I have 4 Semi-Auto's. A SA 1911 Loaded, SA XD 45 Service, HK USPc 45 and a Star B 9mm. When I clean these pistols, I've always just field stripped them, you know, down to the frame, slide, barrel and guide rod. I use a bore snake, bore brush, swabs and a tooth brush. I clean with Hoppes #9 and Hoppes Oil. I've never taken apart the trigger mechanism or the firing pin assembly bascially because I don't know how. I envision springs and things flying everywhere, scares me. I always blow out the excess Hoppes with compressed air before I lube. My question is, should I be tearing down my guns for futher cleaning or is what I'm doing sufficient?
Cleaning the Semi-Auto
- Thread starter Bo
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No, you are OK thus far- just don't over clean your weapons. Sometimes
more damage is done doing this, than actual using the firearm. Too many
times down the bore with a metal rod can [and will] damage the rifling~!
Hoppes No. 9 is OK for cleaning; but something like Break Free C-L-P would
be much better. Its curently used by the U.S. Armed Forces; so give it a
try.
more damage is done doing this, than actual using the firearm. Too many
times down the bore with a metal rod can [and will] damage the rifling~!
Hoppes No. 9 is OK for cleaning; but something like Break Free C-L-P would
be much better. Its curently used by the U.S. Armed Forces; so give it a
try.
Agreed, field stripping and cleaning is sufficient. I confirmed this with my gunsmith when I took my trusty SA 1911 for some custom work. He felt that you could easily mess up more than you fix doing a complete tear down regularly. He tore mine down to show me and the trigger mechanism was quite clean. I bought the gun used and have put well over 1000 rounds through it and that was the first time mine was torn down completely since I've had it and I know the PO and he hadn't torn it down completely for cleaning, either.
I also use Hoppe's 9 as well for most cleanings - Its what my Dad taught me to clean with growing up, and I have used it for the last 40 years. All of my firearms are still like new.
However, I also use Hoppe's 9 Bench Rest Copper Solvent every 500 rounds or so. Shooting FMJ Winchester White Box ammo at the range every week adds up. The regular Hoppe's 9 Solvent (and most other solvents) don't clean the copper fouling out of the barrel sufficiently.
http://www.hoppes.com/products/bench_rest9.html
However, I also use Hoppe's 9 Bench Rest Copper Solvent every 500 rounds or so. Shooting FMJ Winchester White Box ammo at the range every week adds up. The regular Hoppe's 9 Solvent (and most other solvents) don't clean the copper fouling out of the barrel sufficiently.
http://www.hoppes.com/products/bench_rest9.html
I can't believe how few people use Gunzilla from Top Duck products!
I haven't used a bore brush since I started using it a few years ago.
http://www.topduckproducts.com/
I haven't used a bore brush since I started using it a few years ago.
http://www.topduckproducts.com/
al dan
he's right, just do what you are doing. I have glocks, smith, kahrs and I just go to NAPA and buy their high pressure cans of non cholorinated cleaner. Now that stuff will clean where you never thought of getting. It will take all lubrication out of the gun also, so you need to re oil and what ever else you do to your handgun but IMO there is really no need to take the slide down part for part. I can pressure clean the firing pin area in my slide without dissambly by just shooting this cleaner down each opening of the firing pin area, same thing with the extractor area. These new cleaners and the one at NAPA for about $2 is the same as the stuff that you pay $8 for at the gun shops. Works great for me and very fast to..Oh and it has zero effect on plastic to.
he's right, just do what you are doing. I have glocks, smith, kahrs and I just go to NAPA and buy their high pressure cans of non cholorinated cleaner. Now that stuff will clean where you never thought of getting. It will take all lubrication out of the gun also, so you need to re oil and what ever else you do to your handgun but IMO there is really no need to take the slide down part for part. I can pressure clean the firing pin area in my slide without dissambly by just shooting this cleaner down each opening of the firing pin area, same thing with the extractor area. These new cleaners and the one at NAPA for about $2 is the same as the stuff that you pay $8 for at the gun shops. Works great for me and very fast to..Oh and it has zero effect on plastic to.
Unless you are having problems you are doing what is needed. Too many people go overboard on cleaning/lubricating and do more damage than firing will every do.
Another "you're doing fine" vote. Unless they've been dropped into mud or something, detail stripping is not necessary. I've had one gun for ten years with quite a few rounds through it and it has always stayed clean inside with just normal cleaning.
On handguns with firing or trigger mechanisms enclosed and/or retained by the grips (e.g., SIG trigger bars), I like to take the grips off every so often, say every fourth or fifth cleaning, and clean and inspect under there. But your pistols are not like this.
Unless they've been dropped into mud or something, detail stripping is not necessary. I've had one gun for ten years with quite a few rounds through it and it has always stayed clean inside with just normal cleaning.On handguns with firing or trigger mechanisms enclosed and/or retained by the grips (e.g., SIG trigger bars), I like to take the grips off every so often, say every fourth or fifth cleaning, and clean and inspect under there. But your pistols are not like this.
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