Can't decide on a barrel for my AR

[mtnbkr]

I ordered the Bushmaster Superlight. A guy at my local shop (employee) has one and loves it. No, he didn't get a sale based on his recommendation, he encouraged me to order directly from Bushmaster. He said it would be the same price either way, maybe a hair cheaper from Bushmaster.

I got to handle the BM Superlight rifle at the gunshow this weekend and fell in love with it's weight and balance. It was exactly what I'm looking for. Except for the foregrip, my gun is nearly identical. Too bad nobody had chromed barrels at the show. :banghead:

Chris

 

[Mulliga]

Congrats - you've joined the ranks of the lightweight AR owners, who believe that an 8 pound rifle should be chambered in .308.

Does Bushmaster offer the complete Superlight rifle with all the preban features now? They don't have it listed on their website, but I hope this is the case.

I think you'll be happy with the accuracy of your new carbine. Soda cans are no problem at 100 yards.

 

[mtnbkr]

Does Bushmaster offer the complete Superlight rifle with all the preban features now

The one I handled had a true collapsing stock (dunno if it was 4 or 6 position), but I'm not sure if the flashhider was removeable or not.

Chris

 

[NMshooter]

The barrel is threaded.

Not that I would recommend trying to unscrew the flash hider unless you really want to.

What kind of free float tube do you have?

 

[natedog]

Either a "Superlight" A1 profile barrel from Colt (if you can find one) or Bushmaster (easy to find), or an M-4 profile barrel from Colt, LMT, Bushy, or CMMG. 5.56mm, chromed chamber, M-4 feedramps, MP tested are all good things. I don't see the point of a HBAR barrel on a carbine- it sort of defeats the purpose of a carbine in the first place. If I'm going to have an 8lb rifle, make mine in 7.62x51mm.

 

[mtnbkr]

What kind of free float tube do you have?

Hogue Overmolded. It's not tactical, but it feels good in the hand.

Chris

 

[DMK]

Since you want lightweight, 16" and will be shooting with open sights, you might want to consider this M4 profile Dissapator from Bushmaster. It's just an M4 barrel with the front sight extended out further for a better sight radius. It's a really nice setup. I bought one as a post AWB celebration but haven't assembled it yet.

FWIW, I built an AR with a chrome lined Bushmaster 20" A2 profile barrel. It shoots sub 2 MOA. I built a carbine with an RRA chrome lined 16" midlength that ADCO turned down to the A2 profile. It shoots about the same as the Bushmaster. I built an upper with an RRA 16" non-chrome lined HBAR and a free float tube. It shoots around a half inch better at 100 yards, but I'm still trying different brands of ammo in it.

 

[NMshooter]

If I recall you need to remove the front sight base and replace the barrel nut with one that comes with the Hogue tube.

Drifting the taper pins out is the hardest part.

I recommend getting a four pound maul and a oversized drift punch with a concave tip.

Put a wood block on a hard surface (like concrete) and place the part of the barrel with the front sight base against the block. Some hammering will be required. Once you break each pin free they drift out easily.

For the flash suppressor I recommend getting a set of vise jaw blocks (like the ones Bushmaster lists in their catalog) to hold the barrel. Then just use your handy armorer's wrench to unscrew it. You will probably want a replacement washer, I believe Bushmaster uses crush washers now.

The barrel nut is also removed with the armorer's wrench. I like to use the plastic vise jaw blocks made to fit the upper receiver, but the barrel blocks will work just fine to hold things in place.

When reassembling remember that the A2 flash suppressor must be properly "timed" or lined up: the center slot should line up with the front sight post. The taper pins must be reinserted all the way through; that last little bit use the oversized concave punch and the big hammer. For the barrel nut remember that you have to be able to pass the gas tube through one of the holes, so tighten up carefully making sure you line the hole in the upper receiver with a hole in the barrel nut.

Any other questions, let me know.

 

[JNewell]

I own uppers with HBAR, A2 and A1 profiles in 16" and 20". The only one I'd rule out, outright, is the HBAR. The difference between the A2 (true mil-spec A2 profile) and A1 is not huge. The "fat" part of the barrel is only part-length.

Having said that, I see no advantage for your use in the A2, and I have had nothing but good results with the 16" and 20" A1s.

 

[Wakal]

I'm fond of a .750 both fore and aft of the gas block, although some of the competition guns I've built lately have been .720 between the chamber and gas block, then .750 to the compensator (17" or 18" barrels) to save a bit on weight.

Of course, odd barrel contours are pretty easy when you can chuck the barrel up in your lathe and just make it whatever diameter and length that you want




Alex

 

[Roadrunner]

Hey Chris,
You know you want this:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=93&t=253636
Maybe he'll sell the upper and all the accessories.

 

[mtnbkr]

Be gone foul beast!

Do not tempt me so.

Besides, I need to get my 5.56 shooting first.

Chris

 

[sigma40sw]

Light AR

Lot's of good ideas posted here. I also wanted a light 16" AR.
My solution was to build from Parts, an A1 version. The issue A1 Barrel is chrome lined 1X12 twist. I cut 4" off the front to make it 16" and rethreaded it for the flash hider. You will have to adjust the gas port, so at the range I just kept opening up the gas port in the barrel with my numbered drill set until I got proper functioning. I only shoot 55gr bullets so the 1X12 twist is OK for my application. With the issue sights I can shoot under 2" at 100 yds.
Empty it weighs about 6.5 lbs. Makes a great carbine.
Sarco still has kits and complete front ends fo sale in the issue A1 configuration.

Sigma40sw