Rail Driver
Member
I decided to paint the ol' girl today... High Heat Enamel... Tell me what you think, and show off your own paint jobs!
Converted Saiga 7.62x39
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Rail Driver
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Wow, nobody else digs the black and white or has a custom paint job they've done?
Ranger30-06
Member
Wow I really like that, but I probably would have reversed what you did and painted the furniture so that if I ever wanted to change it back to black, I could.
I might do something like that with my Saiga .308, but I'm not completely sure I want to jump right into it. How long did it take you to do yours? And where did you get the paint?
Ps. Don't get to upset if your thread gets lost. Sometimes they just go up at the wrong time
I might do something like that with my Saiga .308, but I'm not completely sure I want to jump right into it. How long did it take you to do yours? And where did you get the paint?
Ps. Don't get to upset if your thread gets lost. Sometimes they just go up at the wrong time
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Rail Driver
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Oh, I know all about threads getting lost, this is a pretty high traffic forum.
It didn't take long at all to paint, probably an hour total with most of that time being prep (taping off areas, cleaning and drying it, etc).
Make sure you let it dry at least a few hours, but preferably 24 hours before re-assembly.
I got the paint at Walmart. I used Rustoleum BBQ paint (my walmart has flat black, gloss black and white).
You can also use engine enamel with similar results and a larger color selection.
It's much easier to get the paint off the receiver and barrel than the rails, if I decide to go back to black.
It didn't take long at all to paint, probably an hour total with most of that time being prep (taping off areas, cleaning and drying it, etc).
Make sure you let it dry at least a few hours, but preferably 24 hours before re-assembly.
I got the paint at Walmart. I used Rustoleum BBQ paint (my walmart has flat black, gloss black and white).
You can also use engine enamel with similar results and a larger color selection.
It's much easier to get the paint off the receiver and barrel than the rails, if I decide to go back to black.
Ranger30-06
Member
So I guess all your using is high temp enamel? Wow okay I didn't know it could be that easy!
Hmmmmm white camo Saiga, here I come!
ZCORR Jay
Member
That looks pretty awesome. It's cool to see something out of the ordinary.
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Rail Driver
Member
It's white. Tough to get good pics with my crappy cell phone camera. I've got a buddy with a much nicer camera, though, and I'll be getting pictures taken the next time he's around when the light is good.
I'm looking for a set of white grip scales (1911 Gov't size) to go on it to complete the color scheme. I also need to paint the scope rings still, I just didn't feel like taking them off ... 4 screws per ring (split rings).
Ranger30-06 said:
It's very easy, just make sure you have a plan and plenty of tape (masking tape works best, but on this one I used duct tape). Make sure you tape off the receiver rails and the holes in the receiver or you'll end up with paint all inside the receiver... Not a big deal, but it'll make the action a little sticky at first if you get paint on the bolt rails. It wears off quickly, so it's not a big deal if you don't (I didn't tape off the inside of the receiver this time though I did last time). Also wash the gun with some kind of degreaser (I like dishsoap because it doesn't hurt any plastics but cuts the grease quickly... just dry the gun well in the sun or with a hair dryer on high before painting)
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Rail Driver
Member
That's nice looking adam. I think I might do something with a snakeskin texture like you did only with silver or gray over the white.
I did the same thing on the draco I had awhile back
I did the same thing on the draco I had awhile back
Double Vision
Member
Nice job!
1stmarine
Member
Nice looking goodies guys! I want to paint one of mine but I have not decided.
I think I need a good black duracoat base and then go with the patterns.
The key with duracoat is preping well right? I am not a huge fun of sanding but whatever it takes. I do believe that when done it must be done properly so the coating doesn't fall off.
Any advice to make it easier, let me know.
I think I need a good black duracoat base and then go with the patterns.
The key with duracoat is preping well right? I am not a huge fun of sanding but whatever it takes. I do believe that when done it must be done properly so the coating doesn't fall off.
Any advice to make it easier, let me know.
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Rail Driver
Member
If you're going with duracoat, I'd recommend getting the rifle sandblasted prior to doing it. Also, don't bake it in your wife/girlfriend's oven... She'll get mad and it'll make your food taste funny for awhile.
1stmarine
Member
Is there an advantage on the heat enamel?
Thanks.
Thanks.
maskedman504
Member
If you are happy with it, then it is perfect!
Just not my taste.
Just not my taste.
Dr.Mall Ninja
Member
I like both of them, painting is kinda cool it changes them from being just another ak...
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Rail Driver
Member
The high heat enamel is more durable in my experience than regular paint. I think it's because of whatever they put into the paint that causes it to be more heat resistant. I'm not sure why, but it has definitely shown to be more durable than regular krylon or rustoleum paint (and MUCH better than the cheap 98cent cans of flat black and flat white that walmart sells)
Z-Michigan
Member
I've tried both BBQ paint and engine paint. The BBQ paint is easier to find in a matte black, but the engine paint (Duplicolor) seems to be more resistant to chemicals and abrasion, and is still good up to 500 degrees - hotter than anything on my rifle is going to get.
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Rail Driver, thanks. Doing the style of camouflage that I did is very easy. This video really simplifies it and demonstrates how to do my favorite form of rifle camo:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnRq1_-Y6GY&feature=related
I love the fact that this guy paints his SCAR like it's just any old rifle. haha
As for the kind of paint to use, I would recommend that one take a look at Aluma-Hyde II when considering options. It takes some time to cure, but is durable as hell once set. I've heard people complain about it, but prep is the key.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnRq1_-Y6GY&feature=related
I love the fact that this guy paints his SCAR like it's just any old rifle. haha
As for the kind of paint to use, I would recommend that one take a look at Aluma-Hyde II when considering options. It takes some time to cure, but is durable as hell once set. I've heard people complain about it, but prep is the key.
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Rail Driver
Member
Provided that my research tells me the alumahyde will work on steel or other surfaces too, I may end up using that for my Saiga 12 when I figure out just what I want to do to it. (right now it's all black, though I used some flat black BBQ paint on the chaos rail because I had to cut it to fit, and remove the front sight the guy welded onto it).
ScrapMetalSlug
Member
Nice looking rifles. Has anyone been able to keep paint from rubbing off where the safety lever moves? It is kind of hard to tell from the pics, but all the paint jobs I have done have had paint rub off where the safety lever moves, and I normally use the high-temp BBQ paint.
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Rail Driver
Member
I've got the rub marks. It can be avoided by slightly "tweaking" the safety so the nub there only JUST rides the paint, but it's not a big deal to me. It gives me an excuse to pick a different color next year
Ranger30-06
Member
Finally got around to painting the furniture on mine! The high heat enamel worked extremely well, and it is definitely very durable. I also used the Crayon/hairdryer/credit card trick to fill in the "Safe" and "Fire" selector spots. I chose forest green because it's a bit more natural to the area I live in. Tell me what you guys think!
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