Complete this sentence for me, please.

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Moly

LOL!
I love moly discussions since the vast majority of participants have no experience or are relaying anecdotal experience that they heard from a friend of a friend.

One gentleman posted about corrosion. Please show me, scientifically, not what one has "heard", how moly turns to acid and corrodes your barrel?

Moly is not hygroscopic. It neither prevents corrosion, nor causes it. It is a high pressue lubricant, period.

Benchrest shooters pioneered it, and for their purposes, it wasn't a huge success. It was accuracy neutral. It neither helps, nor detracts from accuracy. Benchrest is about accuracy, pure and simple. Since moly didn't help, why bother?

Moly did find a following in both long range and high power for a different reason, more velocity with the same pressure.

I've shot moly for the last 10 years as a high power shooter. As Borg pointed out, several gentlemen here in Texas, high power shooters, started playing with it for service rifle shooting. (I'm a little unsure if shooters here that I know started using it, or David Tubb did, but it really doesn't matter. All are HP shooters and Texans).

Initial claims for moly were pretty sensational, but in my experience not really true. People claimed it increased accuracy, prolonged barrel life, gave easier cleaning and higher velocity. My expereince over 10 years and over 100K rounds were that moly just allowed a velocity increase, with equivalent pressures.

The barrels I favor are all custom, hand lapped tubes, that clean easy, with or without moly. Moly has not proven to me that it prolongs barrel life one bit. It is accuracy neutral.

The one area it does help is with velocity at equal pressures.

When JLK came out with a .224 90 gr. bullet, people started playing with it for 600 yard course of fire and beyond.

When I started playing with the 90 JLK in .223, on bare bullets, with N540, I was able to obtain 2600 fps before I started blowing primers. When I would moly the same lots of 90 JLKs, I could get 2750 fps without blowing primers, albeit with an increase of powder that averaged .5 grs.

With 77 SMKs loaded mag length, I could get 150 fps more velocity than bare bullets without blowing primers, again with .5 to .7 grs. more N540.

That doesn't equate to whole lot of clicks on a 1/4 MOA sight in windy conditions vs. bare bullets, but it is something that the other guy might not have, so I took the added bonus.

Moly is extremely easy to apply, hasn't shown any negatives in 10 years of use, and does give some bonus, so I use it. For the average guy that shoots 100 rds. a year, it's not worth it. For a competitive shooter, that wants to be competitive, it is.

For the guy that claims it is so hard to remove, I have to say he really doesn't know what he is talking about. 2 minutes with Hoppes and JB, I can clean a barrel to bare metal looking through a bore scope. It's simply a coating on either bullets or barrel that one can remove very easily. It does not "weld" to metal, it doesn't chemically bond with the metal, it's just a very thin coating laid down on the metal.
 
MR Green,
I have used Hornady 129 gr molly coated factory loaded ammo in 7 mag and I have FOUND that everything you said SEEMS to be TRUE to me, the main reason i used it was b\c i was just wondering how much cleaner if any it would leave me barrel
 
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