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CETME buffers

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raubritter

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I've ordered a BJB internal buffer for my CETME. The small drum shaped buffer that fits inside the actual buffer assy. It has a good reputation and I've found Black Jack Buffers to work much more reliably than others. What do you CETME owners think?

(Also found that g3 magazines work better than the actual CETME mags)
 
Don't like buffers in a gun unless they were manufactured with them or you're trying to solve a specific problem--even then, a "real" fix of the problem is prefered. Is yours doing something that needs afixin'?

It'd suck if that buffer got beat up to the point of a piece coming off and lodging up in the fire control group during an important social situation. Those types have been used across the globe with excellent results sans buffer. If you can afford the ammount of ammo needed to destroy or damage it, just buy a spare cetme! :D
(That said, I'd agree if one was "needed", the blackjack's are the way to go.)

Mine isn't picky with mags, cetme or g3, as long as the mags themselves are in fair shape.
 
We're on the same page. The factory internal buffer sys doesn't buff any more. That's one of the reasons I'm getting the Black Jack instead of that questionable block of gray stuff. That big block just sort of sits in there and would be a malfunction threat if it were to chip or tear.
 
The BJB CETME buffer simply replaces the original buffer mounted behind the buttsocket. it does hold up better than the 50+ year old leather that was in most (some had rubber) and does not create any stress problems as will happen with a buffer mounted in front of the butt socket which can crack welds etc... I've used quite a few of em but have found that they are not actually as solvent resistant as they are supposed to be so be careful not to let cleaning solvent settle in the hole, they won't disolve or anything it just seems to break them down faster....
 
Ah, crap. The Threaded cap won't come off the assy. There's a dimple on the seam where the cap meets the buffer tube.
 
You might have to dremel a bit that that dimple is. IIRC, that's a small spot weld. I could be wrong. One of the best ways to get that cap off is to let the whole thing soak for a good long while in some kind of lubricant/penetrating oil, then fix the plate in a vise and use a flat pry-bar on the cap. When I did mine, I lag-screwed the buffer assembly to a board, and locked the board in a vise. A medium-sized flat bar is just thick enough to fit in those two gaps in the cap, and long enough to give you leverage to turn it. Even after Dremelling the spot weld, you still have some weld to break loose. It'll go. Just make sure that whatever tool you use to turn it fits those two gaps properly, so you don't bung them up.

I saw a post on cetmerifles dot com where a guy had made a special tool to turn that from of a piece of key-way steel welded to an old 3/8" socket.
 
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