bikemutt
Member
Wondering what others here might us to clean their cans? The 22 can I just picked up is easy to disassemble but jeez does it collect carbon.
cleaning the can
- Thread starter bikemutt
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I used CLP, gun scrubber and a ton of elbow grease on my 22 aluminum can the first time. That was for the birds, took forever. After that I upgraded to stainless baffles and a rotary tumbler. The upgrade was $99 and the tumbler was $250 or so. Now it's almost work free.
I didn't want to have a can that I wouldn't shoot because it was too much of a hassle.
I didn't want to have a can that I wouldn't shoot because it was too much of a hassle.
Thermactor
member
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Considered using an ultrasonic cleaner?
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bikemutt
Member
I had not, but now I have, thanks. I see Harbor Freight has one for $30 and they have a store 10 minutes from me.
Thermactor
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The $30 cleaner has a tiny cleaning area. I recommend the $77 one (currently marked down from $99). Use a 20% off coupon and its $60. Very happy with mine.
Dave Rishar
Member
For stainless, I like to use "the dip." While it's quick and very effective, it's potentially dangerous, will eat up certain metals, and generates hazardous waste that must be disposed of properly. Research and good work practices are required before going this route.
My Osprey just gets soaked in Ed's Red and then blasted out with brake cleaner, as per the manufacturer's advice. I've thought about getting an ultrasonic cleaner but Silencerco doesn't seem to think that it's necessary, so I'll take their word for it.
My Osprey just gets soaked in Ed's Red and then blasted out with brake cleaner, as per the manufacturer's advice. I've thought about getting an ultrasonic cleaner but Silencerco doesn't seem to think that it's necessary, so I'll take their word for it.
wally
Member
Cans like the Osprey that should only see jacked bullets shot through them don't really need a lot of cleaning.
But .22lr cans are a whole 'nother story! Depending on how much the lead buildup interferes with disassembly, could need cleaning after every 2-300 rounds. That is why I went with the sparrow -- usually good for about 1000 rounds between cleanings.
But .22lr cans are a whole 'nother story! Depending on how much the lead buildup interferes with disassembly, could need cleaning after every 2-300 rounds. That is why I went with the sparrow -- usually good for about 1000 rounds between cleanings.
Captains1911
Member
It might be helpful if you tell us what can you have.
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bikemutt
Member
Huntertown Arms Guardian 22.
The baffles have about 60 rounds of Federal bulk .22lr though them. This is how they look after several cycles in the ultrasonic cleaner in a heated dish soap solution.
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bikemutt
Member
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I purchased the same suppressor last year and picked up this January for $199. I took it out the first time and shot about 200 rounds through it. It was filthy, I assume about as dirty as yours. It took me 2 hours of CLP, gun scrubber and elbow grease to get it almost as good as new. I spent several days looking for an easy cleaning solution on the internet forums. I could not find a good & easy way to clean the aluminum baffles. Tumbling them with stainless media in a wet tumbler would wear them down (or so the consensus believes), a regular tumbler won't do anything but make the black shiny, the dip can't be used on aluminum, etc. Some like the ultrasonic cleaner, but I see you've been down that road.
I was a bit mad at myself for not over-researching this purchase as I do most things. But Huntertown Arms will do an upgrade to your baffles from Aluminum to Stainless for $90 or $99. I emailed them, got the answers I was looking for then finally called. I gave the lady my info and credit card information, then shipped the whole thing up to them via the post office. In about a week a had the whole thing back with stainless baffles.
I know it sucks to have to pay another hundred bucks, but it is what it is. I reload so I went ahead and upgraded to a rotary tumbler to clean it in. I throw the baffles in with Dawn, 5 lbs of stainless pins and leave it alone for several hours. Then I rinse and reassemble. It's totally painless. This solution was another $250, but screw it. If you don't have the extra money to spend or don't need a wet tumbler do some research on "The Dip." It looks like a cheap cleaning solution but has a few drawbacks and will not work for aluminum.
Like I said earlier, I didn't want to have a toy that was so much of a hassle to clean that I wouldn't use it. PM me your email address if you want some before and after pics.
I was a bit mad at myself for not over-researching this purchase as I do most things. But Huntertown Arms will do an upgrade to your baffles from Aluminum to Stainless for $90 or $99. I emailed them, got the answers I was looking for then finally called. I gave the lady my info and credit card information, then shipped the whole thing up to them via the post office. In about a week a had the whole thing back with stainless baffles.
I know it sucks to have to pay another hundred bucks, but it is what it is. I reload so I went ahead and upgraded to a rotary tumbler to clean it in. I throw the baffles in with Dawn, 5 lbs of stainless pins and leave it alone for several hours. Then I rinse and reassemble. It's totally painless. This solution was another $250, but screw it. If you don't have the extra money to spend or don't need a wet tumbler do some research on "The Dip." It looks like a cheap cleaning solution but has a few drawbacks and will not work for aluminum.
Like I said earlier, I didn't want to have a toy that was so much of a hassle to clean that I wouldn't use it. PM me your email address if you want some before and after pics.
Captains1911
Member
Be careful with ultra sonic cleaner, it can damage aluminum if you over do it.
ETA: with raw aluminum you're better off not trying to be too aggressive. An overnight soak in odorless mineral spirits, followed by a nylon brush and maybe plastic scraper of some sort should be enough. You don't need it spotless, just remove the chunks. There's no magic cleaner for raw aluminum unfortunately.
ETA: with raw aluminum you're better off not trying to be too aggressive. An overnight soak in odorless mineral spirits, followed by a nylon brush and maybe plastic scraper of some sort should be enough. You don't need it spotless, just remove the chunks. There's no magic cleaner for raw aluminum unfortunately.
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wally
Member
I hate it when owners manuals are wrong! Hoppes #9 has ammonia in it! which is why it eventually eats up your brass brush and copper fouling comes out green. Read the label or MSDS (ammonia in aqueous solution = ammonium hydroxide), about 3% by weight.
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bikemutt
Member
I think they mean not to use ammonia on the anodized parts, like the end caps and the tube.
Loc n Load
Member
Hoppes #9
Hoppes can be harsh on metal and finishes....if you leave nickeled gun components in it over night....they will not be nickeled in the morning. So it stands to reason that it may damage certain alloys or finishes.
Hoppes can be harsh on metal and finishes....if you leave nickeled gun components in it over night....they will not be nickeled in the morning. So it stands to reason that it may damage certain alloys or finishes.
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bikemutt
Member
I hit the range Thursday with a bud, we both let the 22/45 and 10/22 feed the can real well. Once home I dropped the baffles in Hoppes #9 for 10 minutes or so, then dropped them and the end caps into the ultrasonic cleaner filled with a Dawn solution for 2 x 480 second cycles. At the end I was able to wipe off each baffle to a condition indistinguishable from where it started.
It doesn't look new and it isn't, I'm good with it.
It doesn't look new and it isn't, I'm good with it.
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