Cabella's Remingtons.

[tkcomer]

Looking to buy a ‘58 Remington repo to go with my ’60 Colt. Does anyone know who makes the Remington guns that Cabella’s sells? I got my Colt there years ago and it was made by Pietta which, in my poor hands, turned out to be fairly accurate. Still can’t make up my mind on the blue model or stainless. I love the look of the blue one, but the scratches wouldn’t show on a stainless model. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[mrelijahgardner]

I have bought several from cabelas and they have all been Pietta. I have not had a problem with any of them.

 

[tkcomer]

That’s good to hear. I just didn’t know who made them. My Pietta has been a great gun. Now if I can just figure out if I want stainless or blue.

 

[sundance44s]

Sundance44s

Cabelas only sells Remmies and Colts made by Pietta . . I called and asked last year ..

 

[Plastic Cowboy]

I've got a 58 Remington from Cabela's and it Pietta. However the Colt Walker I bought from Cabela's is Uberti. Both excellent high quality revolver. No complaints.

 

[Tommygunn]

Circa 1991-2 ish I bought a Colt 1849 in .31 cal from Cabela's that proved to be a Uberti. Nice charcoal blue, too, and a good price at the time! They still sell that model, but I can't say if they still get Uberti or not in the 1849 models.
If you buy a Remmie though, it will be Pietta. Don't let that bother you Pietta makes good revolvers.

 

[Plink]

I emailed Cabelas about a week ago asking that very question. They replied that it's made by Pietta.

 

[tkcomer]

Hey, thanks for all the info. Now, to get that order in. I always wanted a Remington. I just bought a Colt because I liked the look of it better at the time.

 

[Dave Markowitz]

I picked up a new 5.5" Remington from Cabela's a couple of months ago. It's a Pietta. Fit and finish is as nice as I've seen on any replica. The action is smooth and it's quite accurate with 28 grains of 3Fg and .457 balls.

 

[tkcomer]

Well I wussed out and ordered the stainless. I hope this gun shoots as well as the Colt. And that the repo Colt powder flask doesn’t give me any trouble loading it.

 

[cdm15]

44 pietta army

I must be crazy I could swear my book says 12-15 grains of fffg. 28? Can I go more? Don-
Whats the advantage of .457 over a .454 ball?

 

[JediJJJ]

Info from Pietta

I purchased a brass 1858 from Cabela's a couple of months ago. I received two manuals, one from Pietta and one from Cabela's. The Cabela's manual said to use 25-30gr of powder and a .450 (or was it a .451) ball. The Pietta manual said to use 12-15gr of powder (FFFg) and a .454 ball. (The Cabela's salesman tried to sell me the pyrodex 30 gr pellets. I left with a pound of 777 FFFg because I didn't want to chance the 30 gr.) I later e-mailed Pietta and they said I could use up to 30 gr of powder but I would find no reason to as it would work well with the lower charge. I also find the .454 balls to work well with a fairly even thin ring of lead shaved on loading, but would like to try a couple of .457s if I could find someone to trade me a dozen or so.

I've been shooting it with 15 gr of 777 FFFg, which is equivalent to 17.25 gr of true BP without any problem. I also pad with 20gr of corn meal and a lubed wad to get the ball closer to the top of the chamber.

I've also started wrapping all of the above into a paper cartridge to save time in loading. Once I got the taper down I haven't had any problems as long as I clean the remaining paper out of the bottom of the chamber before reloading.

 

[tkcomer]

I think my Cabela’s flask puts out about 24 grains of powder. Not a hot load, not a small load, but it is pretty accurate at 10 yards for my Colt. I’ll use it for my Remington. I just like playing with these guns. Since I reload for other guns, playing with the Colt is a pleasure.

 

[cdm15]

load

Does it matter if the ball is closer to the top? Whats the 777 in front of your fffg? Is that the brand. I'm using pyrodex P fffg, is that good? Darn right these guns are cool.. Don-

 

[JediJJJ]

777

777 is a Black Powder substitute made by Hogdgon. Depending on who you "talk" to here it is great, ok, or a sign that you are truly evil. I bought it because when I bought my 1858 it was the only FFFg powder they had in stock at Cabela's. They only carry substitutes, none of the "true" BPs. (Goex, Swiss)

It has worked fine for me, I don't seem to have an inordinate amount of fouling in the barrel (although I have nothing to compare it to), and cleans up without what I consider not to be too much hassle. I'd like to try some "holy" black at some point, but by my calculations at 15 gr/shot my 1 lb of 777 will yield about 466 shots. I think I have about 400 left to go.

It is my understanding, from this forum, that you don't want an air space between the powder and the ball. Because of the nature of BP it will cause excessive pressures, which I personally would like to avoid. So, because the ram on my 1858 won't reach down into the chamber far enough to compress the ball on top of a 15gr powder load, I use the filler. Also use a lubed wad on top of the powder as many here have recommended to seal the chamber and provide cleaning and softening of the fouling that does occur with each shot. I also put bore butter on top of the ball to provide additional sealing and cleanability.

Also, I think someone here talked about keeping the ball near the top of the chamber to increase accuracy. I think the theory was that if you had less distance to the forcing cone, which guides the ball into the cylinder, it was better. My untested and unscientific thought on this is that it is probably more relevant when you are shooting balls with a sprue button on them. Even though you may center the button when you put the ball in the chamber, if it twists and the button engages the rifling you have an out-of-balance ball exiting the muzzle and is probably a flier. Of course I'm sure most of my fliers are caused by my inability to see the target clearly, or my inability to hold the darn thing steady, or my inability...

Sorry to be so long winded but this stuff really is infectious. I'm thinking of starting CAS so I can, hopefully, talk my wife into a couple of Ruger Old Armys. Of course while I'm at it I might as well get a couple of Vaqueros because then I could shoot in a total of three classes when I load the Vaqueros with either BP or smokeless cartridges.

 

[Plastic Cowboy]

If you truly desire a very light load then you should use some sort of filler such as corn meal to prevent an air gap between the ball and powder since the seating ram will not be long enough to push the ball all the way down.

However I think that for 99% of you the more appropriate load would be 30-40 grains of the whatever powder you like (in a Remmie). The recoil is not significantly worse, the powder will sufficiently fill the chamber that additional fillers are not necessary, and honestly- powder is not that expensive so a couple of extra grains is not going to break the bank!!!

So stop worrying about air gaps and fillers and all that mess-- just make sure that your cyclinders are full enough that the ball slightly compresses the powder when seated to ensure a complete burn and you will always be good to go!!!

By the way- you can fill those cyclinders till they are overflowing (even with 777) and smash a ball down with all your might and you still will not overpressure the gun. Those cyclinders are designed such that the chambers cannot physically hold enough powder to overload the gun- thus with BP Revolvers ONLY undercharging is far more dangerous because an air gap is essentially the only way you can overpressure a modern repro BP revolver!!!!

......NOW GO MAKE SMOKE!!!!

(caveat: brass framed revolvers while safe with heavy loads, will eventually stretch the frame under the continued stress leading to decreasing accuracy and eventually malfunction, therefore it probably is appropriate to use light loads and fillers to make a brass framed revolver last longer. While Brass looks handsome- it was never meant to be a construction material for firearms. The confederates had a steel shortage and were forced to resort to brass frames which were less durable but still functional for short-term use. A brass framed revolver is nice to look at but for serious shooting you are better off with hardened steel)

 

[Cincinnati Slim]

Cabela's Remmies

Howdy All..

Got two Pietta Remmies from Cabela's. One blue and one stainless.

Excellent results with both. I use 30gr. Goex fff black powder, wonder wad, .454 Hornady round ball or, if I'm shooting indoors use 28 gr. Hogdon's 777 black powder substitute with the same ball/wad combo. I replaced the factory nipples with Thunder Ridge Muzzleloading stainless units and use Remington #11 caps. I have some extra stainless cylinders which I carry on my belt in a Triple K Leather "double magazine carrier". Cabela's stocks this item as a magazine pouch for .22 caliber autoloader rotary magazines. It's a PERFECT FIT for spare cap and ball revolver cylinders. I load the cylinders outside of the revolvers with a "Dick Dastardly/Big Lube" cylinder loader.
If I do my part and make sure the caps are well seated I get 99.997 % reliable ignition. The rare misfires ALWAYS go off on the second strike.
I've ported both for the loading gate of Kirst conversion cylinders. This helps Cap and ball shooting because it makes capping easier and prevents cap jams since the fragments have a BIG exit path. The downside is hot cap fragments on your trigger finger !

I usually shoot about 3 inch groups offhand at 25 yards with either Goex or 777. I'm sure I could do better if I'd break down get myself some eyeglasses.
Pushin' 50 and nearsighted, can't shoot what ya cain't see !


Happy Trails,

Cincinnati Slim

 

[tkcomer]

The gun is in and I’ve shot about 100 rounds through it. It’s a Pietta. You can see some pics of the wife firing it off here: http://www.pixagogo.com/8855594622 Got some other pics in there also. Trigger is creepy compared to the Colt. Doesn’t seem to be as accurate as the Colt, but that’s probably me getting used to the trigger. It has two nipples that seem smaller than the others. The Remington #10 caps that I have “snick” on 4 of them, but two just slide on. I’m squeezing the caps to solve that problem but end up with a “no-fire” every now and then. Overall I love the gun. And I love shooting it. Thinking of buying the spout kit from Cabela’s for my flask. I see they come in different sizes and the even has an 18 grain spout. Is that a good size for the smaller 36 caliber “pocket” pistols? This stuff is addictive.

 

[cdm15]

44 pietta army

Went back to the range and upped my powder to 28grs of geox fff and man what a difference. 12-15 is ok for nothing. My groups were 6-12" before and way high, now I'm shooting 15yrd with a 25yrd target and punchin threw the middle almost everytime. Hell I can't even see the target after the second shot but I'm getting rid of all the red on the center of it. The 28gr fills the cylinder with a pad under the ball and alittle crisco on top. AAAAAh, lifes good. And I'm glad I got this gun, cuz everyone craps when it goes off.
Don
My #11 rem. caps do pretty well,no misfires off 100 rounds and I flick off the reminents as they come around the cylinder.
OOOOOOh, I can go to 30grs of geox fff?

 

[sundance44s]

Sundance44s

Tkcomer ..i see ya shoot out of a work shop too .. i do that when it`s raining ...man talk about an echo can you say BOOMMMMMM

 

[Cincinnati Slim]

30gr. in yer Remmie

Howdy,

Ya kin step up to 30 gr. of fff in your Remmie with no problems.

I use 30gr. of holy black or 28gr. Triple Seven BP sub.

Recoil and accuracy seems about the same. You won't hurt your Remmie by stuffing the chambers full. You just reach a point of diminishing returns. BP burns SLOW, that's why them old front stuffers have such long barrels. After a point ye old pistola is just making more noise and smoke as leftover powder burns OUTSIDE the gun. Fun to watch, especially at night, but yer just waistin' powder after a certain point. 30-35 gr. is a good load for a modern Remmie, 28-30gr. for a 1860 Colt. I know of some folks who bore the cylinders of Remmies deeper to hold up to 45gr. of powder. Gotta use a conical heavier bullet to take advantage of that load. Puts ya into the "black powder magnum" catagory. I guess it's handy if'n your campin' with BEARS.

Happy Trails,

Cincinnati Slim

 

[tkcomer]

The shop is nice for close range work. I have to step outside after about 3 cylinders to let the smoke clear. The only reason I want more powder is the balls seem like they are seated awfully deep. I accidentally rotated the cylinder too far while talking to the wife and seated a ball on an empty chamber. Took the nipple off and filled it up. Replaced the nipple, then fired the gun. I was amazed on how much power the gun had. That told me the loading lever cannot mash a ball all the way down. And that ball was not much further down than the loaded chambers. I’ve ordered the nozzle set for my flask. I’ll try the 30 grain nozzle. Right now I’m out of “Wonder Wads”. And it’s supposed to be a nice day tomorrow.

 

[sundance44s]

Sundance44s

Yea that loading lever plunger won`t really seat a ball on the charge they tell ya to shoot in the papper work on a new pistol ...weird isn`t it ..remember air gaps are suppose to be bad right ...lol .. anyway i bought a cylinder loading stand from WWW.powderinc.com ... this thing works great and with it the reach is long enough to seat WITH compression on just 5 grs of powder ...
I`ve done it and its like shooting a 22 mag . in a 44 cal remmie .
Makes for much more consistant loading on any amount of powder ...which is good for the subs like 777 ...and APP powders some of them don`t like compression ..

 

[Smokin_Gun]

Lite a match holding it to 30gr of fffg BP and tell me how slow it burns...LoL!