Cardboard at Fore-End as Bedding?
- Thread starter Jaywalker
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Ive tied out the card board to see how it would shoot then read a article by John barness i think it was who said to just epoxy the cardboard in place if it shoots well
Sounds like a good idel to me and you will only see it fi you take action out of stock.
Also the cardboard there talking about is like ammo box not the big stuff didnt want anyone saying hey thats a lot of cardboard
Sounds like a good idel to me and you will only see it fi you take action out of stock.
Also the cardboard there talking about is like ammo box not the big stuff didnt want anyone saying hey thats a lot of cardboard
tc300mag1, I think Barsness was talking about the "ammo box cardboard" near the action lug in order to elevate the barrel. That would allow less material to be removed during a free-floating approach. This one is slightly different, an attempt to simulate a fore-end bedding.
Business cards? Business cards? I'm all electronic now, with a Palm Pilot - electrons can't prop anything up!
Jaywalker
Business cards? Business cards? I'm all electronic now, with a Palm Pilot - electrons can't prop anything up!
Jaywalker
45crittergitter
Member
I don't like the idea of using something (paper) that will soak up moisture as bedding or shim material.
Art Eatman
Moderator In Memoriam
When I've messed with the bedding of the forearm, I've hogged it out pretty freely except for the final inch or so at the tip.
I cut a 3/4" strip of kitchen wax paper and fold it back and forth until it's just barely too thick. I've found that about a five-pound pull for separation and insertion works well. Trim carefully with a razor blade...
The idea--as told me by my uncle some 50+ years ago--is that the shim functions as does the shock absorber on a car, damping the vibrations of the spring and thus giving better shot-to-shot uniformity.
Shooting three or four quick rounds heats the barrel just enough that the wax sticks in place.
, Art
I cut a 3/4" strip of kitchen wax paper and fold it back and forth until it's just barely too thick. I've found that about a five-pound pull for separation and insertion works well. Trim carefully with a razor blade...
The idea--as told me by my uncle some 50+ years ago--is that the shim functions as does the shock absorber on a car, damping the vibrations of the spring and thus giving better shot-to-shot uniformity.
Shooting three or four quick rounds heats the barrel just enough that the wax sticks in place.
, Art
DMK
Member
I really like Art's idea of using wax paper. I plan on trying that with my freefloated M39 to test that 5lb of up pressure on it's accuracy.
However, one could make any paper or thin cardboard waterproof by soaking it with clear polyeurothane from a spray can. Look for it in the paint department at your local hardware store or Wally World.
However, one could make any paper or thin cardboard waterproof by soaking it with clear polyeurothane from a spray can. Look for it in the paint department at your local hardware store or Wally World.
tc300mag1, No, it would probably work okay, but it would be a lot more trouble than simply putting a piece of cardboard or waxpaper in the fore-end. The point of the fore-end "hump" (of wood) is to add pressure to the barrel; epoxied cardboard would just add more pressure. The point of epoxy-ing the fore-end is different than epoxy-ing near the recoil lug - it's to make it be steady for each shot, while keeping pressure on it. (Free-floating is to relieve the pressure.) Some rifles respond to that, and some need to be free-floated. I'm trying the epoxy in the fore-end first because it's easy. If it doesn't work, then I'll scrape out the epoxy AND the fore-end hump and try free-floating. My question has to do with whether the cardboard under the fore-end might be even easier AND determine how well the fore-end epoxy would work.
I don't think I'd want to leave any paper products (except possibly wax paper) in there for any length of time - again, it's just temporary to see if a fore-end epoxy approach might work. I don't know if either of the two represents the results of the other, though.
I think I'll try the wax paper for tomorrow... It's too late to epoxy it for shooting that soon, and I've been digging out the badly-applied epoxy from a previous attempt, so there are certainly high points there and a resulting bad bedding until I do something else. Maybe wax paper will work for awhile, even with an uneven base from my gouging.
Jaywalker
I don't think I'd want to leave any paper products (except possibly wax paper) in there for any length of time - again, it's just temporary to see if a fore-end epoxy approach might work. I don't know if either of the two represents the results of the other, though.
I think I'll try the wax paper for tomorrow... It's too late to epoxy it for shooting that soon, and I've been digging out the badly-applied epoxy from a previous attempt, so there are certainly high points there and a resulting bad bedding until I do something else. Maybe wax paper will work for awhile, even with an uneven base from my gouging.
Jaywalker
Art Eatman
Moderator In Memoriam
Somebody makes a little nylon screw and nut dealie that you can install in the forearm. You can then vary the pressure on the barrel, "tuning" it for best results.
Dunno if it works any better than the wax paper. I've used that trick on--I dunno for sure--maybe a dozen or fifteen rifles, and it most always makes an improvement.
Art
Dunno if it works any better than the wax paper. I've used that trick on--I dunno for sure--maybe a dozen or fifteen rifles, and it most always makes an improvement.
Art
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