet, vaporized in the plasma ball of the ignited powder charge, and deposited as copper fouling on the bore.

The throat breaks in rather quickly, often in the first dozen or so shots. The fouling is worst in the earliest few shots, hence the descending cleaning schedule of break in. In the meantime, the tedious cleaning helps preserve the condition of the bore while this final cleanup takes place. The bore, after all, contributes most to accuracy, and is, for some, a significant investment of dollars and months of lead time.

But, what do I know about all that? I'm like most here, and get my jollies ringing the bell on the center cutout of 10" plates, fast and often.
 
Last edited:
You can do it if it'll make you feel better.
The placebo effect.
Skip the break in and just shoot it. Get familiar with the trigger, stock and recoil.
When you get home, clean and lube it.
And have fun!
 
I just push a swab down the bore to keep it clean until the round count polishes the barrel. I'll clean gently after each range session.

I don't brush unless I have to. I might use the brasso eventually, but might not.

The constant brushing nonsense is just around to wear out the throat of the barrel and to sell barrels. Use a bore guide if you can.
 
So the firearm company (whichever applies) was smart enough to design, engineer, and manufacture the product, but stupid enough to put its customers through the rigors of a break in procedure that's based on a myth, assumption, or "hunch" with little or no credibility?? Ha! Like many others, I've often wondered how much a break in procedure helps, but I've never considered it something that can hurt. So if the manual recommends it, I just do it, kinda.
 
Great rifle and caliber. As for break in you described, there are far worse ways you could spend a day. I don't think it will help. I don't think it will hurt it either. Does Ruger have any advice in the owners manual or from their customer service line for break in? Do it the way you want. Mostly, spending lots of time just shooting the rifle and understanding how it performs in different conditions and distances is the most important thing. I found taking an Appleseed class with a 22 plinking rifle and bulk ammo was a good way to hone my rifle skills. $100 for the class and somewhere between $20 and $60 for the 22 ammo is a great bargin for what you will get out of the class.
 
The constant brushing nonsense is just around to wear out the throat of the barrel and to sell barrels.

Not to pick on you, ZD, but do you really believe that? That any amount of brushing can even come close to the bore wear from shooting just one shot?

At its absurd extreme, that makes it reasonable to substitute a few carefully restrained passes with the OralB powered brush for the recommended barrel break in. You would think Kreiger, et al would just do that for us.
 
Well it seems most go for simple procedures from just cleaning and firing and some cleaning. What I always did when younger and hadn't read articles on "break in" procedures. Recently read Mr. McMillian's article on his barrels and his thoughts. He will void warranty if bore paste, nylon brushing or stainless steel brushing are used to break in or clean his barrels. He is okay with copper brushes but sparingly. So will just go with what I planned, not the simplest but no where near some of the elaborate ways I have seen described. I will be interested in the bore-scoping before and after a firing in of 20 rounds and some in between cleanings. I will be using the cheapest ammo I could find Hornady Whitetail 139gr interlocks 2840fps. This discussion has been very interesting. Nice site to belong. Happy New Years to all.
 
Last edited:
Suprane, Your plan is thoughtful and cheap so why not do it so you can feel that you have done all you can to assure initial accuracy and barrel preservation. I've done everything from lots of barrel break-in to none and have come to the conclusion that every rifle is different in terms of accuracy and life. Barrel break-in, advisable or not, is easy and cheap; so why not?
 
Years ago I brought a new Ruger M-77 stainless steel all weather rifle in .270 that I broke the barrel in.

The first step was cleaning the barrel.

I then firelapped the barrel with 20 rounds.

For those not familiar with firelapping the barrel the process is simple but a bit messy. I brought some soft unlubed soft lead bullets. I then smeared some Clove brand 320 grit silicon carbide grease mix into the bullet grooves and seated the bullets into a case with a light charge of smokeless powder (I think I used Unique). I used only enough charge to get the bullet to exit the barrel. I verified each bullet exited the barrel by shooting into a dirt bank.

I thoroughly cleaned the barrel and then started shooting jacketed bullets through it. For the first three rounds I shot one round, then cleaned the barrel repeated for a total of three rounds. I then shot three rounds at a time and cleaned the barrel after shooting the three rounds. I believe I did this for a total of nine rounds. Then I stepped up to firing five rounds, then cleaning the barrel for a total of 15 rounds.

It was time consuming all-day project but the weather was really nice.

Where the results worth it? Since I didn’t test fire the rifle I firelapped and the jacket round cleaning process I don’t know.

I’ll let you be the judge about three shot ½” groups at 100 yards from a production rifle with a Weaver 6x fixed power scope.

I can honestly state that it did not hurt the barrel.
 
Sniper66, you hit it on the head IMO. My way as good as any. And BSA1 that's another way. I suppose you could never really check whether it helps or hurts, for as Sniper66 says no two barrels are exactly alike. The gentlemen who took the two Stevens certainly were close to comparing methods. Just a lot of thoughts and opinions out there. I almost drove my mind nuts thinking about all the complicated processes describe. I am confident for a hunting rifle and a good company like Ruger, just a simple 20 round break in will be just fine. But am going to bore-scope first and last and just see if anything is worth mentioning. To each his own and happy shooting to all.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top