Compressed loads...Need the experts on this.

[The Bushmaster]

On another string we got into compressed powder charges and need people that have first hand experience on loading compressed loads such as safety, problems and any other good information and advice...GO TO IT BOYS

 

[ocabj]

On another string we got into compress powder charges and need people that have first hand experience on loading compressed loads such as safety, problems and any other good information and advice...GO TO IT BOYS

What do you need to know?

I load .223 quite often for the AR and most of my loads are compressed. There isn't a problem with compressed loads. The only reason specific loads are 'compressed' according to the reloading manual is because some powders require an amount to achieve a specific pressure which just happens to maximize the volume of a case.

As always with any new powder (type and/or lot), you should always start at around 10% below advertised maximum and work up to the desired velocity and with out exceeding maximum pressure. Watch for signs (stiff bolt, cratered primers, etc).

Some people prefer to use powders that tend to fill up the case for a specific cartridge since they feel it allows for a more consistent burn.

The only problem I have with compressed loads is trying to seat a bullet. If you ever load .223 with extruded/stick powders, you'll know what I mean. While I do not own one, I hear that the long tube funnels for dropping powder in a case helps to get the powder packed in better.

 

[bogie]

Best way to do it is to use a REALLY long drop tube, and trickle the powder SLOWLY.

 

[Ol` Joe]

Compressed loads that you find in manuals are safe to load IF you work up to them. The slower powders can be loaded in some cases to a point no more will fit and pressure will still be below max. The most common problem with compressed loads (listed as safe in a manual) is when the bullet starts backing out of the case after it has set, and trying to get the full charge in the case. The suggestion noted above for useing a drop tube is good advice and with some charges a tap or two of the case as you fill it will also help.
I`ve used a compressed charges in my 30-06 and 270 with very good results but I prefer to find a load that fills the case about 85-90% full and has the bullet just touching / pushing on the charge if possible instead of heavy compressed loads. I seem to get a little better accuracy and more consistant velocity with them loaded this way, but that could be just me.

 

[Bullet]

You might want more neck tension too.

 

[djl4570]

On another string we got into compressed powder charges and need people that have first hand experience on loading compressed loads such as safety, problems and any other good information and advice...GO TO IT BOYS

Some powders respond very well to compressed loads. H4227, H322, Varget and H4350 have all responded very well to compressed loads in the appropriate cartridge and with the appropriate bullet weight. Magnum pistol powders like H110 or AA#9 need to be compressed or they don't work very well.

I get excellent results with slightly compressed loads of Varget in .45-70, and .308 Win. Compression is a good thing when loading H4350 in .30-06, .244 Rem Ackley and .375 H&H for bolt actions and compressed charges of H4227 work very well in heavy .45 Colt loads.

I have had problems with a couple of powders when I approached compressed loads. AA2520 and AA2700 are excellent ball powders that were very finicky about loading density. At high loading densities just short of compressed loads in .308 the burn rate would cause pressure spikes that would flow brass back into the bolt face and cause primers to fall out of the primer pocket. And I was still 2 full grains shy of the published maximums. I had similar problems loading 2700 in .30-06.

So to answer your inquiry, compressed loads work with some powder / cartridge / bullet weight combinations but not others. All of the rifle powders that compressed well for me were extruded.

 

[redneck2]

All

of the rifle powders that compressed well for me were extruded.

Wonder why ball pistol powders (H-110/WW 296) can be compressed but not rifle powder??

 

[1911 guy]

Compressed is O.K. if stated in manual.

I reload some thick walled cases for my .308 and use Varget, a stick powder that uses a lot of volume. Compressed load, too. The reason I mention thick walled cases is because if you compress a charge that is not supposed to be, ie bullet setback or seating deeper than min OAL you can do bad things when the powder is compressed. The pressure multiplies in varying degrees when compressed. Some a lot, some not much, some have a big difference when compressed a little or a lot. The upshot is that if your manual(s) specify a compressed charge, have at it but be watchful to never seat shorter than the min OAL.

 

[Lennyjoe]

I use a slightly compressed load of IMR 4530 with 165gr Gamekings in my -06 and have not had any problems whatsoever. I also do not crimp the case with these bullets/powder combo's. The C.O.L. does not change either after loading. I set my bullet .010 off the lands and its a very accurate load.

Wanna talk about compressed? Try loading a LC 5.56 brass with a full load of Varget

 

[The Bushmaster]

See BsChoy...The best site on the net...Ask a reasonable question and get reasonable and easily understandable answers...Thanks a bunch guys...Keep-em comin'...

 

[Crosshair]

I use 6.8 grains of Blue Dot powder for 38 Special 158 grain oads and I have to load the bullet very deep to get good powder ignition. From my experience, Blue Dot powder needs to be loaded with little to no airspace in the case to ignite fully.

 

[Lennyjoe]

Agree with the Blue Dot issue. When I loaded 10MM rounds with Blue Dot on the lower end I wouldn't get a good burn. Had some flakes left in the barrel unburnt. As I got to the max load it cleaned up pretty good.

Blue Dot is what I use now for stout range loads. 800X is my fav for powerful field loads with 200gr XTP's.

 

[BsChoy]

See BsChoy...The best site on the net...Ask a reasonable question and get reasonable and easily understandable answers...Thanks a bunch guys...Keep-em comin'...

you are so right Bushmaster...this is the most info I have gotten for some time in one place with one question...thank you gentlemen

 

[Poodleshooter]

I've done it in .223 with ball and stick powders,and I've done it in the 7mm RemMag using military surplus WC872. That powder is so slow,that in order to get normal 7mmRM velocities, you have to compress. Compression is like any other loading at the top of the listed maximums-do it carefully and in small increments.
I use the vibration from my brass tumbler to pack in the powder for the 7mmRM loads. The vibrations settles the powder in,much as a drop tube does.

 

[Sunray]

The load I have used for .30 carbine is compressed. 14.5 grains of IMR4227 and a 110 grain HP. No crimp. No special techniques either. Just put in the powder and then the bullet. No fuss. No bother. It's never caused me any grief of any kind. Makes a very serious 'BARK' sound too. I'm not sure whether I like the sound or the accuracy better.
Follow your manual religiously and you shouldn't have any problems.

 

[Winger Ed.]

I've got one case I load compressed. Its a old Sears (model 70).243. I can't remember the weight of IMR 4831 off the top of my head, but I use a regular powder funnel after weighing out the charge.

Holding my funnel on the mouth of the case with one hand, I dump the powder in, then just thump on the case with the other until the powder level goes below the case mouth. Then seat either the little 70gr HP, or 90grain Partitions like normal, with no crimp.

I haven't clocked the rounds, but they respectively shoot to almost one hole, go through both sides of a deer at 75-100 yards, and darn near don't even put a flat spot on the primers.