Mauser lover
Member
I am looking for a cheap .22 LR or .22 WMR double action revolver. Anybody know of any kind/brand that is cheaper than $300.00?
cheap revolvers
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Remo223
member
http://charterfirearms.com/products/Charter_Pathfinder_72224.html
The price shown is MSRP. You should be able to get it for just under $300
The price shown is MSRP. You should be able to get it for just under $300
My local shop sells a brand new heritage .22lr revolver for $200, and usually my areas is slightly more expensive. I have no personal experiance with one, but know people who do, and they love it.
I know a few pawn shops that often have a .22lr revolver is vsrious brands, conditions, for as low as $100.. you can check there.
Heres the heritage list on there site:
http://www.heritagemfg.com/site/department.cfm?id=1810
3rd and 5th down. Again I CANNOT SAY THSTS ITS A GOOD OR BAD GUN, you will have to research that your self. Or see if anyone else states so. I just know a few local shooters that i see often at the range that like them.
I know a few pawn shops that often have a .22lr revolver is vsrious brands, conditions, for as low as $100.. you can check there.
Heres the heritage list on there site:
http://www.heritagemfg.com/site/department.cfm?id=1810
3rd and 5th down. Again I CANNOT SAY THSTS ITS A GOOD OR BAD GUN, you will have to research that your self. Or see if anyone else states so. I just know a few local shooters that i see often at the range that like them.
Mauser lover
Member
Double action would be nice, but thanks anyway for the heritage website, I will keep that site name for future reference.
BCRider
Member
The cheap revolvers may spit out lead. But the cheap revolvers typically all have really horrendous triggers. If you're looking for a decent level of accuracy in your plinking I suspect you'll find that few or none of the cheap guns are going to serve you well.
Before I tripped over a deal on a S&W Model 17 from a shooting buddy I went through a couple of cheaper used .22's. Both have terrible triggers. So bad that in the case of the Hi Standard Double 9 I treated it as a single action pistol since the style of the grip is so cowboy gun like. The other, an H&R Sportsman top break, I'm still working on as a project gun to get the DA trigger effort down to a tolerable leve while still having enough hammer energy to reliably fire the primers. But even when done to a nice degree it will never match the smoothness and feel of the 17.
All of this is intended to warn you that buying a cheap revolver may end up being very expensive. A gun isn't cheap any more if it's so lousy to shoot that you never take it out. Far better to look into this a little more and get a gun which you will smile at every time you shoot it. That means you'll take it out more. So even if it ends up costing twice your $300 budget over the years to come the cost per range outing will end up being less.
Granted you haven't said how or where you'll be shooting your revolver. But either way it's something to think about. And frankly, as much as I love my revolvers, if the budget is that tight for this gun due to where it'll live or what it'll be used for then I'd seriously suggest a cheap semi auto. You can get a lot more gun when it comes to cheap .22's by sticking with semis than you can looking for wheelguns. But if the goal is to have a nice revolver for range sessions seriously consider bringing up the amount you can afford to spend to allow getting a gun with a known good trigger.
Up this way no one sells Charter Arms guns. So I can't really comment directly on what it's like to shoot them. But there's been more than one thread here in the revolver forum about just this topic when it comes to .22 wheelguns. You may want to review those threads for some more suggestions.
Before I tripped over a deal on a S&W Model 17 from a shooting buddy I went through a couple of cheaper used .22's. Both have terrible triggers. So bad that in the case of the Hi Standard Double 9 I treated it as a single action pistol since the style of the grip is so cowboy gun like. The other, an H&R Sportsman top break, I'm still working on as a project gun to get the DA trigger effort down to a tolerable leve while still having enough hammer energy to reliably fire the primers. But even when done to a nice degree it will never match the smoothness and feel of the 17.
All of this is intended to warn you that buying a cheap revolver may end up being very expensive. A gun isn't cheap any more if it's so lousy to shoot that you never take it out. Far better to look into this a little more and get a gun which you will smile at every time you shoot it. That means you'll take it out more. So even if it ends up costing twice your $300 budget over the years to come the cost per range outing will end up being less.
Granted you haven't said how or where you'll be shooting your revolver. But either way it's something to think about. And frankly, as much as I love my revolvers, if the budget is that tight for this gun due to where it'll live or what it'll be used for then I'd seriously suggest a cheap semi auto. You can get a lot more gun when it comes to cheap .22's by sticking with semis than you can looking for wheelguns. But if the goal is to have a nice revolver for range sessions seriously consider bringing up the amount you can afford to spend to allow getting a gun with a known good trigger.
Up this way no one sells Charter Arms guns. So I can't really comment directly on what it's like to shoot them. But there's been more than one thread here in the revolver forum about just this topic when it comes to .22 wheelguns. You may want to review those threads for some more suggestions.
woad_yurt
Member
Check out some H&Rs. They're all over the place used; Gunbroker is swimming in them. I have a few and have owned many more and they've all been great. My cheapest Gunbroker purchase was $69.00. If you spend $200, you should be able to get one in fantastic condition. They're DA, too, and most hold 9 rounds.
They do make a 6 round convertible, the 676. Mine's a tack driver.
There's a guy on here who goes by the name of "Jamesjo." Maybe he'll pipe up. He's got a ton of them w/lots of pictures.
My 676:
They do make a 6 round convertible, the 676. Mine's a tack driver.
There's a guy on here who goes by the name of "Jamesjo." Maybe he'll pipe up. He's got a ton of them w/lots of pictures.
My 676:
Jonah71
Member
Another vote here for an old H&R. I've never had a problem with any of them.
MedWheeler
Member
A used Taurus 94 should come in under that, and a new one for right around that.. Had one years ago, and had a lot of fun with it. Taught my then-wife to shoot with it, then let her keep it when we divorced.
Mauser lover
Member
BCRider, I only wanted something that I could pull out of a pocket and shoot a snake at my feet with, without having to pull a slide back and let it go before being able to shoot the snake. I do not really care about horrible trigger pull in that situation, nor do I care about bad accuracy at that point. As long as I can hit the snake, and disable it quickly, before it can strike. If I scared it by racking the gun, I probably am toast, and I do not want to carry an auto with a cartridge chambered, nor do I want to carry a single action revolver that I must cock before I can shoot it.
MedWheeler, Thank you for your suggestion, I was already thinking of a Taurus, but didn't know what to think about them, as I have heard horrendous reports of that brand as well as excellent reviews of their guns. Have you had any problems with yours?
MedWheeler, Thank you for your suggestion, I was already thinking of a Taurus, but didn't know what to think about them, as I have heard horrendous reports of that brand as well as excellent reviews of their guns. Have you had any problems with yours?
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MedWheeler
Member
No, Mauser, I never had problems with it, but I have not owned it since my then-wife and I divorced in 1996. It did get shot a pretty good bit before that. I had it maybe six years. I wouldn't mind picking up another one if I could find it for about that price, and if my current wife expressed an interest in learning herself.
Incidentally, my first handgun was a Taurus as well. It was a Model 66 (.357 Magnum), purchased in 1987, and has performed as it should, even after spending 2 1/2 years on the street changing hands who-knows-how-many times after being stolen in a burglary. I still own it, and it does bedside duty quite often (taking turns with my Ruger Police Service Six.)
Yes, Taurus has a less-than-level record with many people, but it's pretty easy to check one out for fit and finish before buying it.
Incidentally, my first handgun was a Taurus as well. It was a Model 66 (.357 Magnum), purchased in 1987, and has performed as it should, even after spending 2 1/2 years on the street changing hands who-knows-how-many times after being stolen in a burglary. I still own it, and it does bedside duty quite often (taking turns with my Ruger Police Service Six.)
Yes, Taurus has a less-than-level record with many people, but it's pretty easy to check one out for fit and finish before buying it.
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BCRider
Member
Mauser lover, if that's the case then any of the options mentioned would do fine. It also sounds like you're a prime candidate for a short barrel "kit gun" snubby sort of gun with a 3 or less inch long barrel. Loaded with snake shot rounds such a gun should do fine.
Do you reload at all? If so and if you like the idea of owning a .38Spl revolver at some point then a 3 inch snubby K or J frame loaded with some lower power snake killing shot rounds would be an option. And then you'd have a gun which might suit you more at the range or for daily carry. Not saying you should go this route in favour of the .22, but it's an option to consider. Even if you don't want to get into reloading in bulk at this point a small setup to punch out primers and put in new ones and load some shot rounds would not need a lot. In fact with empties that are in good shape which slip in and out of the cylinder easily you would not even need any dies. You'd use a method similar to the videos in this section on loading black powder shot shells. A pin and support block with a metal washer to allow punching out the spent primer. A wood dowel and hardwood or metal block to permit setting the new primer and then pour in a suitable amount of some powder, a felt wad or two, some shot and then cap it with a card stock end. LIkely seal and glue the top cap in place with a coat of nail varnish or some other fast drying lacquer like product.
Given the short distance you'd use such a load over a VERY conservative approach would work well. I'd say maybe 90 to 100 grains worth of a small size shot such as #9 to #11 with a couple of the thin 1/16 felt wads between the shot and some powder. For powder a light charge similar or slightly less than the minimum powder charge for a similar weight bullet of some regular smokeless powder would do fine and should be entirely safe for the gun.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=594408
I also found this when I googled for ".38 shot shell loads" from the Firing Line Forums.
It doesn't say how much shot weight they are using in the capsule but the amounts of powder seem like a lot to me. I doubt you'd need over 800 to 900 fps to kill most snakes if using #9 shot. Also the fact that a shot round loaded tight would also need to be reduced quite a bit since there isn't any air gap in the shot shell loaded as per the black powder style. So you'd need to start with half or less for the powder amounts suggested above compared to a shot capsule and work up to a load that gives a soft but firm recoil similar to a wadcutter target round.
Anyhow, as I say, I'm not trying to steer you away from a .22 if that is what you want. But I thought that this may intrest you and show you that there's other options.
Do you reload at all? If so and if you like the idea of owning a .38Spl revolver at some point then a 3 inch snubby K or J frame loaded with some lower power snake killing shot rounds would be an option. And then you'd have a gun which might suit you more at the range or for daily carry. Not saying you should go this route in favour of the .22, but it's an option to consider. Even if you don't want to get into reloading in bulk at this point a small setup to punch out primers and put in new ones and load some shot rounds would not need a lot. In fact with empties that are in good shape which slip in and out of the cylinder easily you would not even need any dies. You'd use a method similar to the videos in this section on loading black powder shot shells. A pin and support block with a metal washer to allow punching out the spent primer. A wood dowel and hardwood or metal block to permit setting the new primer and then pour in a suitable amount of some powder, a felt wad or two, some shot and then cap it with a card stock end. LIkely seal and glue the top cap in place with a coat of nail varnish or some other fast drying lacquer like product.
Given the short distance you'd use such a load over a VERY conservative approach would work well. I'd say maybe 90 to 100 grains worth of a small size shot such as #9 to #11 with a couple of the thin 1/16 felt wads between the shot and some powder. For powder a light charge similar or slightly less than the minimum powder charge for a similar weight bullet of some regular smokeless powder would do fine and should be entirely safe for the gun.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=594408
I also found this when I googled for ".38 shot shell loads" from the Firing Line Forums.
It doesn't say how much shot weight they are using in the capsule but the amounts of powder seem like a lot to me. I doubt you'd need over 800 to 900 fps to kill most snakes if using #9 shot. Also the fact that a shot round loaded tight would also need to be reduced quite a bit since there isn't any air gap in the shot shell loaded as per the black powder style. So you'd need to start with half or less for the powder amounts suggested above compared to a shot capsule and work up to a load that gives a soft but firm recoil similar to a wadcutter target round.
Anyhow, as I say, I'm not trying to steer you away from a .22 if that is what you want. But I thought that this may intrest you and show you that there's other options.
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Mauser lover
Member
BCRider, Thank you for your suggestions, but after hearing some of the feedback from the Taurus Judge users, I do not think that bird shot in rifled firearms is a very good idea (I do not know how short barrels, 1-2 in., would influence this kind of bird shot, .38 Spl. or .357 Rem. Mag., but I am completely unimpressed by .22 LR bird shot) I was thinking, after hearing of old NEF/H&R revolvers in other posts that a 3 or 4 inch R92 would be perfect for me; especially since I do not want to get into reloading. And one other thing, I really do NOT want to only wound a snake that is coiled at my feet with #9-#12 shot; that being said, I do not want to wound a snake with a .22 slug either. I should probably just get a Desert Eagle and blow the snake up completely. By the way, nice tag line.
Remo223, I looked into the Charter guns and their reviews on other websites, and as far as I could tell that gun would have been perfect for me, if nobody had mentioned H&R/NEF guns. Thank you for the suggestion though, I will keep that brand in mind if I do get a .38 snubby.
Remo223, I looked into the Charter guns and their reviews on other websites, and as far as I could tell that gun would have been perfect for me, if nobody had mentioned H&R/NEF guns. Thank you for the suggestion though, I will keep that brand in mind if I do get a .38 snubby.
BCRider
Member
Well, reports from other threads about using shot rounds for snakes seems to suggest that anything of medium or smaller size is dispatched promptly with even a .22 shot round. And keep in mind that you're only talking about 5 to 8 feet distance. So the dispersion produced by the short barrel and the rifling may be extreme but over that distance it'll still be tight enough to do the job nicely. Search out some threads on this aspect so again you're able to figure out which way is best for you. You may not change your mind but at least you'll know that you had more facts to make your decision.
And given that the sights are not set for dealing with such a short distance if you're shooting a .22 bullet you'll want to practice to ensure that you know how much "Kentucky elevation" to use for such close in shots.
Whichever way you go best of luck to you on the finding of a suitable gun for a good price.
And given that the sights are not set for dealing with such a short distance if you're shooting a .22 bullet you'll want to practice to ensure that you know how much "Kentucky elevation" to use for such close in shots.
Whichever way you go best of luck to you on the finding of a suitable gun for a good price.
Mauser lover
Member
What if I encounter a big snake?, or maybe I will put a shotshell in the first chamber and mini-mags in the other seven (leaving the ninth chamber empty while I have it in my pocket).
Vern Humphrey
Member
If you have a modern revolver, there is no need to have an empty chamber.
But there is a need for good sights and a good trigger. You mentioned shooting a snake at your feet. You want to hit the snake, and not your feet.
But there is a need for good sights and a good trigger. You mentioned shooting a snake at your feet. You want to hit the snake, and not your feet.
Kendal Black
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In general I agree about the problems with firing shot out of a rifled bore. However, the single shot .45/.410 pistols have solved this problem with choke attachments. The TC Contender probably costs more money than you want to spend on this, but then there is the Super Comanche, under $200; here is a demonstration: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=997md-aqo-0
Just IMHO and YMMV, but I think a .410 shotshell is better snake medicine than anything you can fire out of a .22.
Ammo expense? You are unlikely to need to shoot a snake anyway. That makes the ammo costs equal.
Just IMHO and YMMV, but I think a .410 shotshell is better snake medicine than anything you can fire out of a .22.
Ammo expense? You are unlikely to need to shoot a snake anyway. That makes the ammo costs equal.
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BCRider
Member
How big do the HARMFUL snakes get in your area? Well... other than the plaid suit wearing variety that inhabit used car lots?
I don't know the real answers for you as not only are there nothing bigger than garter snakes around here but I'm not permited by law to carry firearms of any manner in the usual nature walks that I take which are all within city or municipality bounds. And as far as I know I'm not allowed to carry firearms in our provincial or federal parks either. So it's pretty much all an acedemic thought game for me. I just thought it worth pointing out that you have some options that are worth exploring. I'll leave it to the other members to provide first hand accounts of snakes taken out, size of said crawly critter and how effective the "solution" was for them.
For grins and giggles I'm going to make up some shot rounds for my .38's and try them out at a typical snake range into paper. I'll post pictures of the shot patterns.
Vern Humphrey
Member
I've seen rattlers 5 -6 feet long in Arkansas (but none that big for a long time.) I make up snake shot rounds for my .45 Colt revolvers, but hardly ever carry one. In the woods I'm usually carrying my Colt Woodsman with hollowpoint bulk pack .22s and if I run up on a poisonous snake, that's what I use.
Mauser lover
Member
Vern Humphrey, I hope to see the snake before I am actually standing on it. I should see or hear the snake while my feet are still three feet or more from the snake. Hopefully I will be good enough at "Kentucky elevation" at that time to miss my feet, as big as they are.
Kendal Black, as far as I am concerned, .410 would be far better medicine than .22, however, with the Super Comanche, I would only get one shot, and it does not fit in any pocket that I possess.
"Just IMHO and YMMV" what do those mean anyway, I am not a texter so I am not up to snuff on all of those modern abbreviations. Ammo cost, what if I want to practice? But I guess .410 is not really that expensive.
BCrider, we get good sized rattlers around here, and my family has an orchard so I can carry it on private property. Thanks for the testing.
Vern Humphrey again, do those .22 HPs kill a snake quick enough for them not to strike?
Kendal Black, as far as I am concerned, .410 would be far better medicine than .22, however, with the Super Comanche, I would only get one shot, and it does not fit in any pocket that I possess.
"Just IMHO and YMMV" what do those mean anyway, I am not a texter so I am not up to snuff on all of those modern abbreviations. Ammo cost, what if I want to practice? But I guess .410 is not really that expensive.
BCrider, we get good sized rattlers around here, and my family has an orchard so I can carry it on private property. Thanks for the testing.
Vern Humphrey again, do those .22 HPs kill a snake quick enough for them not to strike?
Vern Humphrey
Member
Yep.
My experience, however, is that you rarely encounter a snake that is about to strike -- and when you do, you usually get bit. Snakes that bite are the ones you don't see -- under a woodpile, in a corner of the barn, and so on.
Most snakes you see are several feet away, and I have killed snakes with everything from a Colt .45 to an 00 buckshot from a .30-06 equipped with a Hammond Game Getter.
Mauser lover
Member
Vern Humphrey, thanks for the, er, good? news. Hope I don't get bit. Thanks.
Kendal Black
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YMMV = "Your mileage may vary."
IMHO = "In my humble opinion"
Here is a pretty thorough netspeak guide, if you're interested: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=370999
While the Comanche pistol is a single shot, and no pocket gun, I place it in the category of being highly adequate for the job in view. A .22 revolver I would rate as merely adequate. The lack of a quick second shot is only important if you miss.
IMHO = "In my humble opinion"
Here is a pretty thorough netspeak guide, if you're interested: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=370999
While the Comanche pistol is a single shot, and no pocket gun, I place it in the category of being highly adequate for the job in view. A .22 revolver I would rate as merely adequate. The lack of a quick second shot is only important if you miss.
Mauser lover
Member
Kendal Black, I just logged on since I remembered something about firearms laws in my state and found that you had responded already. Yes, it is highly adequate for the job, unfortunately, in CA, my state, to my firearms locker's chagrin, has restricted so called "assault weapons." among these "assault weapons" are short shotguns. The Super Comanche and the Taurus Judge and the S&W .410 pistol are classified as short shotguns, and therefore not legal in CA to my knowledge (unless the law has changed, or has been revoked since I last checked). Thanks for clarifying what those abbreviations mean.
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