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Cheap .357 Sig range ammo

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How compressed? antsi.

Please go on with your story as in # of grains and all the stuff that is important. Which design of bullet, teasers are no good I need meat with my burger. 147 grain and what else? Primer, make of case, make of bullet make and powder in grains. I would appreciate it.
Any one shooting lead. Little fast for the lead bullets but who knows what the nose knows, speak beak.
To crimp or not to crimp since it head spaces on the shoulder you can crimp and increase the pressure, how high? (How high is the pressure momma, 600 pounds and rising!).
:uhoh: HQ
 
I believe it headspaces on the case mouth, not the shoulder, at least thats what the manuals I've read state.

I myself would not use lead. Unless you have a good recipe for hard cast and gas checked. Leaded barrels are a pain in the butt. :)
 
Hmmm

That will be an interesting situation a shouldered item on the mouth case, that makes it pretty unusual. Makes that area very critcal in MHO...

I'll definitly verify and play with it to find out the very best of what to do.
They were mentioning the 40 resized to the 357 brings the casing up short about .020 It is funny they use a .020 and then add a " which we know is a inch sign.

I am just curious in the land of Europe how would you be showing it, in " or metric?..

So would you be showing it as 5.09* in mm or ????

Boy my digital is sure touchy hope I am able to get it close enough so I am not going to go wierd.

Then they mention not to use the 10mm because it uses the large pistol primer. I have my work cut out for me.

I will just get some brass and go from there. But it does sound like it has all the makings, that reloading interests regarding the tech side. Just to slam 38's in to a 357 cylinder never trim and never worry is just to boring.:uhoh:

Edit for the correct application it is the shoulder it headspaces on, now that makes sense.
http://www.realguns.com/archives/001.htm

Lead in this caliber is not going to be a good thing I can see that, especially out of a 6" barrel.

I believe a 124 grain will be able to hit the 1500+ fps, with ease.

HQ:cool:
 
Edit for the correct application it is the shoulder it headspaces on,...
I have a reloading book from Midway that is specific for the 357SIG caliber. It has reprints from the major reloading manuals, powder makers, and bullet makers. The following company's state in their "info" page that the 357SIG headspaces on the case mouth and not the shoulder, Nosler, Sierra, Speer, and Vihtavuori.

Thanks for posting the link on the shoulder headspace. I only got to scan it briefly, but I intend to look at it closer here in a bit.

A couple of the sites I read online also recommended keeping a close eye on case OAL if your shooting hot loads because of the bottle neck, and to trim as necessary. This is something I dont normally associate with pistol brass. I normally dont worry about trimming or case life with pistol ammo and shoot it until it fails. It usually lasts forever, so we will see here with the 357SIG.

One other thing I just encountered yesterday while sizing some brass. I shoot indoors on occasion and have to sweep up the brass from the floor, usually in a hurry. This requires you sort the brass before it goes into the tumbler, mostly so the smaller brass doesnt get bound up in the bigger brass, and to just keep things segregated. .45 is pretty easy to spot between the two, but .40 and 357SIG are a little tougher to spot the difference in a big pile. I use a .40 sizer first then finish with the 357SIG sizer so I dont have to lube the brass. While running the brass through the 357SIG sizer, I noticed a piece of .40 brass that I had missed in the sort process and the first sizing just as it was going up into the 357 die. It went right on up, without any hesitation or difference in feel, and came out a 357SIG case. When I miked it, it was in fact 0.020 short. I came across another later on and ran it through too, and it too was 0.020 short. I dont know how much of an issue this really is, but you may want to keep an eye out.
 
Hi AK103K

I am going to have to buy some reloading dies for this cartridge, I have not bought many dies of late, since I have been doing it for so long.
I have mis match, some lyman some, rcbs and an occasional lee.
What have you found as a preference since you are loading the 357 sig?

They mention you can not go for carbide because it is similar to the rifle dies and are pretty expensive if you could find one. What size of an expander would you recommend? Your thoughts on this problem, the bullets are going to be .356+ slight crimp, second step? I like to throw and then trickle to max or if I dont care then I will throw 3% under and see how that goes...
I like to be careful but not anal. I become anal when I am on the cusp. :what:

If the bottom of the bullet is not like this--u--. I no like this _ it is sometime a pain. Oh well, I'll get ur done You can sometimes bell with a bigger expander ball but...:banghead:

HQ:)
 
Harley,

I have the same mish mash. :)

Lately, I've been buying the Hornady dies, for both rifle and pistol. They cost a little more, but I seem to get a better job with them. Thier seater die has a sleeve that centers the bullet just before is seats. Makes for a much easier and nicer job.

If you buy an extra .40S&W carbide sizer and run the brass through it first, you can then run the brass through the non carbide 357SIG sizer without lube. It works great, but it does add another step to the process. Then again, you loose the "clean the lube from the case" step.

I use the expander that came with the dies and just ever so bell the case. I also set a pretty good crimp. I've just started loading for it, and so far have only tried the Speer 125 grain Uni-Cor TMJ's.

For powder, I'm using AA#7. I was looking for #9, but no one had any around here. It appears that might be the one to use, but the #7 has been working fine so far. I throw the charges and randomly check 5 or so from the lot of 50. I dont bother trying to weigh each one for most pistol ammo. So far, the AA#7 meters very consistently and the thrown charges are almost always right on.

I'm not sure I understand your "If the bottom of the bullet is not like this--u--. " thing.
 
Harley Quinn

More details:
AA#9, 11.2 grains
Winchester small pistol primers
Bullets: Speer GDHP 147gr, Remington 147gr JHP (Midway has these in bulk and they are much less expensive than the Gold Dots).
I have used both these kind of bullets with no appreciable difference for range shooting.
Cases: Approximately 1/3 of my brass is Speer Lawman, 1/3 is S&B, and 1/3 is nickel plated Winchester. I have not noticed any appreciable difference in the brass for range shooting purposes.
My C.O.L. for these is 1.160. I believe this is right at max length or just a skoshe over but has not been a problem in my gun.
I use a very slight barely perceptible bell and a medium-firm crimp.

I do not have any way of measuring "how compressed" this load is. It is basically straight from the Accurate Arms reloading manual and is listed as a compressed load. I do not have any setback problems with this load.
 
I dont notice any of the usual complaints by the nay sayers about flash or noise

I had never heard of 357SIG until I went shooting with my brother and his wife. Her favorite was her SIG. He and I were shooting .45ACP when I hear this incredibly LOUD cannon coming from my S-I-L. It was FUN! She let me shoot of a couple of magazines, and I decided I really liked that round.

When my brother passed away, she gave me his USP40. He had purchased a 357SIG barrel for it (was supposed to drop in, but needed fitting). He never sent it to the manufacturer for fitting, and just a few days ago, I finally got around to doing that. I can't wait until it comes back. Gotta find me some of that ammo!
 
Thanks for the information

I believe I will go with the hornady on this one and probably be very happy.

I should have used the capitol U it is clearer as to what the bottom/base of the bullets that I like, and usually are not going to be in the pistol. but are avaliable in the rifle boat tails.
The ones that are the biggets problem are gas checked dudes unless you have the bell there but not to much, tough on the case mouth apparantly there is no problem to necking down the 40"s and comin up short. No annealing needed? One step is nice.

I bought a bunch of 5.7 mm Johnson from an outfit (loaded) and wanted to reload and not start from scratch (pretty complicated or time consuming) if you start with the 30 carbine. They said they did not anneal.

All the cases split at the shoulder and were worthless. I had the chamber checked and replaced the barrel. (such a deal) Hammering with high pressure and causing the brass to flow should send the brass to the case mouth after a couple of shootings, then they will measure good :what: :neener:


History Prof, I am looking for this barrel to fit right in. If not I will be slightly irritated. It is going into a Glock. But it is my opinion it wil fit. HK will do the work??? So you teach. History I love it. Reading about "Tamerlane" right now, what a sweetheart. Fits into why we are where we are at, with the current problem. US and them. ;)

Antsi: if shooting the 124/5 maybe it would not be a compressed load?
or would you be adding a few more granuels???

Regards, HQ:)
 
You are not going to find inexpensive .357 SIG ammo unless you reload yourself. I just ran off a few hundred rounds of 90 JHP's with 6.7 gr of Bulleye they chronoed at about 1400. the most inexpensive was using 125gr hard cast lead [linotype metal] with 7.0 gr of Unique for about 1200 fps. Kills Prarrie Dogs dead. Reloading that bottlenecked case can be a pain in the rear, but it's worth it. The cast bullets disintegrate on steel plates, occasionally I've had jackets richocet back towards me. Yeah the .357 SIG puts out more of a blast then the 9mm but it is more of a blast to shoot. The only reason it is not my CCW is because it's bulkier then my Hi-Power. Also if I have to be mobile it's far easier to find 9mm ammo then .357 SIG ammo. Also resizing .40 S&W cases down to .357 is not a good idea unless you're prepared to ream the neck and anneal it. I don't think it's worth the risk.
 
BRASSM

I agree with you about the 9mm and the avaliability plus inexpensive.
But we all need to play and have extra toys that are fun.
The Hi CAP Mags are my way of thinking with the nato round in 9mm. pretty nasty little critter. HPs at the same speed are ok also.:uhoh:

17L or the 17 Glock, is my thoughts on the way to go for practice and getting training then go to the others and you will be in top form. I am going to get into this 357 Sig big time, (Mdl 22 Glock with a sig barrel or the 40 cal both 6.5 inchs), just won 500 cases on e-bay and bidding on 1500 more. :what:

I'll load um up and then sit back and have plenty when the time comes to need um. I'll have fun and then move on to something else.

I am not one to sit idel, I need new frontiers to go to, a new gun or bullet, to a new book to read or a building project. Or just woking out at the local Dojo. No moss on this stone.:D

HQ:cool:
 
I went out and bought some 357Sig frangable

They are only 85 grain and are very high velocity, they are designed to carry on airplanes and not go through the hull.:uhoh:

They say DEA approved. It will be interesting to see what they will do to various stuff. Made out of a very light material but they are bullets and I'll see how they shoot, and if they go where I want them to (aim). Going to be testing them as soon as I get that barrel.:D

Anyone else run in to these dudes, they are strickly for human consumtion.:rolleyes:
Guy at the gunshop mentioned I should get another 100 ft Per sec out of them because the barrel is 6.5"... Nice
HQ
 
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I had some of the 85gr frangible,and it would not fully cycle my USPc,MULTIPLE FTF in my Glock 32,but my Sig 239 ran it flawlessly.I only paid $100 shipped for 1000 rds,but due to the high number of malfunctions in my guns,I probably won't get any more.As I mentioned earlier in this thread,I got 1000rds of 125gr FMJ from Precision Cartridge in Indiana,I've shot about half of that already,and I ordered another 1000 today...:D
 
kirkcdl

Thanks for the heads up it does make sense if you think much about it , Failure to cycle etc.. If I was going to carry them and had them in the gun always, I would make sure I had the spring to do the job. :scrutiny:
Might be one of those things where if you are going to shoot and carry them much for backup, you will have to have a different spring.

HQ:D
 
:D

Awesome thread considering I just ordered a Sig P239 in .357 Sig today. Ammo prices really aren't as bad as people think when you go online and buy bulk. Cheapest local I've seen is $15.99/50 for WWB. :uhoh:

Everybody says the .357 is a hoot, I'm really looking forward to it. :evil:
 
Just got another 1000 brass off e-bay

That put's me up to 1500 brass in the last couple of days.

I believe from all my reading and owning shooters this will be a fun deal.
I am of the opinion the type of case you have here (bottleneck) you are going to get much more consistant loads and it will be much better for reloading. Some have mentioned they headspace on the case mouth, not
true.

So much misinformation out there you folks need to do your home work make a case that is correct then shorten the case mouth and it still works, because it is the shoulder doing the job. :uhoh:
Take one that has been shot a lot or make one out of a 10mm and have it extend to far and you will find out.
Be careful and have fun. If you use 10mm brass and cut it down the game is quite different because of large pistol primers and thickness of case, so be careful.:what:
I have quite a bit of 231 W powder so I will start with that. Unique would be good with large pistol primer in 10mm cases made up. IMHO.

If in doubt do a cast of the chamber and go from there. Brownell's sells the casting material. You can send the cast to the die maker and they will make sure you get what you need.

HQ:)
 
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