cooked pietta 1858

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I was thinking asbout this today and I se others were also.

I believe denster and sltm1 are right - 500 Degrees F ( and a slow cool away from circulating Air ) would not likely meaningfully detract from any of the intended properties of the Revolver's Steel components, except, maybe to weaken or alter the set of the Springs, and, one could tell easily enough, if it did.


Might have even improved the Blueing a little bit, too..!


Anyway, aftert that warm-up...might be a good idea to re-lube things...
 
The OP may do a "nonscientific" observation of the not blued (in the white) parts - bolt, hand, bolt and trigger spring - if they have some color on them - violet or blue, then he might done it bad (only for the heat treated parts). But if there is no coloration at all or just a slight yellow color, in my opinion, there is nothing to worry about.

Boris
 
I'm glad there are some people on here saying the gun isn't ruined.






....mostly, I want to see what happens if he shoots it. From a rest. Remotely.
 
Oh thank you, thank you.:D I need a new part anyway to replace the broken one.
It was the little spring that is up near the hammer attached to some other part.
You all probably know what it's called,but I don't. I think I'll get the parts kit from cabelas. The gun was catching and not cocking fully. I couldn't get the hammer back and then it would give and the cylinder would turn into place. It was like the cylinder stop was catching on the cylinder and wouldn't let it turn and then it would give and let it. I looked inside and there was a lot of wear on the knob on the right ,as you shoot, side of the hammer. That little spring seemed bent and when I tried to bend it back it snapped off. This wasn't exactly in the course of regular cocking but when I wrote that I hadn't thought about for months and just remembered something broke somewhere.A spring should have some give though to be any good. Anyway I took out the part the spring broke off of and the cylinder still has the same problem. It will cock if you point it at the ceiling but the cylinder doesn't turn.A new parts kit will fix all my problems and I will be able to make noise and smoke once again!!! Thanks. The guy who cooked his gun.:):D:):):cool::D
 
OP, it would have been good for you to have asked that question BEFORE baking your pistol.
 
Guys, Gun barrels are made of Chrome Moly or 41xx that is to 26 - 32 Rockwell. The 500 Degrees would not effected the Chrome Moly like it would a tool steel. Gun parts are not normally hardened. He didn't hurt his gun in anyway. Gun powder and the gases in a gun exceed 3000 plus degrees. Sulfur vaporizes at 900 degrees. The normal operations of the gun exceed the 500 degrees it was exposed to.
If you ever seen them solder a gun sight on a gun. They use an induction heating it heats the sight and barrel up to 1500 degrees (bright red).
 
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I had a .22 Ruger pistol given to me that was ''ruined'' in a fire. The grips and springs were replaced, and I shot that little pistol for 20 years before someone swapped me out of it.
 
I'm thinking two things: if in doubt don't use the gun. In fact, throw it out rather than put it on display so 50 years later when someone ends up with it and says, "hey, let's load this thing and shoot it" you can prevent a disaster. Otherwise, I would get a new cylinder and figure if the gun has lost some strength even a brass framed Remington is plenty strong for BP use. I can't imagine the frame getting softer than brass. Another thing would be to discretely touch various parts with a file and see if they are softer than on an untainted gun. BP revolvers are made of much softer steel than for smokeless guns so I'm not sure how much chrome moly steel is used in them. My '06 barrel is whole a lot harder than any of my C&Bs. Just some random thoughts. I am not a gunsmith nor a metallurgist so don't give my opinion a whole lot of weight.
 
IIRC, the majority of the parts in BP guns are made of low carbon steel. You can't harden or embrittle it by heating it to 500 degrees. Can't anneal it either, unless it has been work hardened. About the only way to through harden low carbon steel is to use a "super quench". Even that will require heating the parts up about 3 times as high as his revolver got.
My bet would have been that the hand spring was what failed, and it was.
It could have had a small crack in it that grew as the metal exanded.
Hard to tell without examining the part with a microscope.
Plus, thin springs like that are notorious for being hard to properly temper.

Just remember, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
 
And, from now on, get yourself some Ballistol or Hoppe's #9 BP solvent to clean your guns and stay away from both the freakin' water and the oven. With all of the better ways to clean your piece than water out there, I still don't understand why people insist on putzing around with it. Lay off the water, stay away from the oven and you'll be all the happier for it, I quarantee!
 
cooked but not damaged 1858

Thanks everybody who posted their opinion. They are all appreciated. I'll oder those parts and go back to shooting.
 
And, from now on, get yourself some Ballistol or Hoppe's #9 BP solvent to clean your guns and stay away from both the freakin' water and the oven. With all of the better ways to clean your piece than water out there, I still don't understand why people insist on putzing around with it. Lay off the water, stay away from the oven and you'll be all the happier for it, I quarantee!
Click to expand...
Uhhh, no. Hoppe's makes a hell of a mess with BP. BTDT. I use Windex. Afterwards, warm it and oil 'em up.
 
A lot of BP flint shooters over on the ALR website like Hoppes #9 Plus BP Solvent and Patch Lube as a patch lube and report shooting many accurate shots when using it without wiping.
It has undergone some formula changes but I've found that the older original #9 Plus is a great solvent for a variety of stubborn substitute powder residues.
But I haven't tried the new formula yet.

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=1562.0

roundball said:
IMO, Hoppes No9 PLUS BP Solvent and Patch Lube is the best thing since sliced bread for range work where many shots are taken, and particularly excellent in dry, low humidity conditions...50 shots, no wiping between shots, and barely a trace of color comes out in the bucket of hot water.
Click to expand...

Daryl said:
Hoppe's #9 plus is the next best thing I've used to LHV as a hunting lube.
Click to expand...

Harnic said:
Hoppes #9 Plus is GREAT!!!
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=9671.msg91401#msg91401

timM said:
I had discontinued the use of water as a cleaning agent in my BP rifles many years ago. I have used Hoppes 9 ever since with no regret. I use a proper fitting jag with either cotton or flannel patches. When the bore is clean I coat it with RIG. I too can't help but inspect the bore the next day, and still do. I don't remember ever having to re-clean. I am very confident with my cleaning procedure, petroleum products and all.

My shooting interest is only satisfied with very accurate rifles and the maintenance of that accuracy.

I have enjoyed following the “cold water” cleaning topic. I had also noticed “Flash Rusting” with the use of boiling water as a bore flush. I also attribute the demise of a really good barrel to the use of boiling water. I believe I noticed a slow growth in slight porosity to the interior of the barrel over a period of time. Respectfully, tim
Click to expand...

Here's someone who took 25 shots with Hoppes #9 Plus without wiping:

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=9398.0
 
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I tend to agree with denster but hell ill give you 50 bucks for it lol

I realy dont know what charactaristics the steel used in these pietas is but having done a bit of old time blacksmithing i doubt very much that you have
brittled it or hardened it if anything you may have tempered it a little.

but if you have to ask i woud say shelve or take it to a qualified gunsmith and tell him what you did lol

personally aprox 100 deg c (hot to boiling water) followed by a blow out with the lungs or preferably an air compressor is all you should ever need.
 
Some of the posts in this thread reminded me of the following poster:

exercise.png

I also like to cook my revolvers after a good hot bath. Except, I set the oven to the lowest setting and the revolver sits in the oven for 20 minutes with the oven on then sits in the oven cooling off with the door open for another 20 minutes.

Yeah, its your hand spring that broke off on the hand. Its my understanding that the hand spring is a common item to break. I think it's just coincidence that it broke after your baking experiment.
 
Baking to 500F would have done in all the springs so I'm not surprised that the hand spring snapped or just bent and broke. It will also have tempered the trigger sear and the sear hook on the hammer so that they MAY be too soft to live long at this point. Buy the new kit of bits from Cabela's and you'll be back in business on all counts.
 
(Quote)"Baking to 500F would have done in all the springs so I'm not surprised that the hand spring snapped or just bent and broke. It will also have tempered the trigger sear and the sear hook on the hammer so that they MAY be too soft to live long at this point. Buy the new kit of bits from Cabela's and you'll be back in business on all counts."

One more time. No damage done. Spring temper is over 700degF so 500 is not going to do in the springs it is also not enough to materially effect the trigger or hammer.
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