Cap & Ball again after long time.

[P95Carry]

Just recently got this Rem pattern .44 repro (Italian) ... I have always liked the construction of these compared with the Colt. However - way back when I had my Colt .. I included in the cleaning operation - not just cylinder, nipples and barrel .... but a complete take-down ... so that residues that get inside thru hand slot etc ... get dealt with.

Now I am older and lazier . ...... and am wondering if when I get to shoot this ..... I will go to that much trouble. Thing is ... unless I eyeball inside .. it's hard to know what fouling is there. I do intend to try out some ''Triple 7'' FFFg ..... and this should decrease fouling I hope.

So - other cap & ball people ..... how fastidious are you with cleaning?

(Really oughta get an Old Army but .. way more pricey than this fella above.)

 

[Crownvicman]

I take my revolver apart every couple of months to clean the insides. Usually I just field strip the gun and clean it.

 

[Navy joe]

I do all cleaning w/ soap and water, all lube with Ballistol and run Bore butter over top of the balls. I seasoned the chambers with Butter in the same manner as the barrel. Using real Blackpowder I have let the thing sit for two months before cleaning with no issues. I prefer to clean everytime I shoot. I really don't see the need for fake Bp, the real stuff does not really make much of a mess to my mind. Ballistol is the deal though, keeps that cylinder pin free for over 100 rounds.

 

[Hellgate]

P95,
With real BP you can't really overload the gun but if you were to shoot chuck full chambers of 777 you might manage to stretch the brass frame. I'd stick to no more than 20 or 25 grs of 777 in the gun (30grs BP no problem) and a round ball. As for cleanup, the 777 would only require a water based solvent wipedown, barrel swabbing, chamber swabbing, Q-tips, and maybe WD-40 hosed into the interior. I only fully strip my C&Bs about once a year if that to get at the internals. Lotsa oil or WD-40 is a good preservative for the innards. There will be an accumulation of black mush but no rust.

 

[P95Carry]

Hellgate - yeah - if I try the 777 it'll be cautiously!! In fact in my old Colt I never went to full BP loads even . .... I'll kick of at 20 grns almost for sure.

As for the WD-40 tho .... NO thanks!!! Plenty of other alternatives.... WD and guns as far as I am concerned ... bad Juju!!

 

[foghornl]

Got a "Traditions" brand repro of the 1851 Navy Colt from the fatman in red suit last month. This one is made by LLI Pietta of Italy.

Pyrodex is a volume to volume replacement for BP, but the "Triple Seven" should be loaded about 15% LESS than the equivalent grade of Pyrodex/Pyrodex Select/ Black Powder. Note that BP is loaded by volume, not weight.

For cleaning, a lot of hot water and soap, then the BP solvent.

 

[P95Carry]

Ditto re maker fog ... seems most repros come from that source these days. Pretty good value IMO.

Point noted re Triple 7 ... I shall be cautious.

 

[Hellgate]

P95,
The reason I use WD-40 is that my first "real" gun was a '61 Navy Uberti that I could not get the trigger spring screw out for over 20 years so i never did a tear down cleaning. Finally i had the right screwdrivers & a padded vise. And got it open. The works were full of black mush, cap frags & caps but no rust. What I had done after each cleaning of the frame, cylinder & barrel was to spray WD down into the works in front of the hammer & up behind the trigger and pray. I also dropped oil into the action as well. There were times when I could not clean the gun for a few days so I'd hose the barrel, frame, & chambers with WD and pray some more. This was back in the 1960s & 70s (finally got the gun apart in the late 80s). So it has treated me well and the gun is still going strong after at least a couple thousand rounds through it. Never even broke a hand spring (almost a "given" for ASM & Pietta). Anyway, your mileage may vary. So many things work with BP that the argument over what is "best" will never be resolved. As a veterinarian I've come to realize that whenever there are lots of treatments for a disease condition it means one of two extremes: either no matter what you treat it with, it's gonna get better OR there is no cure at all so people try everything and some work at times but not any better than others at different times (i.e. the common cold, lots of treatments but no cures). If there is ever a true cure found for something, all the other treatments disappear.

 

[P95Carry]

Hellgate ........ well sure seems WD did you no disservice .... I think maybe what helped was your use of oil as well.

Thing I have against WD is .. it is not - per se - a true lubricant and, once the volatile components have evaporated off ... it does leave a residue that somewhat ''gums'' things.

That said .... your ''cocktail for internals'' sure did the trick ... 20 years!! Pretty good!

 

[Dave Markowitz]

If you wind up using Pyrodex make sure you clean the gun the same day you shoot it. Pyrodex fouls less than real BP, but the fouling that it does leave behind is more corrosive than BP.

 

[foghornl]

The following information is 'copy & paste' from Hodgdon's website regarding loads of the Triple Seven powder vs. Pyrodex or Black Powder:


All charges of Triple Seven should be measure by VOLUME not weight. A simple, adjustable black powder measure is the correct tool for this job. All loads listed in this brochure are measured by VOLUME.

Triple Seven is a high energy product designed to provide the muzzleloading hunter with higher velocities when used in the same VOLUME as black powder. To duplicate a black powder load velocity using Triple Seven, you must decrease the powder charge by 15%. *See WARNING below.

*WARNING - Failure to follow the recommendations for use of Triple Seven could result in injury and/or death to the shooter, or bystanders and damage to property.

 

[P95Carry]

Thx fog ....... I think someone else did point me at that info but ..... well worth consideration.

I have also tried CleanShot in the past and make it a point to always work volumetrically ... as well as being cautious too ....... in fact I rarely load up top end loads so - I shall start I think with my 20 grn spout on powder flask to start off.

 

[gunsmither]

Hoppe's 9 Plus Blackpowder Cleaner

I've been using Hoppe's 9 Plus for a couple of years now to totally clean my Colt and Remington Replica's, and my Ruger Old Armies, and I leave it in the bore and cylinders with no rust! Great stuff in my experience.

I squirt some into the revolver actions, and blow it out with 80- 100 lbs. of compressed air. It's messy, but quick! On the Remmy, I remove the triggerguard if I feel up to it; Colt's and Ruger's, just blow thru the hammer and hand, and cyl bolt cuts; maybe loosen the screw's occasionally to blow out crud. Blows all the crap out real fast; hardly ever take my revolvers totally apart anymore; no need too with this method. 9 Plus leaves behind an oil film that prevents rust, and gives plenty of lube to the internal parts..

I think 9 Plus is probably nothing but high priced soluble oil with some other solvents and water, but it works real good in my experience. A $6.00 bottle lasts pretty long. I use it in my caplock rifles also; I have left it in the bore for 6 months or more with zero problems. No more boiling water down the bore for me. Good Stuff! Safe Shooting Friends! -"gunsmither"

 

[P95Carry]

Never tried that but seems to work good for you.

I guess if water based with soluble oil then maybe best of all worlds .. water based deals with corrosive salts and then a residue of lube left after ... first time I have heard of it ... amazingly enough!

Must check it out methinks. Thx.