Actually, I bought the (used) Howell conversion cylinder off a private individual while Goon had the gun, and had the seller ship it direct to Goon's Gun Works. Since I knew the C&B cylinder on my Walker was already too short (I had to remove material from the barrel/frame lug to get rid of the monstrous chasm of a barrel gap) I knew the cylinder would likely not be a drop-in anyway. Mike made adjustments to the ratchet teeth so this would be a drop-in fit, otherwise I doubt if it would have even worked. I don't believe Howell's (or Taylor's, for that matter) makes a "drop-in" conversion for the ASM Walkers...only Ubertis of recent manufacture...so it worked out very well, timing-wise.
As far as price goes, they are not bad. I bought one from Taylor's for my Remington 'Sheriff' model and it was drop-in perfect right out of the box. This includes all Pietta 1858's post-2002 manufacture that are CAM/CAD designed. My Taylor's does NOT fit either of my older (mid-90's) Pietta Remmies and wouldn't without modification, so if you are thinking of converting a Remington, make sure it's a newer one.
But back to the Walker...you can obtain one for the Uberti Walkers from either Taylor's or Howell Old West (see links below) for under 300 dollars.
https://www.howellarms.com/1847-walker
https://taylorsfirearms.com/accessories/conversion-cylinders/walker.html
If you have or are are considering purchasing an older ASM Walker, be advised that any of these cylinders will require fitting by a competent gunsmith.
All replacement action parts are over-sized and must be fitted . . . how much bigger do you need? Hint: a larger diameter cam will give you the same thing to a point.
Mike
Hello Captain,
A little clarification if you don't mind regrding your post below. I'm still trying to decide which conversion cylinder to buy... and whether or not I should buy one at all until there's more commercially made ammo available.
But here's my question; you mention below that your Taylors cylinder,' does NOT fit either of my older (mid-90's) Pietta Remmies and wouldn't without modification, so if you are thinking of converting a Remington, make sure it's a newer one '
In your opinion would that apply to 90's made Uberti Remys? Do you think 90's made Remy's require fitting to run the Taylor's conversion cylinder ? Mine was made in 1993.
The cam I believe has to be precisely drilled out. I figure that filing down a longer arm would be a much simpler project. A quote from another post I made.
"The 1858 I know of has the latch dropping about 2/3 the distance from notch to notch leaving a slight drag line in leading to the notch. I do not know of any replica muzzle loader that has perfect cylinder latch lockup out of the box. All of them drop that locking latch somewhere before the locking notch on the cylinder. Some closer some further. This seems to be the norm for the replicas.
Now some correction was done because not even a brand new locking latch had the arms long enough for proper timing so some high tech expert work with a coarse bastard file and mini files were needed after some finesse work done by bashing and pounding the arms with a 2 lb hammer causing massive deformation but hey the arms were longer after that. After finessing and working on the wrong arm with coarse files and wondering if all was lost it was discovered that the other arm just needed some shaping and angling in the right places. After shaping the mashed pancake to scratched up perfection with some file marks (stress risers ??? I guess I will find out over time) Timing became perfect so it's replacement fluted cylinder should have no problems with obvious drag."
Now this turned out great. The locking latch sort of gently drops right into the locking notch at the same time that the trigger locks and the locking latch resets a tiny bit after so tiny that for all intents and purposes all three happen at the same time. I think a hammer stop would be nice though to keep the hand (pawl) from being ragged on but thats another subject. Despite the rough work the action is pretty smooth (locking latch arm was thinned out tthe hammer channel and hammer were smoothed out also) but only time will tell if the locking latch arm will keep going and going.
A replacement locking latch with longer arms or even oversized in general would be a nice part to have around.
Well, knowing what you are looking for is always a good thing when you are on a mission to correct something a simple as timing a S.A. revolver!! Lol !!!!
The bolt head should drop right at the width of the bolt IN FRONT OF (at minimum) the notch!!! In other words, it should be ON the cyl BEFORE it reaches the notch!! Why in the world do folks think a bolt is supposed to drop perfectly into the notch for lockup?!!! (That is what I gather from your post). Do you think that would be possible at say . . . . fanning speed? Ummmmmm no. Sorry to bust your bubble but a slight mark on the cyl is SUPPOSED to be there....
Perfect timing is definable. You have to know what that is before you try to achieve it.
Mike
Now I don't really do the whole gunsmithing thing for money...but I've done it for a few local friends and I have slicked my Pietta Colts pretty dang well. After lots of practice on my guns and plenty of help from Mike from Goons Guns, I'm pretty confident on working on other peoples guns, especially with all my downtime. I put a whole new wire trigger and wire bolt set up similar to Mike's, although I have my own take on it, thin the bolt leg and cam, put in a cap post and a fouling/cap shield that keeps cap fragments and fouling from entering the guns internals via the hammer slot. I don't have pics for the internals, but I have pics of the cap post and fouling blocker...it's similar to what Mike from Goons Gunworks does... funny thing is, it was the first customization I ever did to my guns back in 2002 or so when I first messed with cap guns and hated caps falling into the hammer slot... so I built this little shield that's built into the hammer... come to find out years later it's actually an idea used today by Mike at Goons. I guess great minds really do think alike. So if anyone has a Colt they'd like slicked up for the cost of shipping, I'd be happy to do it... won't take me a few days, but I'd say give me a week or so to finish it. All I ask is that you give honest feedback on this forum and show people the work. I'll even give a picture of me with my drivers license etc just in case you feel you can't trust me and need to turn me in to the cops or something. I've worked quite a few Piettas, never worked an Uberti Colt, but I'm sure it will be just as easy. Here's a pic of my cap post and my hard/stiff aluminum shielding that keeps the fouling and caps out of the hammer slot... I also use sheet brass too.View attachment 923289
@TheOutlawKid, are you still offering this service?
The spring is not expected to catch on the "far side" of the barrel only catch on the screw to prevent the wedge from getting lost in battle.
Pietta is especially bad wilt this screw, being not located exactly right, and yes when you look at your screw you will find that the thread is not run all of the way up.
I've been playing with the two Pietta 1860s that I bought last December. One has been plagued with the wedge coming loose. I did a little polishing here and there trying to get enough penetration to get the bump on the end of the spring to pop up solidly.
I was shooting it yesterday and having to tighten the wedge after every cylinder full when in good light I could see daylight under the wedge screw. Aaa-Haaa! That's it!
View attachment 981726
Well, I looked at the sister gun and it was the same. I pulled out my "Dixie Yank", also a Pietta and it too had the same gap. And the wedge fit nicely. So I looked at what was different. The wedges were different.
View attachment 981727
The 1860 on top and Dixie Yank on bottom.
I took my Dremel tool and milled the excess rivet cap back to about the edge of the rivet. Now the wedge penetrates enough for the bump on the spring to pop up.
I hope to shoot it this afternoon to see if this has fixed the problem.
Hope your situation is tolerable, Kid!Sorry i havent been on much...im in texas. Not sure if you all been watching the news but texas has been out of power and water etc and is in a state of emergency. Ive also lost power and was affected. But private message and i will respond when i can get on